Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP79 Gas Kitchen Range
Hi, You will need to change the ignitor for the bake. It has gotten weak and will not properly opeen the gas vlave. If you remove the floor panel inside the oven, you can see the ignitor and see how it attached to the burner assembly. If you will get me the entire mdel #, I can look this up and get you part #'s.
Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
Diagnosing a non-sparking can be frustrating. With some simple understandable of how the module and related parts work, diagnosis can be made easier.
The module receives 120VAC from the ignition switches are wired in parallel, meaning that each switch can activate the module. Power (L1) comes into the first switch then jumps tot eh second, onto the third, and so on. L1 passes through the switch then outward to the module. The outgoing L1 is weird the same way as the incoming, with the exception that it goes to the spark module. With this understanding, ignition switch is turned on individually. Should one switch appear to be nonfunctional, check the switch. Should a couple of switched appear not to be working, check for loose wires between the switches. This only applies to non- reignition type systems.
The module, once it receives the L1 voltage from the switches, energizes the coils to produce approximately 12000-14000 VDC to the burners. The coil sends the voltage out via the igniter wires to the igniter where the spark jumps to the burner base. Voltage then passes through the burner to the grounding strap, through the chassis to the opposite grounding strap, to the burner base. The voltage jumps from the burner base to the igniter (that's right from the base to the igniter), passing back through the igniter wire, to the coil, thus completing the coil operation circuit. The coils in the module are balanced based on impedance or resistance. The coils are wired so that the left front and right rear burners are on one coil; the left rear and right front are on the other. Knowing about the balance and the path of the electrical flow, finding a sparking problem can be made less complicated. This only applies to the sealed burner, non-reignition system.
Now for the service diagnostics. The customer complains that the left burner is not igniting, but the other burners are sparking. The ignition switches can be ruled out since the module is receiving the L1 voltage and a spark is produced.*Since the left front burner is linked to the right rear burner, check the spark on that burner. If the spark at the right rear is a crisp blue spark, that indicates that the 12000-14000 VDC is returning to the burner. Electricity will take the path of least resistance and would rather go to the chassis than jump the gap at the burner. With this in mind, the next thing to check is for a possible grounded igniter wire or broken igniter insulator for the left front burner. let's now take a look at the opposite affect. The right rear burner is a light blue almost white spark. This would indicate not all the D.C. voltage is returning to the burner. Possible causes could be:
1) The gap between the igniter and the burner base is too large. *Should be approximately the thickness of two dimes.
2) Soiled igniter or burner base.
The above can be tested by switching the suspected burner with a known operating burner.
3) Loose wiring connections at the igniter, the grounding strap, or spark module.
4) Broken or pinched igniter wire between the burner and module.
Both of the above are physical inspections under the main top.
5) The module may have a week coil, which is not providing sufficient voltage to ignite the gas.
Hopefully this will help you diagnose erratic or intermittent sparking on your future service calls of this nature.
Changing an typical oven temp sensor.
Remove power first.
Due to productions changes and continuous improvements, it may be necessary to use an adaptor wire harness or wire nuts for a compatible connection.
Remove screws from inside the oven and pull towards you the inoperative sensor.
If the connection on the sensor or the wire harness is not applicable to your model, use two ceramic hi-temp wire nut connectors to splice the wires together. Strip insulation on each wire approximately 1/2" from the end. On some models, the sensor may be serviced from the front, on others the hole in the oven liner is not large enough for the wire nut/connector to pass through and must be serviced from the rear.
Important: Make sure the wire nuts/connectors are completely through the insulation and not touching the back of the oven cavity.
Once the wire nuts/connectors are properly positioned, reinstall the sensor screws removed earlier.
Posted on Jul 15, 2009
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 26, 2010 | GE JKP30WMWW 27" Built-in Single Electric...
Mar 29, 2010 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range
Jan 08, 2010 | GE Kitchen Ranges
Oct 29, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges
Sep 30, 2009 | GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range
Aug 15, 2009 | GE JGBP33 Gas Kitchen Range
Nov 10, 2008 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...
Sep 30, 2008 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven
Sep 28, 2013 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP79 Gas Kitchen...
102 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: