Question about Oster 6307 / 6309 2-Slice Toaster

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Trying to fix my Oster 6309 and can't seem to remove . . .

My gorgeous copper Oster 6309 is on the fritz. Oster no longer makes or sells the copper model and I'm having a heck of a time finding an affordable replacement so, i've decided to try to fix it. I'm fairly certain it is the selenoid switch but, for the life of me, I can't figure out how to remove the bread carriage/toast lift lever. It appears to have been riveted in place and therefore, unremovable. I'm sure it is just inexperience speaking so I was wondering if anyone could tell me how the lever is removed so that i can get to the "guts" of the toaster. Thanks.

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Re: Trying to fix my Oster 6309 and can't seem to remove...

The lever actually comes off another way, turn the toaster upside down and you will see a small clip holding the handle to the metal arm inside, you can pry it off with aa small screwdriver

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

Re: Trying to fix my Oster 6309 and can't seem to remove...

Mine is not working either. I can drop out the bottom and see the circuit board but have no idea what to do next. Mine no longer sensors the toasting time and I burn everything now...

Posted on Jan 28, 2008

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Re: Trying to fix my Oster 6309 and can't seem to remove...

The push down lever pulls out the side. You may have to apply a little leverage

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

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I have the 4-slice oster, but I bet the control mechanism is the same. When you take it apart you will see a small steel bar held by two plastic fingers. When you push the lever down the steel bar moves down and contacts a small square electromagnet. The electromagnet holds the lever down during toasting and releases the lever when done. On mine there was a compressed layer of bread crumbs covering the electromagnet. Cleaned it off and now it works again.

To take the toaster apart, pull the down lever straight out and then unfasten the screws on the bottom base (5 on mine) and pull the top off carefully. There are wires connecting the control face to the base, but they have enough slack to let you separate the top/bottom and access the mechanism.

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Oct 28, 2009 | Oster 6307 / 6309 2-Slice Toaster

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The digital control panel is on the fritz,

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My husband took the cover off and found that a magnet is what keeps the lever down when the toaster's on, and allows it to go back up when the toasting is done. It's an electro magnet that works only when the toaster is on. It seems that when I turned the unit upside down and rightside up again, crumbs landed on the magnet's contact plates (which are about 1/4" x 1/2") and would not allow the magnet to engage. Because the magnet wouldn't engage, the lever would not stay down, and the toaster shut off. Brush off the magnets, replace the cover and toast away!

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My Oster Toaster stopped popping up after a couple of years as well - the lever just stays down until you unplug it or the toast catches on fire.

R3 was burned and replaced per the info on these discussions to no effect.

So I mapped out a rough schematic from the board and found some interesting things. Oster seems to be directly rectifying the line voltage (dangerous but cheap) through D1-D4 into 5V through DZ4 and 32V through DZ1.

These voltages seem to be across R3, which means it has 27V on 1K or about 0.73W on it continuously! Not only is this a waste of power, but it will always burn a 1/2W resistor. I would recommend replacing it with a 1W or larger and setting it up off the board to dissipate the heat into the air.

Then when toasting, the NPN transistor Q2 pulls to GND one side of the coil that holds the lever down. R3 is used as a series current limit for the 32V supply to the other side of the coil (so it has 32V or over 1W on it when toasting).

My problem with the toast not popping up was related to Q2 being blown. I don't remember the original number since I cut it out, but they seemed to have used an audio transistor with a Vce of 20V and Ic of 20mA. No wonder it blew with 32V and 32mA on it - bad design from the start.

I replaced Q2 with a cheap, commonly available 2N2222 - it has the same pinout and is good for 1A and 50V. It's been working great for months, but sadly still burning almost 1W continuously or over 6KWh per year.


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My toaster doesn't stay in the down (toast) position unless I hold it down

I solved this problem on my Cuisinart CPT-90 Classic Style Toaster twice for two different problems. Of course: make sure it's UNPLUGGED while working on it and WATCH IT several times when testing so you can unplug it first and then extinguish it if it catches on fire.

1st time: There is a small solenoid mounted in the center of the circuit board. When the pop up mechanism is pressed down the circuit energizes and the the solenoid magnetically locks a plastic clip that holds the spring loaded pop up mechanism down until it's done toasting. The plastic mounts for the circuit board broke or weakened until the whole circuit board would tilt up and the solenoid clip would slip under the spring tension. I used a plastic tie-wrap to hold the circuit board firmly in place and that worked to this day.

2nd time : The four copper reed tabs can be miss aligned. If they
do not make contact, the circuit will not energize the solenoid.
The reason they warped was that, over time, the contacts build up carbon and have more resistance. Resistance equals heat. The
plastic base of the copper reed switch melted and misaligned the reeds. The second time I cleaned the reeds and bent them back into position, The third time the the plastic was to badly burned to be reliable. If I had cleaned the contacts once a year, it probably would still work now. I haven't found a place to buy a replacement reed switch so my toaster is toast. If anyone knows where to order them, I'd like to know. If the white plastic base of the reed switch is not melted, then they can be cleaned and aligned.

Note: When aligning the copper contacts, don't just hold down the pop up mechanism. The pop up mechanism will push lower than the position for toasting. Push it down and then hold the solenoid clip instead. Then the two center reeds will be at the correct spread.

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