Question about Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air Conditioner
BUT THE HOT LINES DONT MAKE IT INTO THE HOUSES EVAPORATOR COIL BECAUSE ITS COOL TO THE TOUCH. IN THE CONDENSER THEIR ARE RED YELLOW AND GREEN LEDS AND THE RED AND YELLOW BLINK RAPIDLY FOR A SEC AND THE GREEN LED BLINKS 11 TIMES . HELP.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like it could be a very weak run capacitor on the blower motor. Run capacitors are sized specifically to the needs of the motor. When a run cap gets weak, the motor trys to compensate for it by drawing more power. More power draw = more heat in the motor, then the motor will overheat and shut off to protect itself. When the motor cools off it will automatically restart and run until it overheats again. Keep in mind that I am a technician that normally diagnoses equipment in a hands on manner. There are many practices and concepts that transcend all air conditioning systems but it is a constantly evolving industry. I live in south eastern WA and I don't see Amana units except as window units. It is possible to have something else causing this problem (faulty thermostat, failing thermal relay(if used), problem with electronic controls(if used)) there are a lot of potential variables
Posted on Jul 02, 2008
Capacitor, dirty condencer coil causing the motor amps to run too high. But most likely worn bearing on blade side of motor causing it to pull to one side causing it to over heat and shut down. Sleve bearings should have no side play.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
be aware that not repairing this asap that you are causing yourself more problems First I would change out the fan capacitor and see if this could be the problem. Secondly if the capacitor isn,t the problem change out the motor . By continuing to allow the system to cycle like this the compressor will take a dive on you costing more . Good Luck
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
Testimonial: "Yes, it's dual run capacitor problem. I used a stick to spin the fan blades and it starts to slowly spin and up to normal speed, so motor is good."
check to see if the flame rod tip is in the flame(like the hot junction on a thermocouple). the pressure switches are a normally closed switch and a blocked flue could cause them to open. the circuit board should run through the safety switches and check them before the gas is opened at the valve. also the drain lines that you see at the inducer fan should be free of condensation but if the inducer fan has condensation in it, it will open the airflow safety switch. you will hear the crackling noise from the fan. also there should be a trap below the fan that should be full of water to keep the fan from pulling air from the wrong place. I would not suspect the board at this point
Posted on Dec 15, 2009
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