I coated my floors on 01/13/16, between 0000 hours and 0230 hours. The floor is still tacky. It is now 01/18/16 at 2345 hours. I need help. I have to get back in house and still need a second coat.

As the term suggests, it refers to epoxy flooring used for industrial or commercial purposes. Epoxy floorings have been gaining popularity recently, not just in residential places but in businesses and big establishments as well. Car showrooms, warehouses, pharmaceuticals, and food and beverage plants are just some of the industries that benefit the most from epoxy floors.

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factors for drying paint --drying time will take longer when using oil based ,high humidity,cool temperature, thick coat

The simplest way to put a shine on old wood floor is refinishing. The advantage of hardwood flooring is this. Few years after installation you can refinish the floor and then you will get a band new look. Well, while doing hardwood floor refinishing apply water-based coat and get wet look floor.

you did not provide info on the type of the paint and what surface it will be used on - there is difference between the floor, desk, wall and car body... all are flat surface but adhesion and work of the paint differs.

depending on the pre-existing paint, but you need always to "key-in" using 120 grit paper or 150 grit screen.

if paints are of same type, then paint in - if these are two different paints, you need to strip or isolate old paint, and then use new paint.

Depending on the size of the room you should use a floor sander or a buffer with a abrasive pad to smooth the serface to your liking

You're probably already done with your project by now, but you should wait at least 24 hours, lightly sand, and wipe surface with acetone and a microfiber towel before applying a second coat.

none rubber backed carpet , clean off the floor and spray or a can of glue and coat both after shaping ! cracks in gel coat need grinding out and filling with gel coat repair filler then paint with 2 pack marine under coat paint then top coat !

Something like this ?

Epoxy Floor Coating

This will dependa litlle on the type of Polyurathane that was originaly put down - single pack or two pack and if you have done any type of upkeep to it in the mean time. Some people like to wax there floors to give them shine and a deadly slip factor, if you have waxed your floor you need to remove this wax before youo go any further. Talk to a local chemical supplier to find a wax remover. If you have not waxed your floor this makes it easy.

Wash the floor with a solvent cleaner that contains no waxs or soaps - I use mineral Turpentine on clean rags.

Sand the floor with a hand sander (orbital, vibrating or belt your choice, I prefer to use a square vibrating sander or 8" Orbital) - you do not need a floor sander unless you want to remove all your PU and get back to bear timber. The process of sanding is designed to rough up the whole top surface so that a new layer of PU will adhear to the old PU. So use about a 80 gritt pad. to fine a sand paper will not give a good key for the new PU and to rouogh a paper may scratch to deep into your floor.
Note: if your original floor was stained you must be very carful not to sand all the way through the PU as the timber underneath will show through as a differant colour.

Dust off the floor with a clean broom to remove the bulk of the dust then use Methalated spirits on clean rags and completly clean the floor. You are now ready to start applying the PU as per the manufacturers specifications.

Other things to note:

1) I always wear socks when cleaning back the floor for the last time as oil from your feet and hands can transfere onto the floor and cause small patches were the PU does not adhere properly.

2) After the reccomended drying time I always insist that my clients wait an additonal 24 - 48 hours to allow the PU to fully harden before they walk on it or move furniture. A lot of the PU manufactures seem to cut down there drying times to make there product more appealing to busy market.

Hope this helps.