Question about Washing Machines

3 Answers

Replaced main circut board after power surge it now shows fault code 51 when it is first turned on it flashes 54 one time and then 51 stays on

Posted by on

  • 6 more comments 
  • pickarino Jul 14, 2009

    this is an amana washing machine model lwa9oaw mfg 1998

  • pickarino Jul 14, 2009

    the washer is not conected to any water suply when it is pluged in shows the fault code51 de 51 you can not turn it off unless it is unplugedthe washer is not conected to water supply

  • pickarino Jul 14, 2009

    model lwa9oaw the washer will not do anything you can not turn it off unless you unplug it all it shows is the 51 code thanks for the help

  • pickarino Jul 14, 2009

    could the motor speed sensor control have been harmed in the power surge

  • pickarino Jul 14, 2009

    double checket the modlel num Lwa9oaw

  • pickarino Jul 15, 2009

    helllo you said a jambd washer tub we replaced the belt at the same time my brother in law replaced it and said it was smaller could this jamb the tub i tryed to turn the tub it was very hard

  • pickarino Jul 15, 2009

    no the tub is hard to turn and i am a large man 6foot2inch 260m pounds

  • pickarino Jul 15, 2009

    please is their any thing else that may cause the tub to jamb can you put the belt on wrong or bind something up

×

Ad

3 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

1. UNPLUG WASHER FROM WALL, AND THEN Tilt washer up so that back rests on the wall. You need enough clearance to get under it and for it not to fall back on you. (Can you say Squish??) YOU MUST UNPLUG WASHER TO AVOID ELECTROCUTION....

2. Using the proper size Allen wrench, slowly unscrew the screw which holds the plastic housing. It is surprisingly heavy because it contains larges permanent magnets. The housing is actually the armature of the motor. The Allen headed screw can not fall out of the armature. Keep unscrewing until it is clear that it is released. Once that is done, some small pressure back and forth on the white plastic part will help remove it from the spline shaft.

3. Get your self some paper towels as the next step may have some grease!

4. Remove the four bolts securing the coil windings (stator of the motor). There will be a top plate, Note its orientation. If you are unsure how it may go back in, use a pencil and mark it in one location on both the plastic and the steel.
In my case, after removing the four bolts, the stator was still held in place, despite its weight simply by the grease between the plates. A small amount of wiggling and the stator comes free. It has A LOT of copper wire and Iron in it, so be prepared for it weight. Do not let it hit the ground. Slowly help it come away. There is also a gray plastic protector on top of the stator, which will try to fall away on its own. Again, use a pencil to mark where it was located if you feel at all unsure about where it will go when you reassemble

5. There are a set of black plastic wire ties which press fit into the base of the basin. These easily come off by tugging gently on them and will allow you to set the Stator (the big coils) onto the ground safely.

6. At this point, you can now get to all Motor Position Sensor (MPS), which is the ultimate cause of the F51 error. Once here, you can do a few things: A. Replace it (likely not needed) B. Take it apart and clean the contacts C. Simply reseat the connector a bunch of times.

7. To remove the MPS for inspection, first remove the three wired connector with the non-brown colored wires. This just pulls away.

8. Removing the MPS requires a small amount of caution because you can damage the insulation on the stator windings if not careful. To remove the MPS, find the small plastic tabs which are on the outside of the stator and using your fingernail on each side, gently pry them away from the stator while gently lifting the MPS straight up away from the stator.

<more coming>

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jul 15, 2009

    9. Once the MPS is removed from the stator, it is now possible to remove the MPS from the wire harness. You will find it pretty easy to remove the non brown colored wires from the MPS, and then you will be able to pull the all brown MPS wire harness off the MPS.

    10. You can simply reseat the MPS harness a number of times. This will "clean" the surface of the contacts via mechanical abrasion. This MAY fix your problem.

    If you are gifted with small things, and are not afraid of damaging a pretty delicate component, you can very easily "fix" the MPS from ever bothering you again... Or at least for a very long time. THE FOLLOWING SHOULD ONLY BE PREFORMED IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING... YOU CAN EASILY PERMANENTLY DAMAGE YOUR MPS WHERE IT HAS TO BE REPLACED... AND YOUR WIFE OR HUSBAND WILL LIKELY BE VERY PISSED OFF AT YOU since it seems to take 23 days to get a new part!

    TO FIX THE MPS:
    10A. VERY carefully remove the plastic connector guide by gently lifting its catch pins while also pulling up on it.

    10B. If you have a small enough pencil eraser, you can try to get in with the eraser to run over the contacts on the printed circuit board (green thing with silver contacts) DO THIS UPSIDE DOWN SO THAT ERASE SHAVINGS DO NOT GO DOWN INTO THE PLASTIC SLOTS.

