Not difficult...2 screws on the top and 2 screws on the bottom of the box will remove the amp section. Did you change any components that rectified the fuse blowing problem ? ie. like Q17 - 2SC5200 0r Q14 - 2SA1943 are the main output drivers..
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If the main fuse should blow up; surely there should be a short circuit to any component/s at it. If the secondary [DC] fuse also has blown up, there should be a reason for it too.
You should first check out the main power board alone, and then the secondary board connected. It will be impossible to follow these without its schematic diagram. Try to download it by internet. Without proper guidance; how can we follow the complicated circuits, and check the components?
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
No, your done. Now replace the Y-Main, that's the large one you found the fuse blown on and replace the two buffer boards that the Y plugs into. Those are the two at the far left. The part numbers are on the boards. So that's 3 boards you will need. sometimes they sell the buffers together as a pair which is cheaper. DO NOT buy from second hand resellers. Always buy new when it comes to plasma sets.
Something happened when you took it apart. Either you dropped a piece, or the pieces are not lining up properly. Take the controller apart again and double check to make sure that everything will touch the contact points they are supposed to touch as you put it back together again. If it still doesn't work, then you might have accedentally damaged a lead on the little circuit board inside it, and at that point you will probably have to buy a new controller.
Does it function at all? If not it's prob not the fuseable link. I'd put money that you have a bad contriol (the circuit board has shorted). I have the same model. Mine shut down during a wash cycle - totally dead. It has power but doesn't function. The wiring diagram (located down on your kick plate) explains how to test various components. Two things you can do when the unit has power but is dead - Turn off the power to the unit. Open the door and unscrew the six screws that hold the top of the dishwasher together. The front top control will now be loose.On the backside there is a gray cover. push the tabs back and remove this cover - make sure the power is shut off at the breaker). Under the cover you will see your circuit board and a bunch of wires. There is a 14 pin connector that connects the circuit board to the key pad. push the tabs back and lift out the circuit board. carefully unplug the 14 pin connector and leave it unplugged. Put your circuit board back in and install the gray cover over the controls - leaving the 14 pin connector unhooked. install the six screws - basically putting the thing totally back together. Leave the dishwasher door open and turn the breaker (power) back on. Count to five and close the door. If you have a bad key pad your dishwasher drain motor will cut on and run for 2 min. If the control is bad (the circuit board) nothing will happen. The control is fairly easy to replace - costs around $122 bucks for parts. Hope this helps!
Oh yeah, if you want to check the fuseable link it's the round thing on the circuit board - has two black wires going into it. MAKE SURE the power is turned off at the breaker before you mess with this.
They are not publicly available. Mackie authorized service centers are the only places that will have that information. The amp (if it has failed) requires a bit of skill to rebuild, and up to 100$ in parts alone. (not including the speaker driver if it's blown). I have repaired several of these in the past, and they aren't that simple. There is also a service bulletin about 2 diodes that usually need to be swapped with one another because of a defect during manufacture (the parts were installed incorrectly). (One is D20) if you rebuild the amp, and fail to address the diodes, it will fail again very shortly.
There is a fine strip that runs from the face to the circuit board. It is possible that face has gotten dirty just needs a can of compressed air or the circuit board has failed inside the face.
The face plate is very easy to take apart and put back together, just make sure you don't lose any pieces ;)
If you pulled it apart and put it back together but now it won't work properly, try checking your IDE cables to the hard drive/cd-rom, make sure they aren't connected backwards. Otherwise just carefully look over the entire board, be sure that the processor, heat sink and fan assembly are all intact and connected properly, do the same with the RAM, power connection, any expansion cards.