Question about Imperial IFS40 Deep Fryer

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Cant get the main flame on

I replaced the gasvalve and the thermopile. pilot lights and stays lit until the thermostat makes. then pilot goes out

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  • joesheetz Jul 15, 2009

    as stated earlier we have a new gas valve and a new thermopile. the pilot lights and stays on until the thermostat makes then the pilot goes off and obviously the main flame will not come on. the pilot is not the problem. thanks J.S.

  • joesheetz Jul 18, 2009

    I increased the pilot oriface one size. adjusted the flame so that it better contacted the thermopile, replaced wiring and connections, wire brushed thermostat and high limit wiring posts. this assured that enought milivoltz were available for pilot and main flame.

  • cb1997 May 11, 2010

    Gas valve outside partially closed, or some other restriction?  Pilot flame touching thermopile?  Are there other items on this line that work fine?  (That nixes the restriction thought....)

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    flame goes out when i pull out the baskets

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Check the vent hole (plastic plug, not the screw) on the regulator between your gas line & the back of the fryer. If it is plugged, it wont fire & the pilot will go out when t-stat makes.
captrick

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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At 300F after half hour, pilot and main gas burner was going off. When re-lit would stay on only 5 minutes thereafter. Had the thermopile changed(bought locally- not original from Imperial but identical),...


Hi there.
The thermostat will only shut down burner flame but not pilot flame.
Try tightening all wiring connections.
By using an ohm meter, check the continuity across the hi limit terminals when the pilot goes off, your hi limit may be tripping prematurely causing pilot flame to shut down.
Regards.

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I replaced the gasvalve and thermalpile in my 35,BTU wall heater I light the pilot and turn the heat on it goes out I ran a new state wire in case of a short but it still does it, did I get a bad...


Did you get the right gas valve for a thermapile and not a 24 volt gas valve? Also I would recheck my wiring.... Here is a article that may be of HELP....... Hope this Helps.....
Thermocouple: A thermocouple is a device made of two different metals which creates a small electrical charge when heated at one end.
Thermopile: A thermopile is a probe that contains multiple thermocouples, therefore it can produce a larger electrical current. Millivolts: 1/1000 of a volt - thermocouples and thermopiles typically produce from 25 to 600 millivolts of power.
Piezio - a spark producing device often used to ignite gas pilots and burners.
Gas Valves Types:
A. Single Thermocouple Only - Used on some gas logs
B. Valves with Thermocouples and Thermopiles - Used on most hearth appliances and gas logs with switches or remote controls or thermostats.
C. ODS Systems - Used on Mostly Vent-Free. Available in manual control or thermostat/remote/switch (combination) valves.
valvepict.jpg
Typical Gas Valve A. Thermocouple-Only
Found in: Most gas log sets with standard safety pilot knob control. Also found in certain gas space heaters and construction-site portable heaters.
Explanation: This type of gas valve used a single thermocouple. A thermocouple is a device made of two different metals which creates a small electrical charge when heated at one end by the gas pilot. This small charge causes an electromagnet inside the gas valve to open and allow gas to flow to the main burners. Since the thermocouple must be heated before the burner will start, gas appliances often have a startup mode, during which a knob must be depressed and held for 30 seconds or so after lighting the pilot. At the end of the 30 seconds, the pilot should be generating enough electricity for the valve to operate correctly. At this time, the startup knob can be released and the valve turned to an "on" position for appliance operation.
pilotclose.gif Troubleshooting:
Most problems with this type of valve are due to thermocouple problems. Check the following:
1. Connection from the thermocouple to the valve. Clean the threads of the connecting nut with a pencil eraser and re-tighten.
2. Pilot hood and flame direction. The pilot should engulf the top 5/8" of the thermocouple with a decent flame. If the flame hits the thermocouple too low, this can cause the appliance to go out or not generate enough millivolts for valve operation. The pilot hood and orifice should also be clean from soot which could slow or block the pilot flame.
3. Pilot pressure. Many of these valves have an adjustment screw to adjust the pilot flame. A pilot that is too short may allow the pilot to stay lit after ignition, but may not create enough charge to allow the burners to ignite.
4. Overheating: If the unit works for a few hours and then shuts down, it's possible the thermocouple has become overheated. Repositioning of the gas valve and/or pilot may be needed to avoid this problem.
Problems with LP units can also be due to a tank that is nearly empty or a bad regulator at the tank.
B. Thermocouple & Thermopile valve
gas1.gif Found in: Most modern VENTED gas stoves, fireplaces and fireplace inserts as well as vented gas log sets with thermostat or remote control.
This valve is similar to the thermocouple only valve, however has a pilot which heats up BOTH a thermocouple and a thermopile. The thermocouple still acts to prove that the pilot flame is on and allows this flame to continue after startup. The thermopile is used to power a second circuit which is used to open the main valve. This second circuit is powerful enough (300-600 millivolts) to allow the use of a thermostat, wall switch or control switch to operate the main valve. Control of the valve is obtained simply by hooking a pair of wires to two terminals located on the valve.
Startup is similar to the thermocouple-only valve. A piezo spark ignition is used to ignite the pilot after the gas knob is turned to the "pilot" position and depressed. Once the pilot is lit, the knob is held in for 30 seconds to "prove" the heat and then released and turned from the "pilot" to the "on" position. The main burner will then respond to the switch, thermostat or remote control.
Troubleshooting
Since there is both a thermocouple and thermopile in this valve type, it is important to isolate where the potential problem may be. If the pilot can be lit and stays on after the knob is released, then the problem is probably with the thermopile side of the valve. Here are the most common problems and solutions.
1. Pilot does not light or stay lit after knob is released - Make certain that the Piezo igniter works by checking for a spark between the igniter tip and the pilot hood. If there is no spark, the piezo may be bad or the piezo wire might be shorting to the appliance chassis. It is also possible that the igniter tip needs to be bent slightly toward the pilot hood so the spark jumps to it.
Check carefully that gas to appliance is on and that the valve is in he correct (pilot) position and fully depressed when lighting.
If pilot ignites but does not stay lit after knob is released, then the problem is with the thermocouple not generating enough voltage to the valve. It may be that the pilot adjustment needs to be turned up, or the thermocouple replaced. Another possibility is that the thermocouple may not be being "bathed" fully by the pilot flame. Check your owners manual for a diagram and description of the proper pilot flame and hood adjustment. It is also possible that there is soot or other blockage in the pilot tube, orifice or hood which is reducing the size of the pilot (and also the voltage of the thermocouple).
2. Pilot stays lit, but appliance will not turn on - There are two common causes for this. It is possible that the thermopile is not producing enough millivolts to power the control circuit. The millivolts can be checked with a simple voltmeter (consult the owners manual for proper setting) and adjusted with the pilot adjustment screw. Improper millivolts will also cause the appliance to shut down in the middle of operation.
Another common problem is loose or poor connections or circuits to your appliance switch, thermostat or remote transceiver. This can be isolated by simply using a small piece of wire to jump the "TP" and "TH" terminals located on these valves. If the appliance turns on when these terminals are jumped, then you can be sure that your problem is not in the appliance itself, but further down the switch circuit. Make certain you have used the suggested gauge of wire and that the length for your control runs does not exceed the specs given in your manual.
3. Other possible problems - include wind or back drafts affecting the pilot flame and checking of "spillage" circuits which may be wired into the valve in most B-Vent units.
If all the above checks out, and your valve is still acting weird (i.e., works some of the time), then you may have a defective gas valve in the appliance. Problems with LP units can also be due to a tank that is nearly empty or a bad regulator at the tank.
C. ODS System
Found in: Unvented (Ventless, Vent free) gas logs, fireplaces and stoves. These systems are available in manual or remote control.
ods.gif ODS stands for "Oxygen Depletion Sensor" , a term which accurately describes this valve type. The valve itself is similar in many ways to the two valve types above...with one exception. The pilot tube is a precision mechanism that creates a very stable flame as long as the room air contains the proper amount of oxygen. If the oxygen level in the room air drops even slightly, the pilot becomes unstable and lifts off of the thermocouple (see diagram) causing the gas valve and appliance to cease operation. This type of valve is very reliable, and there have been very few failures of this system - even with tens of millions in use worldwide.

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1 Answer

Pilot light keeps going out! Will not stay Lit.


Check if the the gas pressure is sufficient (as stated on unit's nameplate). Check if the hi limit device is good. Check also if the thermopile (cylindrical metal with two wires standing behind the pilot hood) is receiving enough heat from the pilot flame. The voltage generated by thermopile should be 500millivolts in order to open pilot and main valve. If there is 500millivolt on gas valve thermopile and the pilot flame does not stay lit, you have to replace the gas valve. If the thermopile is glowing red and the voltage generated does not reach 500 millivots, you have to replace the thermopile.

Jan 18, 2011 | Pitco Frialator SG18S Deep Fryer

1 Answer

We changed the thermostat in our unit and now the pilot lite won't stay lit!


You have to check the following:
1. Does the pilot flame has the ability to heat up the thermopile? Themopile must be properly heated in order to generate voltage to open the pilot valve as well as main valve.
2. When the thermolpile is heated, does it generates 500 millivolts? If not, your thermopile needs replacement. If it does and still the pilot flame wont stay lit, your gas valve needs replacement.
3. Does the hi limit device has continuity on its terminals? If there is no continuity on hi limit terminals, you have to replace it. One of the thermopile wire passes on this hi limit terminal to cut the voltage supply on pilot valve in case the oil temperature reaches 450F.
4. Check and tighten all wiring connections, millivolts generated by thermopile will not pass on loosely terminated wiring.

Jan 12, 2011 | Pitco Frialator 35CS Deep Fryer

1 Answer

Pilot light will not stay lit


use a torch to simulate pilot flame and read milivolt. if ok then make sure pilot flame is fully contacting thermopile. also make sure thermopile wiring connections are clean and secure.

Jul 16, 2009 | Imperial IFS40 Deep Fryer

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change the gas valve, if the thermocoupling works and the piliot stays lit then it has to be the gas valve check to make sure the screen is clear also,, you said it's propane, check to make sure it is all the way turned on, and has the right pressure it might have a bad regulator on it, but will let other things in the house run good luck

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