Question about Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator with Adjusta Cube Ice Maker

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I have a 4 year old Kenmore top freezer refrigerator. the defrost function is malfunctioning. the freezer frosts up, clogs the air vents, the fan runs nonstop, and everything melts. I've turned off the refrigerator and melted the ice and cleared the vents, but of course the problem just reoccurs, more quickly each time. i'm calling Sears for a repair ticket, but I am curious what the problem might be, and if it would be covered under their 5 year warranty.

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Should be covered alright. Sounds like the defrost therostat is open. Is you defrost heater coming on. It doesn't seam like it is. As you frig runs it's cycle it will turn off the compressor every hour or so and the timer will turn on the heater in your freezer to defrost. Do you feel this heater coming on. If you therostate mounted on the defrost ellement fails to close then your heater will not come on and ice will build up in you freezer. These thermostates seam to be failing more and more these days. I've replaced mine 3 times over the last few years.

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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We have a Kenmore top freezer (no ice maker) refridgerator less than a year old. The frige part is warm while the freezer is frozen. Turns out the vents on the top of the fridge were clogged w ice. We...


Hello,

Very likely the vents are freezing due to the defrost drain is blocked so instead of the water from the defrost draining into the pan on the bottom as its supposed to its pooling in the freezer and freezing over the air vents.
This tip i wrote will help ya to clear the drain. http://www.fixya.com/support/r9945686-check_when_refrig_cools_ok_but_leaks


GENE

Sep 14, 2011 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a frig model 3639656686 the freezer works great. the frig stays warm. I have replaced the control and stat for the self defrosting unit the only other thing is the heater. The coil part will freeze...


Hello,
A refrigerator not cold enough is a hassle, because you are at risk of spoiling the foods you store in there. Most often, this problem is caused by something easy to fix. 1. Faulty Door Gaskets
The door gaskets in a refrigerator ensure a sealed closure every time you shut the door. Torn or loose gaskets on the door of the refrigerator can result in a leak in the cold air. As a result, the refrigerator is warmer. Repetitive and frequent opening and closing of the refrigerator is also a possible cause, because the warm air from outside replaces the cold air in the refrigerator every time you open it. 2. Dirty Condenser Coils
Dirty condenser coils can result in improper functioning of the refrigerator. These coils are located on the back or the underside of refrigerators. If you find this to be the cause of the problem, unplug the refrigerator before you attempt any cleaning. 3. Frost-free Feature not Working
If the frost-free feature fails, it causes a buildup of frost around the evaporator coils in the freezer. This causes a malfunctioning of the evaporator fan that blows cold air around. The fan can also be damaged if it hits the frost. 4. Faulty or Incorrect Temperature Control
A faulty thermostat can lead to a refrigerator that is not maintaining the desired coldness. Check for this problem and also ensure that the temperature is set to the correct level. Normally, refrigerators are set to a temperature of about 0°C, whereas the freezer sections are around -17°C. 5. Inadequate Air Flow inside Refrigerator
A refrigerator that is loaded with too many food items can fail to maintain an adequate level of coolness across all the items kept in it. The surface items tend to be colder, and the items underneath do not become as cold. A refrigerator that has very few items in it can also fail to function efficiently. Try to ensure that your refrigerator has enough food in it at all times, but is not so loaded that the air flow gets constricted. 6. Vents between Freezer and Refrigerator Clogged
The vents between the freezer and refrigerating section blow cold air from the freezer across to the refrigerator. If these vents are clogged with ice, the air is blocked and the refrigerator does not cool down. If this is the case, you can unplug the refrigerator, wait for the ice to melt and then connect it back to the power supply. 7. Faulty Door Switch
The door switch is found on the bottom of refrigerator doors. It turns off the light in the refrigerator and resumes cooling action when you close the door. If this switch is not functioning properly, the refrigerator will not be cold and it will also be affected by the heat of the interior light. 8. Refrigerant Leak
A refrigerant leak is very unlikely. This problem can cause malfunctioning of your refrigerator. If you suspect this to be the cause, contact a service technician.
Hope this will help out....

Aug 27, 2011 | Kenmore Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

The freezer has ice on the vents and the refrigerator is not cooling properly (54degrees).


check to make sure the fan in the freezer section is working as this pushes air into the refrigerator section... also check to see if there is frost on back panel of freezer if so you may have either the fan not working or a defrost problem... will require that you remove freezer shelves and back panel of freezer on the inside of unit... you will see the fan, a heater at the bottom of coils ,and defrost thermostat attached to the coil usually toward the top side ... check the defrost thermostat with a meter for contuinity while it has ice on it as it closes at very cold temps... remove wires from heater and thaw out coul with a hair dryer now that you have tested defrost thermostat you can thaw out and check heater for contuinity... if both good then you have a bad defrost timer... if the unit is not froze up in back panel of freezer and fan is functioning properly. then possible unit has developed a leak... not sure what vents you are referring to that have ice on but if it is what i think your describing frost/ice on back panel of freezer or between freezer and refrigerator area then either a fan has failed or you have a defrost issue...good luck to you

Jan 27, 2011 | Kenmore 56539 / 56532 / 5653 / 656534 Side...

1 Answer

Freezer is cold, but fridge isn't cooling, cleaned the coils underneath and the port between the freezer and fridge is clear of ice


Hello,

All of the cooling in refrigerators is normally done in the freezer compartment. A fan circulates cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment to cool it. Most likely this fan has quit working.
Also note that,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. mostly, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since the unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.Hope this helpout , Good luck

Aug 02, 2010 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...

2 Answers

My top freezer works but the refrigerator is not cooling


Hello,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.


Hope this helpout

Aug 01, 2010 | Kenmore 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Freezer & fridge not cold enough, frost in freezer


Refrigerator or freezer is not cold enough
* Check the temperature setting
* Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or freezer
* Check for air flow restrictions in vents
* Test the temperature control
* Clean the condensor coils
* Check the door seals
* Test the door switch
* Test defrost heater
* Test defrost timer
* Test evaporator fan
* Check for a clogged drain tube
* Check for refrigerant leak

Mar 31, 2010 | Whirlpool 21.0 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free...

1 Answer

Model FCD-123 Frigidaire malfunction


2 possible issues .evaporator fan motor is not working.you should be able to hear it in freezer.auto defrost is not working and vents are clogged with ice.look for ice/frost buildup on freezer wall///floor

Jun 25, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Refrigerator warm, freezer is fine.


Hi: It is either the defrost heater (most likely) or the defrost timer. The airway to the fresh food is clogged with frost. I doubt your freezer is packed as you could put your hand on the vent. If you block the vents this can cause the problem also. Check the defrost heater and replace if necessary. It is a wire coil in a glass tube. if the coil is broken it is bad. Look at your parts list or on line at Sears Parts. to find out where it is. I hope this helps, Jeff

Jun 01, 2009 | Hotpoint  16.6 Cu. Ft. Top-Freezer...

1 Answer

Fridge freezer


  • Check the temperature setting
  • Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or freezer
  • Check for air flow restrictions in vents
  • Test the temperature control
  • Clean the condensor coils
  • Check the door seals
  • Test the door switch
  • Test defrost heater
  • Test defrost timer
  • Test evaporator fan
  • Check for a clogged drain tube
  • Check for refrigerant leak

Sep 23, 2008 | Engel Freezer 22 Qt. Fridge/Freezer

2 Answers

Refridgerator not very cold


It could be some many things, to save time let me give you this check list:
Do what you feel qualified to do.

If you found this helpful please Vote. Good Luck!

Mar 04, 2008 | Kenmore 64823 Top Freezer Refrigerator

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