The power light on the back of the unit lights but nothing on the display, won't turn on, won't do anything. is there a way to test the motor etc. Thanks

Replacement Parts for Fitness Exercise Equipment at SPORTSMITH

ERR1 Definition: The display board CPU didn't receive the optic sensor signal. • Explanation: After processing by the drive board, the optic sensor signal travels the 16-pin cable to the display board CPU, which determines motor speed. Components involved include the optic sensor, optic sensor wheel, 16-pin cable, drive board, display board, and connections.

ERR1 Condition: Press speed key; walk belt doesn't move; ERR1 appears. 1. Drive Board a) Inspect drive board components for signs of damage, like bulging, burnt or cracked spots. b) Inspect connections to the drive board, including the ribbon cable (at the display and drive boards), drive motor, incline motor, etc. loose connections are a common cause of ERR1. c) Check the drive board lED Turn on the unit. The should be lit. The EMG indicator should light up and then extinguish after the unit powers up. A lingering EMG light indicates drive circuit trouble, but it can also light up if drive board connections to motors and other components aren't secure. d) Test whether the drive board is sending power to the motor. Put the muttimeter to the DC setting. Disconnect the motor M+M- wires from the drive board. Place probes on the drive board M+ M- terminals. Put the treadmill safety key in place; turn on the power; walk on the treadmill so that the ClK lED lights (this preempts the display from detecting no optic sensor signaling and immediately giving you an ERR1 message, thus allowing you to get a power reading); press the speed up key. The meter should show some voltage. If there's no voltage, inspect the ribbon cable and display board. If they appear OK, suspect the drive board. e) Test drive board components for a short. See Components in the Basic Electronics. 2. Ribbon Cable a) Check the ribbon cable and its connections. Link a spare cable from the drive board to the display board, outside the unit. Test the unit. If it works with the spare cable, replace the original cable. b) Or, if you don't have a spare ribbon cable, test ribbon cable continuity. Wrap solder wire around each probe so you can insert probes into the ribbon cable connector, testing one wire at a time for continuity. 3. Display Board a) Press down on the display board ICs. If you have a working unit of the same kind, swap the display board onto this unit. Test. If all works well and no ERR message appears, replace the original display board. a) Reed Switch (Applies to models with magnetic safety keys only.) Put the safety key in place over the reed switch. Put the meter to the 200 Ohm setting. Place probes on both ends of the reed switch. Meter should show 0 Ohm. If the meter doesn't get a reading, replace the reed switch. 4. Treadmill Motor a) Rotate the motor. It should rotate smoothly. Grinding or sticking indicates wear. b) Check the motor brushes. Uneven wear indicates worn brushes. Minimum brush length: 1/2 inch. Turn the brushes around and reinsert them. Rotate the flywheel. If the motor grinds or sticks, put brushes back in their original position. c) Check motor resistance: Turn off unit. Disconnect the motor M+ M- cables from the drive board. Put multimeter setting to Ohms. Place probes into the motor wire M+ M- ends. Normal reading: 1 Ohm. Move the flywheel slightly and take another reading. Take a few readings, moving the flywheel slightly after each. Readings should be consistent. If the meter shows OL at any test point, replace the motor. 5. Transformer a) Put the meter to the AC setting. Place the meter probes on the transformer output wire connectors on the drive board. Turn on the unit. There should be output voltage. If not, replace the transformer. • 11XX/12XX brown-brown: 10.5VAC • 31 XXl32XXl61 XXl62XX white-white: 12.5 VAC • 6005 yellow-yellow: 11.0 VAC If ERR1 is not resolved, see ERR1 with walk belt movement. • • • • ERR1 Condition: Press speed key; walk belt moves; ERR1 appears. 1. Tachometer Wheel Make sure the tachometer wheel: a) Rotates in the middle of the optic sensor. b) Is clean and free of cobwebs and dust. c) Doesn't have broken or bent teeth. d) Is fastened securely on the motor bracket If the wheel has visible damage, replace it. 2. Optic Sensor Make sure that the optic sensor signal is getting to the drive board. a) With power on, turn the drive motor. The CLK indicator (an lED on the drive board) should light. This means that the optic sensor signal is reaching the drive board. If the ClK indicator doesn't light, replace the optic sensor. b) Push the treadmill belt while pushing speed up key. If ERR1 doesn't appear until you stop pushing the belt, and the display speed values increase, then the optic sensor is good. (On units without a ClK indicator, check optic sensor output voltage: (a) put probes on optic sensor output (b) turn the motor (c) if voltage doesn't vary, replace the optic sensor.) 3. Ribbon Cable a) Check the ribbon cable and its connections. Link a spare cable from the drive board to the display board, outside the unit. Test the unit. If it works with the spare cable, replace the original cable. b) Or, if you don't have a spare ribbon cable, test ribbon cable continuity. Wrap solder wire around each probe so you can insert probes into the ribbon cable connector, testing one wire at a time for continuity. 4. Drive Board Check whether drive board components are burnt or cracked. Check component connections. A drive board power component short usually results in a huge burst of power, making the walk belt speed dangerously, before ERR1 appears. If the walk belt moves before ERR1 appears, but not very, very fast, suspect the optic sensor. 5. Treadmill Motor a) Rotate the motor. It should rotate smoothly. Grinding or sticking indicates wear. b) Check motor resistance. Turn off unit. Disconnect the motor M+ M- cables from the drive board. Put multimeter setting to Ohms. Place probes into the motor cable M+ M- ends. Normal reading: 1-2 Ohm. If there's no reading (OL), replace the motor. c) Check the motor brushes. Uneven wear indicates worn brushes. Minimum brush length: 1/2 inch. Turn brushes around and reinsert them; rotate the flywheel by hand. If it rotates worse than before, put brushes back in their original position. d) High amp draw can indicate a bad motor. Other factors would be a worn walk belt and deck. Run unit power through a current meter. Tum on the unit. Normal amp draw at 3 MPH with no load on the walk belt is 1/2 to 1 Amp. 6. Display Board ICs Make sure that IC contacts on the display board are good. Press firmly on the ICs. Make sure you have the latest CPU version. If ERR1 is not resolved, see ERR1 no walk belt movement.

