Question about Dryers
My kenmore dryer is only 2 years old or so. For a few weeks it's taken 2 cycles to dry clothes thoroughly. Cleaned lint trap and vent to outside: no obstructions. All of a sudden it won't start. It's getting power (light comes on inside when door is open, so door switch is working), but when I set the timer it doesn't appear to make any noise. I took the back off and looked at the various thermostats and the thermal fuse (with the exception of the thermostat behind the blower), but not being an electrician, I can't tell if these parts are still working or not. They all seem fine on the outside. I removed the element and looked at it - it's dark but not 'burnt' in any way. I'd like to take a crack at fixing it myself, but the parts are rather expensive. If I replace the thermal fuse, should I replace the thermal cut off as well? Is there any way I can nail down the defective part rather than buy parts at random until I hit upon the right one? Any particular order I should replace parts? (any end to my questions? ;) ) The heating element seems like the most likely candidate, because of the prior issue with not drying on the first cycle, but that could be a thermostat issue as well, with the cycle cooling down prematurely (I guess...).
Sears kenmore 400 series dryer - model # 110.67222600
Electric (220) 3 wire - front loader
Any help is appreciated!
Just some advice on the electrical components behind the machine. The thermal fuse (the long white fuse) should read continuity. set your meter to beep and it should beep. same goes with the thermal cut-off that's above the heating element, and same goes with the element. if it doesn't start, it's probably a thermal fuse. Good luck :) email me if you need help. email@example.com
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Thermal Fuse
First of all stop replacing the fuses and using the dryer it could burn down your house. The problem is the vent is clogged (not necessarily in the dryer) make sure also that the vent flex is not excessively long behind the dryer and is not kinked when the dryer is pushed back.
Posted on Nov 19, 2007
You may need to do some troubleshooting. This can be done with the machine unplugged - you may have to activate the start switch, belt switch (if it has one) and the motor centrifugal switch manually.
Tip for troubleshooting 220v systems - clip one lead of a ohm meter to either L1 or L2 on the terminal block. It doesn't matter which one. According to the tech sheet (under console) follow the path for current from your clipped terminal, through the heating element, to the opposite terminal. All the readings should be less than 100 ohms, until you reach the failed part. Confirm failure by disconnecting a lead from the suspected part, and test only that part.
Live troubleshooting is sometimes slightly easier, but much more dangerous than the procedure described above. - It is definitely not recommended for beginners, or for professionals, if it can be avoided.
Posted on Mar 10, 2008
Turn off your breakers, then back on to insure a good reset. Then check the wiring from the receptacle, to the plug and then to the back of the dryer. You are getting some heat which tells me that one leg of power is out. I don't think it is your element, because you get some heat. Let me know how you do.
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
take off the back at the heating element there are twoo wires undo at least one of them and check the contnuity [before you do this unplug the dryer] if you have a reading on you maeter it isnt the element check the thrmostat, i hope i helped.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
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