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Icemaker not working even though the water is coming in

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  • ktharris Jul 15, 2009

    THE LAST SOLUTIONS SEEM TO BE INCORRECT MY WATER HOSE IN TO THE ICEMAKER SEEMS TO BE FINE.



    QUESTION: DOES THE WATER FOR THE ICEMAKER AND THE WATER DISPENSER COME IN TO THE FRIDG IN DIFFERENT PLACES? COULD THERE BE A PROBLEM AT A JUNCTION?

  • ktharris Jul 15, 2009

    I WANT TO REJECT THE FIRST SOLUTION AND CONTINUE ASKING FOR SOLUTIONS.

  • ktharris Jul 15, 2009

    WE ARE GETTING WATER TO THE ICE DISPENSER BUT, WE DON'T SEEM TO BE GETTING WATER TO THE ICEMAKER. COULD THERE BE A PROBLEM AT A JUNCTION OR SOMETHING?

    DO YOU UNDERSTAND THAT MY UNIT IS A WHIRLPOOL ESTATE MODEL # TS25AF?

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,462 Answers

Hi,

here are some solution for the ice maker problem,

Do you have the icemaker turned on? The wire along the right side of the icemaker should be lowered as far as it goes. If this is in a raised position, your icemaker is off and the icemaker will not make any ice. Some units allow you to lower the wire to turn the icemaker on. Some models require you to lower a red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the icemaker wire is in the correct position, check the freezer temperature. It should be somewhere between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets above 10 to 12 degrees, your icemaker may not work.
A newly installed icemaker may not work until the ice mold temperature has dropped to about 15F - 16F degrees. So, if you just installed it, give it some time to cool down first. It may take up to 24 hours for a newly installed icemaker to start working initially. If you have just added a water line to the refrigerator, it may take up to about an hour and a half for the icemaker to start working. Also, a newly installed water line may have air in the line. It can sometimes take a few icemaking cycles to clear the line of air.
Make sure that there is water flowing to the icemaker. Check for kinks in the tubing, for frozen areas of the water tube, and that the household water supply is turned on. Sometimes the water inlet valve can go bad. If there is water in the icemaker, but it's not freezing, use a freezer thermometer to verify that the temperature is cold enough for it to freeze.
Make sure the copper supply line to the refrigerator is turned on under the sink, or coming from the basement.
If the freezer is cold enough, and the icemaker still won't make cubes, feel the bottom of the icemaker unit. If it is hot or warm, it is possible that the little heating element that turns on to melt the bottom of the cubes so that they can be released and harvested by the ejector blades is stuck on. You will probably have to replace the control module in this case.

I would call the manufacture or there should be instructions to check if you have power. The covering in the front of the ice maker can be removed and there should be a few little holes that are labeled either by numbers or letters. You'll need a heavy gauge wire to check to see if you have power. Please follow the instructions or call Whirlpool to use this way of checking for power.


ENJOY! RATE THIS SOLTUION

RNJ VINOD KUMAR

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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  • Master
  • 2,187 Answers

You may want to look at the ice holder or bucket if there are ice made. Otherwise you may want to check on the end of the water hose if there is water coming out it may be blocked. From the ice holder it should be pushed out for you to get the ice. Check if there are ice formations of the mechanisms. I suggest to have the ice melted and have it cleaned to see if you need to replace it or the ice may just be preventing the movements.

There are also error codes in some models below are additional info you may use.

Open the freezer and view the status led
For the status LED:

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED) - The flapper door on the emitter may be blocking the beam or the optics are faultly. Press the emitter flapper to unblock the optics beam

2 BLINKS FOLLOWED BY 1 SEC. DELAY(REPEATED) - The optics are faulty. Replace the emitter and receiver boards.

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

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