All the wires are hooked up and i just replaced and power wire because it was a 10 gauge to a 4 gauge. before i changed wire it worked but i blow a fuse witch caused me to change wire size. what would cause my amp to stop working now when all i did was change the wire and fuse?
The fuse may not be working, you could try a larger sized one, also if you have the old power cable try it again with a larger fuse in place, if it worked before its likely to just be the fuse wasnt big enough, check all the other connections are in the right place, if they all are and you know the amp hase worked before then it could only realy be the fuse isnt big enough or the power lead is faulty.
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Because of the year of the truck you will not have any wires pre-wired in the truck, go to a Radio Shack, car audio store or Best buy and buy yourself some speaker wire for vehicles, about 5 ft of 14 - 16 gauge yellow wire, 5 ft of 14 - 16 gauge red wire a couple of 10 amp fuses and 5ft of 4 gauge black wire.
You are going to run the Yellow, Red, Black wires together from the radio space where the radio sits in down to your steering column, the speaker wires will go to your speakers from the radio, a + and a - lead to your speakers and connect them as needed.
Now back under your dash you will connect the yellow wire from the radio to the 12 volt + wire under your steering columns 12 volt power wire with a fuse inline, if you hook up a test light to this wire it will light up the test light without the car switch being turned on, the red wire will hook up to your ignition switch wire and your balck wire to the vehicles ground chassis, basically ground that wire to a non painted surface of the vehicle. This radio needs to be hardwired like I explained.
it could be one (or more) of several issues. ensure none of the speaker wires are connected to the ground of the car, or to each other. ensure the speakers are not blown. check to see if the amp comes on ok without the speaker wires hooked up. your battery may be low - check voltage at the power terminals of the amplifier to ensure you have operational voltage. you may not have a sufficient ground connection - ensure the ground wire is less than 18 inches, is of proper gauge (minimum 10 gauge, the lower the gauge the better), and is connected to a sturdy connection going right to the ground plane of the car - make sure the paint is scraped off from under the point at which the ground wire terminal is screwed to the ground.
You should go with a 4 guage power wire kit. If your amp is going in and out
at high volume than that is your problem. 8 guage will work but, if you want
the proper current which is your power from your battery, going to your amp
than I would recomend the 4 guage amp install kit or just the main power
wire coming from your battery. If you would like contact me and I will send you
to a very good sight with all the info you will ever need for car amplifire installation.
Ideally you would use 1/0 gauge power and ground wire for the amps, and use power distribution blocks to reduce it to 4-gauge for each amp. Any smaller wire would be less than ideal for that much amp power.
If you're buying a power wire kit, it most likely won't have a separate distribution block for the ground wire (usually they have separate ground wire for each amp or one piece that's long enough to cut and have wire for both). This is fine, but you should look for a kit with at least 3 feet of ground wire per amp - any shorter and it's a struggle to mount the amp close enough to a ground point. As above, the main power wire to the battery should be 1/0 gauge.
Lastly if a 1/0 gauge kit is not available, 2 separate 4 gauge kits will work, however that's obviously a lot more wire to run and conceal.
How do you have the wires hooked from the sony reciever to the inputs on the mtx?
Sounds like your Remote wire is way too big. it should be 14 guage. It only sends a low voltage low amp signal.
Another thing that could be messing up the sounds is the routing of the wires. you should have the power supply wires separate from the Audiop signal wiring. Power should run down the Driver side and Audio down the passenger side.
One thing is take the screws out that you have used to mount it. Obviously you have drilled into bare metal. The path that you have created for the ground was not designed for that kind of current which would explain some of the heat. It warns against doing that in the manual. I have this amp myself and it heats up and cuts out all of the time still. I do not believe it is a power problem. I have a 5 Farad cap. Make sure your main ground for your car has a big enough gauge wire and also, if you can afford it, buy better battery terminals.
The power antenna wire only supplies 12vdc when the radio is on. When CD or other sources are selected, the power antenna wire goes to 0vdc. The remote turn-on wire provides 12vdc whenever the head-unit is on. If your amps are powered on only when the radio is turned on, I would bet that you have the power antenna wire connected and not the remote turnon wire.