Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Schematic for TBX19THB

Schematic for TBX19TH. 74 VAC across defrost heater though it does not glow when in the defrost cycle. Any help is appreciated.

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  • joseph_guari Jul 15, 2009

    Hi Chuck:

    Thanks for the quick reply. I see the bi-metal switch, how do I check for continuity....there is no easy way to check for continuity with the leads being insulated. Is one end tied to the defrost heater? When you say the unit must be cold...is that frost over the entire coil? The heater resistance measure 31.1 ohms. I assume that it is good since it shows continuity. Also, i removed the heater though I cannot get it back in place. It seems that you insert the heater then rotate, though it seems to bind on the sheet metal hole just before it will orientate the contact in a vertical position. Does it just take some force to get it into a vertical position? Should there be 120V across the heater when it is in operation? There must be a voltage drop across some other component, if it is to operate at 74V. Since I do not have a schematic, I am not sure where it is. Thank you in advance for your help.
    Joe

  • joseph_guari Jul 15, 2009

    Vic:
    I am sorry for addressing you as Chuck. It has been a long day. Thanks again.
    Joe

  • joseph_guari Jul 15, 2009

    Hi Vic:
    The heater is a glass tube radiant type. I believe that I can remove the sheet metal to reinsert the phenolic support into the hole. It came out....not sure why it won't go back in...I don't want to break the heater. When the defrost timer turns on the heater, is it also controlled by the bi-metal switch or would it always be on since it is in defrost mode? I put the timer into the defrost mode....that is when I measured 74V.
    Thank you, Joe

  • joseph_guari Jul 16, 2009

    Hi Vic:
    I purchased the thermostat but have not replaced it as of yet. I started the machine 30 minutes ago. How long before the entire evaporator coil gets cold? It is not even 25% cold so far. I assume that the entire coil must be cold before I can put it into defrost cycle to see if the defrost heater turns on. If it doesn't turn on, I should check to see if the thermostat is open.....correct.
    Thank you,
    Joe

  • joseph_guari Jul 16, 2009

    Hi Vic:
    I purchased the thermostat but have not replaced it as of yet. I started the machine 30 minutes ago. How long before the entire evaporator coil gets cold? It is not even 25% cold so far. I assume that the entire coil must be cold before I can put it into defrost cycle to see if the defrost heater turns on. If it doesn't turn on, I should check to see if the thermostat is open.....correct.
    Thank you,
    Joe

  • joseph_guari Jul 18, 2009

    Hi Vic:
    The defrost thermostat was good. The defrost heater turned on as it should. The machine has been running at no load for the past day, with temperature control knob set to 5 (Fresh Food) and C (Freezer). The machine never turns off following defrost. The freezer reaches -13 F and the fresh food goes to 33 F just before the defrost cycle starts. According to mfrs specs, when operating at no load at 70 F ambient, the freezer should get down to -3 and the fresh food to 34-40 F. The percent running time should be 34-44%. I am not sure why the temperature control is not turning off the compressor. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I have a couple of old controls that I am going to try to see if I get better results for cycling the machine on and off.
    Thanks again for your help.
    Joe

  • joseph_guari Sep 19, 2009

    Hi Vic:
    Still fooling around with the fridge. I detected oil on the line that goes up the back of the box. I can send a picture if you would like to see it. Back in 1991 the compressor was replaced after the first one failed, just after 1 year in service. Work was done under warranty so no cost to me. What is funny is the compressor never shuts off. In the morning, the freezer is -10F and the fridge is 27F. I have two thermocouples taped to spoons, one in each box, and connected to a Fluke multimeter with temperature adapter. In the morning when you start to use the machine (open and close the doors) temperatures seem to start to running away. Also, at the same time if it goes into defrost and it seems that it will never get cold again. It went into defrost 5 hrs ago and the freezer is now 40F and freezer is 11F. When I removed the back panel in the freezer 4 hrs ago (removed it quickly-it is loose) and found that 1/4 of the coil (lower left-hand corner of coil) had ice on it (not as bad as I have seen it in the past) rest of coil had no frost on it. Shouldn't the entire coil be cold - the remainder of the coil is probably above 32F. My thinking is the machine runs and runs and runs, coil freeze up and then you get no cooling.....correct? I think that it is low on charge (evident by the coil leak, though I recall this situation years ago and now it seems that it is really getting bad, as far as cooling goes). There are service ports off the compressor, though they are different than those that you would find on a auto. I have access to R12 gauges and refrigerant. Can I add refrigerant to this machine to keep it going for another year? What kind of adapter do I need to allow connection to the service port and use the R12 gauge set that I have access to? Am I correct in my diagnosis? The compressor is a GE RS8B1G2. Thank you for your help in advance and sorry for the long post. Joe

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  • Master
  • 1,136 Answers

Hi, Check the bi-metal switch located at the top of the evaporator coil. It need to be teated while it is cold. If the coninuity test shows an open circuit, replace it.
Please let me know if this helps you or if I can assist you further.

Vic

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

  • 5 more comments 
  • Victor
    Victor Jul 15, 2009

    Joe, It must have 120V for the heater to operate. ne end os the bi-metal does hook up to the heater. The other end should be the power side. You should be able to insert the lead end of you meter into the connections of the wires.

    It need to be cold but not totaly frosted up.

    Is the defrost heater a glass tube radient heater?it should line up with the groves in the bracket on each end under the evaporator coil. Does this help?



    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 15, 2009

    No Problem. I have been called worse.....hehe.

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 15, 2009

    The bi-metal is a thermostat to shut the heater off when it reaches the right temp. It is in series with the timer and heater. The picture doesn't show a good pic off the heater mount. If you need to wire it up and let it hang.



    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 15, 2009

    Joe, The plastic ends on the element, are they in the metal bracket at all? It looks like the bracket should slide into a sot on the plastic ends.



    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 15, 2009

    Joe, Please let me know how things come out and feel free to rate my resopnses to you so that other as well as myself will know how I am doing.



    Thanks

    Vic

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 16, 2009

    Joe, It should be totaly covered within 2 hours. It won't get to the coldest temperature by then but the thermostat should be cold enough to test. You are gonna be a repairman yet!!

  • Victor
    Victor Jul 18, 2009

    Joe, Thsnk you for getting back with me. It sounds like the cold sontrol needs replaced. Try setting the control to 1 and see if it turns off. If it still runs, change the control.

    Please let me know.



    Vic

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