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Calcification on swimming pool

I have mineral/calcium build-up on my in-ground gunnite pool here in Arizona. Enough so that dirt that falls naturally into the pool accumulates on the sides and is now VERY difficult to sweep and vacuum. People have told me to drain the pool during the cooler months and have it acid-washed. But is there anything I can do NOW without draining the pool and during these hot months? I'm in Phoenix, and I hate to give-up my pool use now.

The hayward pool buggy barely gets the dirt off the sides of the pool now, and the vacuum is as strong as it has always been. when I put the soles of my feet on this dirt, it sweeps right away, but when I brush it or vacuum it, it has trouble due to the extreme mineralization on the pool surface. I need to get that surface smoother so the action of the vacuum works better.

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  • Ilene May 28, 2013

    Just wondering if you used the scaletec?? Did it work??? Thanks

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Size the gallonage of your pool and purchase Scaletec. Double to dose. 4 to six weeks the scale will dissolve and brush off

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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Why is my swimming pool water cloudy?


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Machine says CALCIF What does it mean?


CALCIF usually indicates "calcification" which is a buildup of calcium and other minerals. I don't believe you would normally see this indication on a microwave oven. Coffeemakers often indicate mineral buildup by indicating "DESCALE" or similar.

Descaling or removing mineral deposits in a coffeemaker usually requires running the coffeemaker with white vinegar instead of water, and no coffee ground or filter. Three or four "brewings" is usually all that is needed to remove the deposits. Simply run several more brewing cycles of clean water to rinse all the internal components of any vinegar and the job is complete.

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1 Answer

Smoothe surfaces underwater feel gritty... granular substance is adherring to the walls of the spa


Is this a gunnite spa/pool? Normally a rough surface indicates water that is too acid (I.E. pH is way low) The water wants to be 7.4 pH (7.2 to 7.6) ... and it will get there one way or the other. If this is the case in your pool, the water has taken the lime from the gunnite to satisfy the high acid level.

Please check your pH and other factors. Make sure your water is properly balanced to stop the lime migration ... Also check the calcium level ... should be around 300 ppm though it is ok as low as 175 and as high as 1000.

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1 Answer

Our ta keeps falling by fifty in like just a few hours why?


Presumably you are referring to Total Alkalinity - assuming that your test kit/procedures are OK, the reduction is caused by a build up of acidity in the water. The addition of sodium bicarbonate will neutralise the acid; the fact that the ta keeps falling suggests that you either have a large amount of acidity and you aren't adding enough sodium bicarb to complete the job, or you may be adding acid in the form of a pH decrease chemical. To raise the total alkalinity by 40ppm you need to add sodium bicarbonate at the rate of 700 grams per 10,000 litres of pool water. The desired ta is about 100ppm.
You don't say whether this is a swimming pool or a spa pool - if it's a spa pool I suggest you drain it and start with a clean slate, so to speak. If it's a swimming pool you are probably being timid with the sodium bicarb!

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Water is cloudy after shocking pool on filter then pouring in one bottle of super fall out diluted,recircjultaed for two hours shut pump off over night so flock woulsd settle to bottom , but I went out to...


Let your filter run for a couple days, you will get the undisolved solids out of the water.

Cloudy water is junk floating in the water. "Super Blue" is a product I use to make the junk stick together to be collected by the filter.

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3 Answers

Brown water


When you fill a pool with new water ... the first thing to do is remove the metals. Did you do that? This should be done with a sequestering agent ... "Metal Out" is one generic name. Treat according to the package instructions. You should treat for metal before any other product is added to the water. I believe you are seeing 'rust' from the iron in your water. The salt did it If you said green I would say you have copper or mag in the water. You may have a variety of metals in the water. Nitrates? Get rid of them ... they will eat the CL as soon as you add it. If yours is a gunnite pool, expect serious staining. To remove staining, consult your pool professional.

It is probably too late for the above ... let the CL go to zero or add some thiosulfate to kill it. Get it at the pool supply place. Use according to package instructions. Then go back to the start and add the metal out, etc.

After the metal is out of the water, you should raise the CL level - 2 to 4 PPM - using liquid or dry CL. Your filter should run 24/7. When the pressure on your filter increases 10 PSI, you should back wash - NOT BEFORE!

Check your Alkalinity ... get it to 100. When this is done (and this will not happen in minutes - it will take hours ... move slow on adding chemicals. You already saw what speedy adding of chemicals does (Brown Water)

When the Alk is 100, (use Sodium Bi Carb or dry acid for this) then adjust your pH - (use Bi Carb or dry acid for this). Your pH goal is 7.4 (7.2 to 7.8 is acceptible).

Now is the time to add salt (after your water is balanced!). There is a chart in your salt machine instruction manual that will tell you how much salt to use. Your goal should be about 3200 ppm salt. If the salt is low, you will not make CL at all. If the salt is high, you will have to dump some water to dilute back to around 3200 ppm.

You should consider adding Cyanuric Acid to your pool to around 60 - 80 ppm. Cyanuric acid will protect the CL in your out of doors pool. Just a side note, dry CL normally comes with cyanuric acid in it for stabilizing. Since you are making CL, you will need to add the cyanuric acid to protect it.

You don't say if you are gunnite or plastic ... if gunnite - you should consider your calcium level. Calcium should be around 300 ppm. (you can go as high as 1000) To much (more than 1000), you have to dulute it with water that is lower in the mineral. If there is little or none, the water will take the mineral from the surface of your pool - not good. Again, your goal is 300 ppm

This is all information that your Pool Tech guy will charge you $ for - or you can get it free from your pool chemical supply place. You also got it free here at FixYa.com from this volunteer CPO (Certified Pool Operator) question catcher. Please remember to evaluate this response.

Thank you for your interest in FixYa.com

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1 Answer

Humidifier filter clogged in one month with white residue


thanks for you question,
the residue that you are seeing is Calcium, it is a natural mineral that is found in all water, the easiest way to remove the calcium build up from your humidifier screen is to use (CLR) it is a calcium, lime and rust remover, a simple diluted mixture with water, then soak the screen for about half an hour, rinse the screen then reinstall, a soft water system would help with the calcium build up as well, but tend to be alittle on the spendy side, your could try inline mineral filters that need replacing yearly, I really hope that helped ansewr your question, let us know with some feed back, thanks again for your question, mr.grzz

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