Question about Roketa 150cc cheap Scooters

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Roketa Bali 150 not charging

I have a Roketa Bali 150cc scooter. I changed out my start button A and then I started it and noticed the ammeter read 9 and when I rev it up the ammeter may go up to 10 it does not seem to be charging the turn signals go on but do not flash the brake lights do not go and the headlight is very dim. Before I changed the button the ammeter would read 12 and when I ran it would read 13 so I don't think it is charging Can you help?

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  • Roketa Master
  • 40,028 Answers

Hi, Brucep63 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Roketa Bali 250 Battery not charging
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
http://www.roketapartsdept.com/
Roketa bali 150 Owner Manual

Posted on Jul 05, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: 150CC Roketa Scooter

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On most versions of Roketa 150cc engines, the choke is automatic and electrically driven..  It is integrated with the carburetor.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

plaztiksr4me
  • 154 Answers

SOURCE: Chinese Motorscooter Rear Disc Brake Dragging Roketa Bali 150cc.

sorry if its japanese there kits are over there unless you know someone that can speak it i dont know how to find one i would check ebay or amazon.com other than thet you gotta put out the dough.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

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The six pin plug from the bike shows all pins shorted to ground. This on the headlights. I have a 2008 Roketa 250. Also I cannot switch from lo to hi.


Hi, David for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Roketa, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Jim and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
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19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
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21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
22. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
engine cranks spark but still no start
The Ultimate GY6 Starter Ignition Troubleshooting Tutorial
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
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Chinese Junk I am sorry to say. All made as cheaply as possible.

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

On most versions of Roketa 150cc engines, the choke is automatic and electrically driven..  It is integrated with the carburetor.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

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