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Hi, Joe you may have fried the ECM while trying to jump it from the Jeep otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Check for engine trouble codes.
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There should be a small white ceramic block on the firewall - this component cuts the battery voltage from 12 to 9 volts for the coil and ignition system. It has 4 wires and is called a ballast resistor. You may need a book with the wiring diagram to be able to test it. You should have battery voltage going in and something like 9 volts coming out. You can also run a wire with a fuse from the battery to the positive side of the coil to check the system. Disconnect the factory wire from the coil first.
If you have a new battery and it went dead that quickly I would check the charging system on the mower engine. Many of them use a voltage regulator and if it goes bad it will not properly charge the battery. Get the engine running (do not engage the PTO) and use a multimeter set on DC voltage. Place the multimeter leads on the battery and you should see approximately 13-14 volts DC at the battery terminals when it is running. If less then that then it's a problem with the charging system and further tests would be needed to figure out if it is a bad regulator or charging coil.
Check your battery connections on the battery and the other ends where they go the ground will go to the engine block and the positive to a solenoid make sure all of this is tight and has no corrosion. This is just a loose wiring problem
Hi, Mlyndon and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
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yea got get you more troubles just check the alternator is charging well and no battery light on dashboard it indicate the bad alternator monitor your battery if it got old and cannot hold the charge any more you said when you used another one your car turned on