Question about Whirlpool GH6177XP Microwave Oven

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Ran on power for 10 minutes, thought it was on timer.

At some point after I opened the door, I lost all power to unit. There is power to the outlet.

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First, check the fuse usually located above the display, inside the top lid.  You can't see if it's blown, so you must test it for continuity with a meter or self powered test light.  Usually fifteen amp, and of the ceramic variety.  (available at radio shack type places) If the new one blows instantly, it's likely a door switch shorted out.  If it blows after a few seconds, it could be the magnetron gone bad, or internal arcing.  The main transformer will sometimes short out, but that's rare.   Be absolutely careful, should your fingers venture around the magnatron connections down below, as there is high voltage and current that can kill you.  This warning applies even when it's unplugged!
The door switches operate together, so if one slams the door shut it will often blow the fuse with no other damage.  Sometimes the crow-bar switch will sustain damage in the process.  Usually, if the switches click individually, they're good.  If one doesn't click, it'll almost always be shorted.  They're located behind the door catch, inside the unit beside the display board, and a bit hard to access.  You will need to reach past the magnatron for this, so be careful.

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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I have a Ge above oven microwave and apperently there was a small fire occured due to arcing. Now my Microwave doesn't turn on. Is my microwave fixable or do i need to buy another one?

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

My microwave shuts off, black no power when ever I cook tv dinners, potatoes etc. after 2.5 or 3 minutes. After 10 minutes or so, power comes back on and it displays PF. lots of steam inside after.


Hi Kerry,
"PF" is power falure if you didn't aready know this. It sounds to me like the coolig fan might be running slow or there is blocked or restricted air flow through the unit. This cooling fan is only for the HV transformer and magnetron. Sometimes you may get air flow around the door but this is incidental. The PF tells me that the power is being interrupted either at the power source (wall outlet or circuit breaker) or the magnetron TCO is cutting out. It also could be a bad magnetron running too hot. As far as the steam goes, I usually just leave the door open on my microwave for 10 or 15 minutes to let the condensation evaporate.

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The service manual is here.

It may be a defective 20A fuse, a blown magnetron temperature fuse, or a problem on the control circuit board, which can be economically repaired.

There is a YouTube video here showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Once the controller is off, you should be able to access the magnetron's temperature fuse for testing and possible replacement.

You can order parts from the Pros here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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This is a safety feature of the microwave. Unplug it and leave the door open for about 10 minutes and it should work again with no problems.
P.S. My kids overheat mine all the time making pop corn.

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Hello Davisaroundt, we are sorry to hear about your Microwave not powering on. If you would like for us to schedule service for you, then can you please email your address, phone number, the model and serial number, the website you were contacted on, Fixya, your review ID, and date of purchase to Whirlpool_Digital@whirlpool.com?

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For future reference, we regularly repair such control boards and displays for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

Here's the main service manual. Other versions are here and here.

It may be grease inside one of the switches or arcing conductors (usually due to opening the door while it's cooking) making it sticky.

This was made by Sharp, so the side panel should come off each interlock switch for inspection.

But looking at the schematic, the monitor switch cannot come into play under normal circumstances unless the door is shut and the secondary interlock (relay RY2 on the control board) is closed and (oddly, if the published schematic is to be believed) if the oven lamp relay RY1 is closed .

Everything seems to point to a bizarre problem like maybe an intermittent short of a wire to the chassis, perhaps where a wire passes through a hole or guide in the sheet metal.

Also, you might consider unplugging the hood vent motor and trying it.

Did you try it with the oven powered from another outlet?

Also be sure the neutral and hot are not reversed at the outlet and that the line voltage is correct.

Sometimes a loose neutral can be a factor. Test outlets in several area of the house to see if some are high and some are low. This can be dangerous, and the power company must be called.

If there is anything else on the same breaker, that can be a factor.

Good luck!

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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It could be the fuse. You will also need to check the condition and alignment of the door switches.
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Goldstar


We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com


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