The unit does not supply warm water.What is to be done?

Check if the unit has a cold water dispenser that it will fill a cup. If so than problem is with Ice Maker. If not than problem is with water supply to unit.
If water to machine works make sure that the arm on the ice maker is in the down position. If it is up it will disable the ice making unit. Cycle the am a few times to insure that the switch connected to the arm has not gotten stuck in the off position.

On some ice makers there is a separate switch to disable the Ice maker usually right on the ice-maker not easily missed.

It is possible that the water feed tube into the Ice Maker has become frozen where it enters into the back of the freezer at the top. You can look through to see where the water fills into the cube tray. If ice is present it would be an indication that the feed tube has become frozen If suspected the safest way to fix would be to turn off the unit and allow for a manual defrost.

Next check the operation of the ice maker. Locate the arm in the up position prohibiting the ice maker from cycling. Wait three hours or more. Open freezer door and return the arm into the down position. After a few minutes you should observe the ice fingers rotating to release the cubes into the tray. If the fingers do not rotate I would suspect the ice maker or the connecting electrical circuit. Remember after dropping the arm the Ice Maker has to warm up to melt the ice cubes from the tray before the fingers are told to rotate,

If the fingers rotate then I would expect that the water supply solenoid has failed inside of the unit near to the location the the water supply is made. Replacing this part needs to be done by a qualified experienced technician.

your dishwasher is leaking water. the bottom or base of the unit is like a big catch pan, the pan has a water sensor witch is two metal contacts positioned just over the bottom of the pan. As water from a leak begins to fill the pan and makes contact with the two metal tabs it opens the circuit to a cut off switch at the water inlet valve. Slide the unit out from the cabinet just far enough to access the sides, about 20 inches, As water is removed from the panand no longer making contact wit the water sensor power will be restored to the inlet valve, Now you begin looking for the source of the leak, You may need to start a wash cycle, this is why the unit needs to remain connected. The source of the leake will dictate what needs to be disconnected and position of the unit. Something like the water level sensor can be replaced without fully uninstalling the unit.

Make sure both water valves are on at the supply. Set the machine to warm wash/warm rinse and start it, feel the water coming in, then turn off the water valves at the supply.to take the water pressure off the hoses, then turn off the machine.Then swap the H and C water hoses at the back of the unit, then turn it on to wash again. If you now get cold but no hot, the cold water valve solenoid is bad, replace it.

Error code 4E is a water supply error.
Check the following:

• Foreign material is entering the water supply valve.
• The water supply valve terminal is not connected.
  (Wire disconnected)
• The warm water and rinse connectors are wrongly connected to each other.
• This occurs if the PCB terminal from the drain hose to the
  detergent drawer is not connected. Check whether the transparent hose is folded or torn.

Possible Parts Affected are:

• Water supply Valve
• Main PCB
• Obstruction of the water line.

To Check the water supply:
Check the resistance for the water supply valve. Resistance: 0.9~1.1k? between the terminals of the water supply valve

Make sure the water supply hose SCREEN where it connects to the unit is not clogged. You should get water through the nozzle without the unit running. If your not getting water with the unit off... the water supply hose is full of AIR or the screen is blocked. Loosen the water supply connection and purge the air from the hose (Clean screen if you have not already done so)
If this does not work there is more that can be done with the unloader / bypass valve. Respond here and I will help you AFTER you check the above.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

U mite have a rust or calcium blockage try poking around n the hose and spigot with wire hanger

Likely that the water supply tube to the icemaker is frozen. It will be a white rubber tube on the right side of the icemaker. Warm it with a hair dryer, remove it from its aluminum tubing, and make sure there is no ice all the way back to where the supply tube comes from the water valve. After thawing, your icemaker should start working again.

Now..... why did it freeze? Most likely, there is a restricted airflow to the back of the unit, which is need to keep that aluminum supply tube just warm enough to assure all the water flow OUT of it into the icemaker, and doesn't freeze up on contact. Make sure your coils and the airspace under the fridge are completely clean (vacuuum them well) and it should cure the problem.

Not getting enough water into the ice maker. Could be a partially frozen supply line, restricting the total water input, or it could be that the timer needs to be adjust.

If the water supply tube to the icemaker is frozen. It will be a white rubber tube on the right side of the icemaker. Warm it with a hair dryer, remove it from its aluminum tubing, and make sure there is no ice all the way back to where the supply tube comes from the water valve. After thawing, your icemaker should start working again.

Now..... why did it freeze? Most likely, there is a restricted airflow to the back of the unit, which is need to keep that aluminum supply tube just warm enough to assure all the water flow OUT of it into the icemaker, and doesn't freeze up on contact. Make sure your coils and the airspace under the fridge are completely clean (vacuuum them well) and it should cure the problem.

To adjust the timer, follow the instructions here http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/diagicemaker.php

Likely that the water supply tube to the icemaker is frozen. It will be a white rubber tube on the right side of the icemaker. Warm it with a hair dryer, remove it from its aluminum tubing, and make sure there is no ice all the way back to where the supply tube comes from the water valve. After thawing, your icemaker should start working again.

Now..... why did it freeze? Most likely, there is a restricted airflow to the back of the unit, which is need to keep that aluminum supply tube just warm enough to assure all the water flow OUT of it into the icemaker, and doesn't freeze up on contact. Make sure your coils and the airspace under the fridge are completely clean (vacuuum them well) and it should cure the problem.

Likely that the water supply tube to the icemaker is frozen. It will be a white rubber tube on the right side of the icemaker. Warm it with a hair dryer, remove it from its aluminum tubing, and make sure there is no ice all the way back to where the supply tube comes from the water valve. After thawing, your icemaker should start working again.

Now..... why did it freeze? Most likely, there is a restricted airflow to the back of the unit, which is need to keep that aluminum supply tube just warm enough to assure all the water flow OUT of it into the icemaker, and doesn't freeze up on contact. Make sure your coils and the airspace under the fridge are completely clean (vacuuum them well) and it should cure the problem.