When switching on its tripping the house power circuit. Is it a failed element? If so how do I test which one?

It may be the power circuit breaker. I had a similar problem with my oven and it turned out to be a loose connection to the breaker. Try plugging the fridge in to another power outlet.
KA

These units are totally repairable and will run for ever. Need to assume that other damage has occurred as a result of the failed shorted terminal connections.

Possible that the circuit breaker is defective caused by the dryer failure.

Assume that one of the components has shorted to the grounded frame of the dryer.

The 11 ohms of the heater is about right.

Confirm that heater element is not shorted to the dryer frame (heater housing)! This condition would have caused the initial wire terminals to fail and now trip the circuit breaker!

Use an ohm meter and check resistance between hot leads on back of dryer. Check resistance between each hot and neutral.

There is a switch located on the motor that connects power to the heater. When the motor is running the centrifugal switch closes. This saftey circuit confirms that the blower is running before heat is turned on. Check that the switch is not damaged from prior terminal short circuit failure, Repair kit is p/n WPL-501218

Timer is the next check. Same thing confirm that no damage to the switch circuits has occured. Last check thermal fuses and thermostars for short to netural.

Hope this helps?

Yes, a fuse or circuit breaker could be the reason that the oven is not getting power.
However... whenever a fuse or circuit breaker protects a circuit it does so because of an over-current condition. Whenever you encounter a tripped breaker or blown fuse you must ask "why?"
Does anything work on the stovetop? Does the broiler work but not the lower element?
If any part of it works, it's not the fuse or breaker.
Here are the typical reasons that an oven stops working:

1. Failed heating element. Heating elements do give out after they've been used for a while.
2. Failed wiring connector. Connectors get hot and can corrode. Make certain that all of the connectors are in good condition.
3. Failed control switch. Switches take a beating. Have yours tested if you can't find anything else wrong.
4. Failed thermostat. The thermostat is constantly cycling on and off to maintain temperature. Eventually the contacts will fail.

Start by testing for 240 V at the outlet.

Your issue is as follows:
"the dryer works but there is no heat to dry the clothes.

Based on the information provided above, I am unable to provide a positive solution to your issue.

Following this LINK, provides valuable D.I.Y. safety information on the make and model number of your appliance. In order to access your product information, you will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User's Manual.

Note: A volt-ohm meter is beneficial in performing electrical tests.

This information is for an electric, generic model dryer only!

My Solution is:
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Temperature Switch; make sure a positive heat selection has been made, if still no heat, then check these:



Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house: Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element: Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse: On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring: A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

This is most likely an electrical fault in the oven (or switch). As it is potentially dangerous - have it tested before using again.
The RCD trips out because an earth fault has occurred If it did not, the entire cooker may have become live- so it saved your life really.

It may not be as serious as this - when heating elements fail, they can short to ground -(the outside case of the element)
If this is the case - only one element will be at fault.
Test by switching on one element at a time - untill it trips again. In this case - replace that element.

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Y'ou are zeroing in on your problem. Read the info below and hopefully you will have your answer:
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

No heath can be caused by a faulty element, a faulty thermistor, thermal fuse/ circuit breaker, or a problem with control switch.

See here There's no heat:

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.From Repairclinic

You can also find diagrams and spares here.

If you need to call a repairman use the phone number listed on the owner manual.

http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_8_1.asp#Level1_1
If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:

Power from the house
Door switch
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"