I lose power to the brush. It only happen as I pull the wand towards myself. Like the tension is creating a loss of contact. Turn the switch off and back on, the brush starts again. Thoughts?

it can be belt or clutch failed. put the vac on its side and on the bottom there will be either two push clips or 2 screws remove them or push them and pull the bottom off. then when this is off you will see were the belt is for the spinning brush. if the belt is still on then the clutch has gone in the motor if the belt has gone take out the broken part and get a new belt, fitting new belt you need to remove the spinning brush it is either clipped in or slotted in , clipped is push the clips out to the side and lift the brush out, slotted it will just pull out. clean out the brush before putting back in also check the brushes bearing to make sure it moves easy as a failed bearing do to carpet string etc can burn the belt, any belt that has been burnt in this way should be removed and changed as it will damage the hover if still used after this part has been cleaned replace all parts and then turn on dont and it pluged in mains while you are doing this and dont use until it has all been fitted back..

RJ ROY IS Bald

Turn the Master ON/ OFF Switch to OFF and unplug the unit. Wait 12-15 minutes and plug the unit back in. Turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and set your controls. The 12-15 minute timeout should have allowed the unit to reset itself.

What you refer to as a "filter" is actually the "plate," I assume. (4" square white object with mesh center panel?) The two small lights are simply power indicators, and may be burned out so could be inaccurate.
UNPLUG the machine.
1) If your model has a switch on the right that says "Manual" and "Auto," set it on "Manual."
2) Remove the back screen and remove the plate. Inspect it carefully for any kind of minute cracks, burned spots, discoloration, loose mucilage, broken screen strands, lint, dirt, etc. Even the smallest defect can cause the plate to short out, creating a burned, electric smell. If you detect something, or if it's spitting, sparking, or sizzling more loudly than normal, you need a new plate. Order through Vollara (new name of EcoQuest) at 800-989-2299.
3) Even though that plate appears clean, with no defects, it may be corrupted by whatever cleaning product was used. ONLY PLAIN AMMONIA and water, 1-to-1 ratio, should be used.
a) Soak the plate for 5 minutes or so.
b) Use a toothbrush or soft veggie brush and gently clean the plate You can also clean the metal contacts with a cotton-tipped swab and alcohol.
c) Blow-dry or air-dry the plate. DO NOT use any kind of cloth or paper wiper.
d) Avoid touching the screen part with fingers.
e) Reinsert plate, making sure it goes in on the tracks, both top and bottom, and isn't pushed too far. Both metal pressure contacts should press firmly on the screen on each side of the plate. (Tweak them to achieve firm contact, if necessary.) Sometimes, if the plate was cleaned with the wrong solution, it is damaged and cannot be cleaned enough by using ammonia. Order a new plate, using the above customer service number.

i had a noisy screechy electrically crackley ionic pro , i just unplugged her ,opened her up and ,pulled out the three bladed cartridge , you can now see the three metal tabs that make contact with the three bars .. carefully bend these out so they have more spring tension applied to the three bars , what was happening was the electrical connection was to weak , the added tension[sping pressure ] stops the noise cold , its a miracle

transformer rod has seperated probably due to a power surge

I was able to find the power-on switch to be defective. The switch is a momentary normally off switch constructed of two contacts on a printed circuit board. After five years, the surface of the switch contacts became oxidized and no longer made electrical continuity when depressed. I rewired the two wires to a new momentary switch and both my Ionic Air Cleaners are working again.

Pull the blue tab toward the black grille and simultaneously slide the grill upward. Should fall off easily. Hope this helps.

My Ionic Breeze GP began losing power occasionally but I could shake it and get it to turn back on. It got worse and worse until it would not turn on anymore.

The problem on mine is the micro switch that detects whether the collector plates are inserted or not, so it is part of the safety mechanism. There is a about a one-inch cylindrical piece of plastic on the front of the collector plate handle. This cylinder goes through a hole and pushes on the micro switch (actually a plastic cover over the micro switch).

On mine, it appears that arcing inside the switch caused it to get hot, deforming the plastic a little bit and apparently ruining the inside of the switch.

The following URLs describe the switch, but I have not found a retailer that carries it:
http://www.dicgroup.com/pdf/SM/SM5-01N.pdf
http://www.dicgroup.com/e-pro01-sm.html

Another of the same model switch is used in the back of the unit to detect whether the rear cover is on (over the UV bulb).

If I cannot find a replacement, I am thinking of either bypassing the bad switch entirely or swapping the switch from the back. Either way would defeat a safety feature so it's probably not to be recommended, but I consider the sacrificing the switch for the back cover to be introducing only limited risk, so I might take that route if I have to.