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You will need a new blower motor if the blower motor is not working. First check to see if the main breaker on the breaker panel is on and 240 volt power is available. If you have a split unit and it is installed in the attic, check to see if the overflow pan is full of water. Find the green control wire and see if it has 24 volts applied to the control card. If 24 volts are available to the control card and the blower motor is not running, you need to call a professional to check the fan control card. If 24 volts is not available to the control card in the air handler, then it may just be a loose green wire in the thermostat or maybe you may need to replace the thermostat if you you can not get 24 volts to the green wire. You can take cover off the thermostat and try jumping a small wire by touching it from the red wire to the green wire. The voltage on the control is only 24 volts on most home units. If this is a commercial unit, be cautious. I have seen 440 volt on one control system. Any voltage >50 volts is considered dangerous and you should consult a trained professional to perform the troubleshooting.
Hope this helps
check your themostat fan mode switch to see if it in on or auto. It should be in auto. If this does not stop indoor fan motor, (it may take up to 2 minutes for the fan to stop, preprogrammed shutoff in the thermostat and fan control cards may make you think the fan has not stopped ) If this does not stop the fan the fan control board in your air handler has a green wire shorting to 24 volt signal in the theromostat wire or the contact on the blower control card is stuck and will need replaced.
Hello, since you replaced the capacitor it only leaves either a bad control board or bad blower motor. If there is 120 volts to the motor then the motor is shot, however is there is no voltage to the motor then the control board must be replaced.
sounds like you might have a bad control board. try putting a jumper wire on the control board low voltage terminals R and G your fan should come on and run if you have 120v power to fan motor. double check that you do have 120 leaving board and going to motor. if no 120 bad board if you do have 120 bad motor. if it is the board it likely has a bad blower relay which is common in amana models and goodman equipment.
first thing is that if u in fact have voltage to the furnace and condensing unit check the primary and secondary sides of the transformer on the furnace. if you dont have 120 on the xfrmr test the door switch and 120 v connection to outlet. if you are good there check the secondary side of the transformer and see if u have 24 volts leaving the trans. if you have 24 v leaving the trans. you should have 24 to the stat if there is not a blown fuse on the control board. check the transformer for power. if there is power there see if theres a fuse on the control board at the furnace. if thats not blown check stat operation pull stat off and jump r to y which should engage cooling. jump r to g which should engage fan. this is all of course if u have a standard a/c and not a heat pump unit. if u can jump cooling or fan replace the stat. let me know more when u get there.
Does the indoor blower come on? If not you might have a low voltage problem in your thermostat circuit or blown breaker or fuse for your furnace which energizes the contactor outdoors. If indoor blower runs check if their are any fuses in your outdoor disconnect.
Is the blower wheel turning? Did you by chance have to remove the motor from the blower wheel to work on it? If you did, did you put the blower wheel back on in the correct direction of air flow? Also, did you put the correct capacitor back on the unit so it can get up to the required rpm's? These are things that you will need to check for. If the motor is running and the blower wheel isn't and the wheel is tight on the shaft, then you will have to replace the motor. The brushes may be bad on the unit and it's not turning the shaft. Hope these ideas help.
be sure the fan setting on the stat is set for auto, not on. in this mode the fan should only run when there is a call for cool or heat.if the fan continues to run check at the control board to see if you are getting 24 volts low voltage between green and common. if you are then the stat is bad. if youaren't then your electric control board is possibly bad. a lot of gas furnaces fall into a failsafe mode when a sensor or function fails and the blowers stay on 24 7. you may well have several problems from what you are saying. if you turn everthing off and start a new cycle for heat the first thing that should fire up is the induced draft motor , then the ignotor, then the gas valve. you can check each item with a meter , generally 120 volts to the induced draft motor, then 120 volts to the ignitior, the 24 volts to the gas valve. then ignition and 120 volts to the motor. most furnaces have a heat terminal and a cool terminal on the board. common to heat should get 120 volts on a call for heat after the sequence of operationb has taken place. 120 volts should be sent to cool terminal on a call for cool. a continueous blower is a sign of a failed safety. perhaps the motor failed and the safety opened and the motor was replaced but the safety never reset?. look at all the little micro temp sensors around the burner. they are like little breakers and need to be pushed in to reset . usually like a little stem that pops out from a metal or plastic dic. some are size of a quarter, some the size of a dime.
most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.