Question about Dryers
Help! Dryer runs but no heat. Need to remove elec. components to have tested to see which one is faulty but don't know where they are or what they look like. Whirlpool model # LEN3434AW ?? Can't seem to find any info on this model # iether.
The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
The majority of dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked or clogged dryer ventilation ducting. Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses the exhaust ventilation. Leaving a dryer in a clogged condition will result in repeated failures of any components you may replace, and it is a fire hazard.
Before assuming you have defective components in your heating circuits, you need to verify the voltage at the wall receptacle. If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.
NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.
On your dryer all the heating circuitry is in the rear. Simply unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the lower right hand side. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit thermostat is also located on the outside of the heater box, but is located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If you go to appliancepartspros.com and type in your model number, you can view explded view diagrams of your dryer along with the parts listing. The heating element is located under Section 3 as item number 17. The TCO/Hi-Limit thermostat repair kit is listed as item 6.
NOTE: It is strongly recommended that you replace BOTH the TCO and Hi-limit thermostat if one, or the other, is defective. That is why they are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure.
You can check these components yourself by using a multimeter. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat will read 0 ohms if good. The Heating Element will read about 9 to 13 ohms. Make sure you take all measurements with the components unplugged for more accurate readings. The total cost of all your parts, combined is only about $50. Not bad if you do it yourself.
If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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