    Alternatively, using the two holes in the printed circuit board (PCB), and two small jewelers screwdrivers, you can gently and evenly pry out the PCB. This *MUST* be done evenly or you will snap the thin PCB and then buy your self a night on the couch and a new Motor Position Sensor. Carefully remove the rest of the PCB, noting its direction inside the white plastic housing. THEN take a pencil eraser to the silver contacts. If you look, you will likely see that they have become slightly pitted. This is root cause of the MPS F51 error. It is a design defect by Whirlpool in the connector technology which is used. What you are seeing is mechanical abrasion caused by the motion of the connector against the wiring harness. (Gee, washing machines vibrate, what a concept. You'd think Whirlpool would know that by now. Guess not!) The pencil eraser helps to remove built up oxidization which can substantially increase the contact resistance and lead to an apparent failure.

    10C. After cleaning the contacts, gently reinsert the PCB back into the plastic housing. Be sure not to damage the hall effect sensors when you are sliding the assembly back together. (These are the small black pieces at the end of each finger of the PCB). Handle the whole thing gently.... :) Be sure to press the PCB back into the housing firmly (GENTLY!) and be sure it is fully seated.

    10D. Replace the plastic guide for the harness. It clicks into place and really only has one direction to go.

    10E. ADDITIONAL USEFUL STEP... Using an X-acto knife (or other VERY thin object), I also very gently and carefully bent the pins on the wire harness with the brown wires inward toward the center of the harness. This will cause them to make a more permanent contact with the MPS once you reinstall it. It will also hold the connector more firmly against the contacts during vibration. (HOWEVER -- it may also lead to a faster rate of pitting on the MPS over time.)

    11. Reverse steps 9 to 1 :)

    When replacing the MPS on the stator, note that the stator has and arrow, which locates the MPS, and it also has a label for the colored wires in the correct order. Follow those to ensure you get the stator back together properly with the MPS.

    You will find it a bit challenging to get the Stator assembly (metal coils) back into place while also holding the gray plastic "top" cover. I found it easiest to hold the gray cover mostly in place, then slowly lift the stator assembly back into place. Then holding it with one hand, place a bolt through one of the holes and start to tighten it down. Make sure ALL bolts are in before you tighten any of them down.

    Getting the armature (circular white plastic housing with magnets) back on is also a bit challenging. Push it firmly on the spline shaft, then start turning the Allen wrench. You will find that once it engages, you can let go of the armature and let it "screw" back into place. Note that the Armature will get closer and closer to the gray plastic housing, and then suddenly the Allen screw will get "tight". Hold onto the plastic of the armature to resist the turning of the Allen screw, and tighten the Allen Screw a reasonable amount.

    Put washer back as it was, and plug it in.



    GOOD LUCK!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jul 20, 2009

    This follow-up contact letter is in regards to the problem you submitted to FixYa.
    Please return to your account and accept my solution If it best answered your problem -
    As unrated questions older than 7 days are credited to the first expert that attempted to answer your question...
    even If it was unhelpful or didn't address your question whatsoever.

    Thank you for using FixYa!!

×

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 77,169 Answers

I NEED THE MODEL NUMBER OF THIS WASHER, MANY OF THESE ARE MADE BY SAMSUNG, PRELIMARY DIAGNOSE IS THAT YOU HAVE A BAD CONNECTION AT THE BOARD YOU REPLACED OR A JAMMED WASHER TUB OR A MOTOR SPEED SENSOR PROBLEM

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • yadayada
    yadayada Jul 14, 2009

    yes it is possible

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jul 14, 2009

    the model number is no a valid model according to amana

  • yadayada
    yadayada Jul 15, 2009

    does the tub spin free? that is the only way to know, but a jammed/hard to spin tub will cause this code, that much i know

×

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 19,396 Answers

If this is a Fisher and Paykel, then error code 51 is faulty diverter valve


I quote from service manual:


Error51. Diverter valve timeout fault
The diverter valve is leaking water to the drain when it should be on recirculating.
Test waiting for recirculating function and observing if water is coming out from drain hose.

Possible faults

-Diverter valve.
Check diverter valve continuity. If circuit
is open , replace diverter valve.

- Motor Controller Module
Test and Replace Motor Controller Module

Diverter valve harness or connectors.
Replace wiring harness


Check tthe connections to diverter valve and to motor control unit, that may be the cause of the problem.

Regards.

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jul 15, 2009

    On your Amana F:51 means speed sensor error.

    The control board detects that the motor is not running at correct speed and gets into error mode, displaying fault 51.

