Question about Jenn-Air JCD2290HES Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i'm thinking that maybe an air duct is either blocked or the damper isnt opening. In the freezer compartment at the top right side there is a cover that is held in place by 1 screw. (look at item number 35 here). remove this cover and make sure ice is not blocking it up. if that is ok, then check the damper control to be sure it is opening and closing properly. The damper is located on the refrig side in the control cover (look at item# 8 here).
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
Ill be glad to shed some light on this for and stand behind this as I too am a Factory authorized dealer. These units did come with faulty compressors failing about 80% of the time. What happens is the compressors get worn and stop starting properly. You can make them work temporarily by installing a 3n1 (basically makes the compressor have more starting torque). However they eventually get so worn that even a 3n1 cant start it. Ive never read any bulletins from any major company (Frigidaire used this same compressor) saying a 3n1 voids warranty. It certainly didnt damage the compressor it was already damaged when the tech installed the 3n1. Also these compressors are failing at such a high rate its not even questionable that the 3n1 damaged anything. Honestly it really sounds to me like the tech is nit-picking not wanting to do the labor intensive job of changing the compressor. He may not even be able to. Also the new compressor should be a 8201555 (I just did one this afternoon ---thats how common this is) and its a much more reliable Embraco compressor. Once its installed you should have no more compressor issues for many years. Feel free to have anyone who questions my solution to call anytime 850-510-9563 (Joey Shearer, Precision Appliance, Tallahassee, FL)
Posted on Jan 15, 2008
You may end up respraying the door, but here goes.-
First mechanically remove as much of the rust as you can with an old screwdriver or similar scraper. Then use coarse emery cloth - 80 -120 grit untill all you're left with is shiny metal with rust pits.
You may need to go out further than you think - about 1" all round.
Then use a paint- on de-rusting fluid from vehicle products supplier. When all rust is black or dissapeared, use a zinc primer on all the bare metal. (this will stop it reacuring)
Then either spray the area with an "appliance white" aerosol or squirt it into the cap, and use a paintbrush.
If you are spraying it, open all house windows and doors, cut a mask from newspaper- then tape it to the fridge. Use blankets , plastic dustsheet or old sheets to protect things, and spray it from 12" in several very light coats.
When done, "polish" with T cut - which should remove the rust stain too.
Seal the area of the original leak with a white or clear silicone - and sort the original leak out.
If you polish the plastic with a silicone spray, water will tend to stay put rather than seep.
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
it sounds like a bad: start
switch (on the side of the compressor) or compressor itself the start switch
clicks off usually when the compressor
is pulling too many amps or the compressor is overheating. if the compressor is
not even running then its probably not overheating.
so either the compressor is pulling too many amps (bad compressor) or the start switch is bad and cannot handle the amps required to start the compressor.
Posted on Aug 08, 2008
I believe I solved my own problem. First, I defrosted the coils on the freezer side. This is done by turning off power to the refrigerator and using a hair drier to defronst. This takes about 20 minutes. To open the panels, unscrew the top two hex head screws just slightly. Then unscrew the next lower two hex head screws all the way and remove two panels revealing the frosted coils and the fan. It is easy to unscrew these using a screwdriver-type wrench. As the defrosting takes only a short time, I did not have to throw away any food. We have this same refrigerator in two houses, main house and vacation house, and I have used this method a couple of times on each refrigerator. The problem arises when, in warm weather, someone leaves the door open. One time it happened because a cardboard case of 12 oz sodas was preventing the door from shutting all the way. For that particular box, which is used in CocaCola products, you have to put the back of the box over the top of the shelf ridge; otherwise the box protrudes a bit too much in the front.
The above method did not work completely the last time I tried it. There was a warm spot in the middle of the rifrigerator side while the freezer side worked okay. To fix this new problem, after checking all coolness settings, I removed the assembly in the top of the refrigerator side--the control temperature control unit. The temperature control assmembly is mechanical and consists of just two levers that control the flow of air from a vent in the upper left corner of the refrigerator side. (My unit has the freezer on the right hand side.) The levers (for refrigerator temperature and freezer temperature) just open and close the vent. Another vent on the left middle of the refrigerator side controls flow to the middle. I had already opened this. When I loosened the temperature control assembly (four hex-head screws and two Phillips-head screws), I discovered that a piece of styrofoam had lodged in the air passageway between the freezer section and the refrigerator section. I removed this.
Unfortunately, I inadvertently broke off a plastic tab holding the canopy that covers the temperature control assembly. This caused me to do a lot of swearing. Nevertheless, I overcame the problem by purchasing a small shelf support that screws into the rear panel of the refrigerator. These are available on-line or from an appliance store. To avoid breaking off the tab, gently pull the canopy forward to allow the tabs on each (rear) side to be disengaged through two rectangular holes in the canopy. Gently work the tabs through these two holes.
After working on the canopy for awhile, I was afraid that the freezer coils may have gathered some ice. If so, I would have to re-defrost these. All was okay though.
One more thing: be sure that there is room for air to flow near the top shelf of the refrigerator. Stacking up too many things on that shelf deflects the airflow. When trying to get the refrigerator side working correctly, I removed everything from this top shelf. Cooling was perfect, so I added a few items to the top shelf, and everything continued to work just right.
Yet another thing: I figured out that the noise I had noticed came from the filter bottle that had outlived its usefulness. Rather than buy another filter bottle, I just ordered two dummy filters. I have given up on the actual filters because they cost $50 apiece and last for about four months. I can't taste the difference either in Los Gatos California, or Tahoe City, California. Of course, I had thrown away the dummy filters for my two refrigerators, but I was glad to see that these can be ordered on-line.
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
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