220 volts has been confirmed at the outlet/Breakers are in on position.
Thermal fuse was checked and has 0 resistance/complete continuity.
Hi limits on heater housing checked and has 0 resistance/cc.
Lint trap on filter housing has been cleaned of all debris.
Start switch was bypassed and wires jumped but still no-start condition.
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Re: No start/No heat condition!
Suggestions 1. diconect power 2.check continuity of door sw 3.if able to access motor terminals check for open windings and check to motor case for short to terminals 4.check heater terminals for open circuit
When you bypassed the start sw was there any sound at all from the motor?
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ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle.
Wow. In electric dryers with an AUTO cycle; the heater runs on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage. If the resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if a thermostat was bad. The timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. You need to make sure that you test for continuity in the resistor. I've looked at two parts diagrams for your washer and cannot find a sensor anywhere in either, so the thermostat is what tells the timer to advance once the dryer reaches a preset temperature. The thermostat will only tell the timer to advance if the dryer reaches the proper temperature, if you have some clogging in the vents, the dryer may never reach the proper temperature, and thus not advance on the auto cycle. but i'm sure you've probably checked that. I'm baffled. Let me know how it pans out if you can. Thanks. I'm still trying to find a wiring diagram for that model.
Make sure you have 220 Volts of power at outlet, check circuit breakers. Then, with dryer door open, look for door switch actuator on door. It may be broken. Use flat screwdriver to manually push door switch in, then push start.
If you have a access to an AC voltmeter, measure the two slanted connections in the wall socket for ~220 volts. If near zero, measure at the load side of the dual breakers for the same voltage. If still at or near zero, one of the breakers has gone south. Replace the pair of breakers. If you measured 220 volts as above, then the problem is within the dryer--probably a burned out heating element or open thermal fuse. Major tear-down to find and fix as the heating element is behind the drum.
Electric dryers run on 220 volt, it is usually a double breaker at your main panel, however, depending on the electrician and how old the wiring is you might have two breakers, so start there first. If not, there are several parts to this dryer. It could be an element, a thermal fuse, high limit thermostat, or as simple as a burnt wire. Most important please turn off power before working on this.
The other thing that most people forget to check is the outlet pipe or vent pipe. If they get blocked, when the heat turns on, and it is blocked, the dryer will detect it and immediately turn off the heat but the drum will still turn. Bed Bath and Beyond has a dryer vent clean out kit that hooks to a shop vac.
Hope this helps!
Recheck for 220 at plug. May have tripped breaker. PULL PLUG FIRST!! Remove rear panel. Check for continuity at white thermal fuse located near bottom center on the blower housing. It should close to 0 resistance. Also check hi-limits on side of heater housing. Also should be close to 0 resistance. If any are open, replace and clear venting. Also remove 4 screws on bottom of filter housing and pull bottom of housing out. Reach in and remove lint.
If the timer is set for a auto dry cycle, the timer won't advance if not heating. You need to check for 220 volts at outlet. It's possible to have only 1 110 volt circuit. May be a bad breaker. or outlet. If you have 220 volts at outlet, you need to have an ohm meter to check continuity of the thermal fuses and the heater. Access by removing rear panel. UNPLUG FIRST!!!!!
You need to check for 220 volts at outlet. It's possible
to have only 1 110 volt circuit. May be a bad breaker. or outlet. If
you have 220 volts at outlet, you need to have an ohm meter to check
continuity of the thermal fuses and the heater. Access by removing
rear panel. UNPLUG FIRST!!!!!