    If you replaced the belt with a smaller one, that may have caused the problem. A smaller belt can cause the motor rotating at incorrect speed and this jammed the whole thing.

    If the drum now does not rotate, not even without the belt and power unplugged, the appliance may have developed an additional problem with transmission box, this because of the incorrect motor speed acting on transmission.


    Here all diagrams and parts for your appliance.

    I will be grateful if you can change the negative rating given.

    Thanks.


×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

My TV was surged so now when connected to power the standby light blinks 5 times then stops. When it starts to blink again for another five times,the screen flashes and there is a click.


Fault at its main digital board. Short circuited component/s at it. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced. If so, a software [firmware] update too might be necessary.

Sep 23, 2016 | Televison & Video

3 Answers

Four flashing red lights then one green - no picture. This hapoens when I try to turn it on, The screen stays black and has white horizontal line.


Solution
sp.gif sp.gif The STANDBY light will flash if an issue is detected within the television. This can sometimes be resolved by simply following the steps below to reset the television.
  1. Turn off the television. IMPORTANT: For a projection television that uses an internal lamp, wait 5 minutes after turning off the television to allow the lamp to cool before continuing with the following steps.
  2. Unplug the television power cord from the electrical outlet.
  3. Let the television remain without power for 60 seconds.
  4. Plug the power cord back into the electrical outlet. NOTE: If the television is plugged into a power strip or surge protector, remove it from the power strip or surge protector and plug it directly into the wall outlet. If the issue is resolved, the problem is with the power strip or surge protector and not the television.
  5. Turn on the television.
If the issue is still unresolved after following all of the troubleshooting steps, service may be required. Please note the number of times the STANDBY light flashes and relay that information to the service center.

Oct 24, 2008 | Sony FD Trinitron WEGA KV-27FS100 27" TV

1 Answer

Power surge tv turn off and on


Fault to the main power supply regulator section. Either it will be a separate board, or the part of main board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size.

Dec 06, 2015 | Zenith Televison & Video

1 Answer

Samsung un46es7100fxza. no bad capacitors. Only flashes red when plugged into main board. Only pins showing voltage on power board to main board labeled power on/off and asv. Showing 3.14v and 5.3 v.


These blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Blinking codes details to many popular brand TVs are given. Surf the site with patience.

Jul 07, 2015 | Samsung Televison & Video

1 Answer

I am getting no picture on the tv, when I turn the tv on the red standby button shows, and if I change the channel or hit the input button on the remote the standby button flashes 3times and turns off


It sounds like main board fault. These blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Blinking codes details to many popular brand TVs are given. Surf the site with patience.

Jul 06, 2015 | LG 47LS4500 47 Inch 1080p LED LCD HDTV -...

1 Answer

Why doe's my sanyo 50'' plasma tv turns itself off


You have a fault on your HV switching supply Board and/or your Vertical or Horizontal control boards. The stk 917-811A x2 (Power Modules) of them could be Faulty. You need to take your set to a Professional Tech. work shop. The cause normally is Mains Voltage surges and erratic mains supply inputs.

Apr 15, 2014 | Sanyo Televison & Video

1 Answer

My Norcold N611 frig code flashes 3 time every few second and doesn't go into A/C mode and will only go into gas mode when the switch is in auto mode and the interior light stays on even when the


The N611 will flash 3 times as an AC heater fault. If your AC heaters are ohming out properly (48 ohms of resistance), then you have a bad power board. If the AC heaters are not showing around 48 ohms of resistance, replace the AC heater. It's going to be one of the two. Here is an article on it:

Norcold Fault Codes AC HE or On light flashing 3 times What to do

Aug 16, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi Had power cut this morning and now the heat pump will not go. Green power light just keeps flashing and orange timer light on.


try turning the power off at the mains ( Isolator switch next to the unit or at the meter box.. Leave off for about 30 minutes as most AC units have a backup memory for when power goes off. Try restarting. If it still goes into a fault code mode ( flashing lights etc) there may have been damage done to the main board due to a power surge.

Jul 14, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Sony Wega stanby light blinks 5 or 6 times


When a Sony TV flashes five times, that means that there is an AKB circuit fault.
Six blinks is also a fault related to video problems, and regards a fault concerning the digital board and the Jungle IC (the main CPU).

This means that there is something wrong with the video.
Try first unplugging power for few hours, if that does not work, call a technician, as several IC and components must be tested and eventually replaced.

Nov 22, 2008 | Sony KP-51WS520 51" Rear Projection...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

110 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Washing Machines Experts

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17130 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

77169 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

16387 Answers

Are you a Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...