Treadmill Parts for SportsArt Belts Motor Brushes SPORTSMITH net

When you press the buttons do they change anything on the screen? If yes then you have a bad controller, if no you have a bad console.

Have you checked the door switch to make sure it is closed when the door is closed?

Try turning off the laptop, unplugging it, pulling out the battery and holding power down for 30-60 seconds. After that's done, put the battery back in, plug it back in, and turn it on.

Sounds as if the control board took a power surge.

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do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

you have a piece of solder broken off the controller of your hvac unit, causing power not to get to the blower motor it self. take test light and see if you have power at the blower motor. check and see if you have continuty or brake between the power wire at the blower motor and at the hvac control unit. if wires are good then the problem will lie in the hvac control unit. check and see if the blower is working at all speeds, if it works on some speeds thens the blower motor resistor.

sounds like a main fuse or a fusesable link

Unplug the unit and remove the motor shroud insert plug back in the outlet.The single most cause of no motor output is failure of the DC motor control. Look for any test lights on the power boards beneath the motor hood.If it operates on an open-loop system, the computer will run normally and not give and error code, but the motor will not turn. If you have a multimeter, you can test to make sure you have DC output from the controller spades if not replace the control board. If you have DC output, but motor is not turning the test the motor itself.
Cordless drill battery- get a fully-charged, 18 volt (preferred) cordless drill battery and on most treadmills connect the red and black motor leads to the battery (some have different colors but if you have two wires and get it hooked up backwards, the motor will just run backwards and won’t be harmed). If good, the motor should operate at about 1 MPH.
Car battery- these are 12VDC high amp batteries so the motor will turn slowly but you can walk on the belt. Always be careful with battery acid on these things so we don’t recommend bringing them in the house…take the treadmill to the battery.
Lantern battery- a fully charged lantern battery should operate your motor at a slow speed but lacks the amperage to have someone walk on the belt. If it does not rotate replace motor

check starter solenoid.see if getting power to starter side when pressing button .if yes check if power to starter w/ test light when pressing button.if power there check starter,also motor, will it turn manually or is it seized.if no power to starter side of solenoid, jump across solenoid posts w/ a large screwdriver -motor will probaly turn over,w/ key on.if small wire to solenoid has power when pressing start,solenoid bad,if no power, wiring or start button bad.