Amana 80sse furnace fire up work for about 10 min. It goes in lockout and inducer motor stay on

If the capacitor only has one wire connected, reattach it.

Having a hard time with that 80SSE model number. This has a wiring diagram. There are lots of service manuals.

https://manuals.plus/amana/single-stage-gas-furnaces-and-accessories-manual#wiring_diagrams

https://www.google.com/search?q=amana+80sse+wiring+diagram

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Most likely one of two issues is occurring. Either the inducer fan is not providing enough draft because it is either spinning too slowly or the impeller is damaged, or the pressure switch that the inducer motor air flow is supposed to activate is not operating properly. If the pressure switch fails to activate, the furnace will not open the gas valve and fire the ignition believing that there is not sufficient draft the vent the combustion gases.

Check the pleum high limit switch. Jump this control out and see if the furance runs until the call for heat is satified. Do mot leave the high limit jumperd.

Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Check the draft inducer air switch ( vacuum diaphragm switch) If the switch is opening when the burner starts, you might have a blockage on air piping coming into the furnace. Also prime the condensate trap on the condensate drain from the combustion fan. Also check the gas pressure, if your gas pressure is dropping, the gas pressure switch will shut it down. If it's too high the moment it comes on could raise the pressure in the furnace dropping out the combustion fan proving switch.

This more often than not, indicates that your pressure switch is gone and needs to be replaced. Watch the YouTube video for a fuller explanation and heed the warning to use OEM parts! Gas Furnace Pressure Switch Failure and Replacement Amazon com gas furnace parts

Yes, look for manual resettable limits on your exchangers (where the flame goes into), or just check for continuity with meter. There is also an auxilary limit on exhanger cabinent, take those two wires off and plug in a paper clip, restart furnace, if it works replace the limit. You can do the same with the manual reset one, paper clip the two wires and bypass the limit. Don't leave this bypassed for long, it protects your furnace from fire hazard, replace asap.

Ths is an easy problen to solve. Looking close to the burners is a pilot sensor. It looks like a thin metal pin about 1" 1/2 long. Clean this with sandpaper. This will allow you furnace to stay lit.

Hope this helps,

RepairUSA

Not much info to go on, but lets look at a few possibilities. Your thermostat could be turned to the ?Fan On? setting, make sure you put it in the ?Auto? mode. Or it could be bad, or there could be a short in the wiring. Open up the access panel on your furnace. Lets eliminate the thermostat from the equation by disconnecting the red, white and if you have a yellow wire at the furnace. Mark down which wire went where. The furnace will have a door safety switch that will have to be taped temporarily closed to test the furnace. With a short piece of wire (2-3" long), strip off 1/2 inch of the insulation on both ends. Secure one end on the R terminal where you removed the red wire from your thermostat. Take the other end and touch the G terminal on the same electrical board. Your fan will start. Don't worry about an electrical shock, the voltage is only 24 volts. Now with one end still attached to the R terminal, touch the W terminal where the white wire was attached. The furnace will now try to fire up. Hold it there until you see that it did start. If you did this and had success, I would say it was your thermostat or the wire going to it. Last resort would be a bad control board. If you want, you can do test your thermostat wiring by removing the thermostat from it's mounting plate. Put all wires back where they were on the furnace. Make sure the access door is back in place and secure. Take that same jumper and jump across the red and white wires on the mounting plate. Again the furnace should start up. Have a helper jiggle the thermostat wires where accessible when the furnace is running and see if it remains on or shuts off. If everything checks out, replace the thermostat. Good Luck!