Freezer cold control won't turn

Ether bad compressor our bad start kit on compressor.

The water and ice maker are two seperate water control valves built onto the same. Your water control valve for the ice maker may be defective and require that you change the set. Fill ice maker with tap water and allow the water to freeze. If the ice maker dumps the ice into ice bin and then does not refill then this points to the water control valve. If the ice maker does nothing after water freezes then the problem is the ice maker. Send me a model number and I will look up the part numbers for you, Thanks, Sea Breeze

HI JOHN.both at exact same temp.sound like your motor is not running due to failure or relay or overheating due to con/fan ;cond/unit blocked or again motor.check these first good luck Ali

if tapping on control start's it up then i would replace cold control / as is see it . this is the problem . / **** hope this helped . ****

bad door seals, frosted up coils, low refrigerant, dirty/clogged condenser coils (under fridge), bad condenser fan. check the fan in the back. clean out the coils with a vacuum under the fridge. see if there is frost on the back wall of the freezer. if there is, you'll have to remove the back wall and defrost the coils with a hair dryer. check the door seals for leaks. replace if necessary. if all is well and still warm, you have a freon leak. call in the pros.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Sounds like the cold control is either lost it's ability to sense the correct temp or it is sticking. The timer usually only controls the defrost cycles. How often and how long. If tapping starts the cooling cycle, I would look there first.

Good Luck

that isn't a good model number doesn't show up on sears but if you're saying you touch the cold control and it runs then the control has to be replaced,when it stops try tapping on the control and see if it starts,the control tells it when to come on and off,they do go bad.go here and look up your model and you can see the part number,if the freezer is on top open the fridge door and look on the left side wall up near the ceiling and you should see a tag with the model number,if the freezer is on the bottom or side by side open the fridge door and look up at the right hand wall near ceiling and the tag is usually there,also there's a timer in some of these units and the timer tells it when to go into defrost and if this sticks this can also happen and they can be in the same area up in the console where the light is or like my fridge both are up top on fridge side,if you know where the timer is you can try turning it with a strait screw driver and see if it starts when you turn the timer but try to do this gently,if you tap the cover and it's the cold control you might start it lol all it sometimes takes is a light tap and the control will work again,if it doesn't start when the timer clicks from turning it just a few clicks then it will be the cold control and most probably it will be that,you can change it out,not hard,just install it the same way you take it out.

no! tap cold control to see if it starts. if the compressor is running and still not cold you either have a system leak or a bad comp.

it could be your cold control stuck turn it on and tap it a few times