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Pilot ignites light but gas does not flow just after the first time cycle completed with burner heating up the air as it was espected. I did termostat change but the problem persist.

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Sounds like the warp switch is bad.

Posted on Jul 14, 2009


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1 Answer

Gas smell when igniting burner.

Hi Jerry

Warning : Gas systems are generally safe but any gas smell should always be investigated by a certified technician as you can never be too safe.

That being said, let me try to assist you as best I can from my experience with gas appliances.

If the smell has been there since you bought the unit, it is probably the pilot you are smelling. Generally, a pilot light is first ignited using either an electro-mechanical switch or using electricity to create a spark.

While ignition is taking place, a small amount of gas is allowed to flow through the ignition pilot nozzle. The spark is meant to ignite the pilot flame. When the pilot flame is lit, a thermocouple is heated up and then allows gas to flow to the main burners. The gas in the main burners then ignites directly from the pilot flame. This is generally how gas burners work but there are many types of equipment and not all of them work on the same principles.

Generally when you smell gas before igniting the main burner but detect no smell after the main burner is on, it has to do with problems in the ignition stage. This could be caused by a number of things but often the ignition probe is the problem. The ignition probe arcs a spark between two probes or between a probe and the burner which is meant to ignite the pilot gas nozzle (or in some cases ignites the main burner directly). Everytime this spark is made, a small amount of carbon forms at the connection point of the sparks. The carbon can build up over time and cause difficulty sparking the ignition of the pilot burner. Spilled food can also cause this or speed up the buildup of carbon.

If the gas can't ignite the pilot immediately, the pilot keeps allowing gas to pass into the air until ignited which is what you could be smelling. Check to see how long after you try to start the burner does it actually ignite. More than a couple of seconds and you will be smelling the gas that escaped without being burned off.

You can try disconnecting the unit from mains power and cleaning the ignition probes on each burner. If the unit has a mechanical starter you should take extra care not activate it during cleaning as you could get a electric shock. Clean the probe with a damp cloth or paper towel and don't use any cleaning agents.

If this does not eliminate the smell you are getting before ignition, you should get a technician to test the unit. The explanation above is also very general as I don't know what specific system you are using so use the explanation given as general knowledge only and get a technician to perform the repairs.


Jul 17, 2016 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Light pilot reset

If yours is a high-efficiency furnace, you should hear the stack blower start running when your thermostat calls for heat. Next, the igniter should start to glow and remain glowing until the thermocouple opens the gas valve and allows gas to flow to the main burner. The main burner lights and burns until sufficient heat is generated for the main blower to turn on and blow warm air through your house. If any action does not occur in the order described, repairs are in order.

Dec 08, 2013 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Napoleon Fireplace propane Pilot won't light main burner even though gas flows in?

  • I'm going to assume your fireplace has a pilot light.
  • Follow the little holes in the burner that lead to the pilot light.
  • Make sure the pilot flame is pointing directly at the closest burner hole. (adjust if necessary).
  • Often, you will need to sprinkle a layer of "glowing embers" in this area. The embers will help the gas travel to the pilot light and ignite.
  • Always start your propane appliance on "High" never "Low". Cold propane likes to drop to the bottom of the firebox and accumulate until it reaches the pilot (this is called delayed ignition). Keeping it on "high" will help the fuel travel over to the pilot without buildup.

Jan 21, 2013 | Napoleon 36" Zero Clearance Top/Rear Vent...

1 Answer

Hotpoint gas stove. burners work, oven and broiler do not.

Probably the safety valve. This unit broils and bakes off the same gas burner. A spark ignitor lights the pilot and this save gas because no standing pilot is needed. It takes a few minutes for the thermocouple bimetal combo to release the gas. When the temp gets to the desired rate then the bulb on the oven control closes off the flow of gas. To recap: The flow of gas comes from a regulator along a rail which supplys the gas to the top burners and the oven control. older models had pilot light tubing going down to the oven and to the top burners. This newer style uses a spark module to light off the top burners and the oven. So when yall turn the the oven on the spark ignitor lights the pilot first and then after the mercury bulf thermocouple heats up the bimetal inside the valve opens allowing gas to flow out to the pilot and ignite the gas burner. the temp rises and the mercury bulb oven control expands closing off the flow but not the gas safety valve. I would suspect the safety valve on this one.

May 09, 2011 | Hotpoint RGB528 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Lighting pilot light

Pilot assembly is located inside the bottom compartment, between the the two middle burners while the gas valve is located under the burner manifold. Make sure that the gas line where the unit is connected is open. You need to turn the gas valve knob to "Pilot" position and depress it (to allow the gas to flow on pilot) then light the pilot assembly using a lighter with extended nozzle ( burner igniter). Once the flame is present at the pilot assembly, wait for about 15 seconds (allowing thermopile to heat up) the gradually release the gas valve knob. If the pilot flame is stable, turn the gas valve knob to "ON" position and set the thermostat to desired temperature setting. This will ignite the burners and heat up the oil to set temperature. Just remember, do not do this if there is no oil on fry tank.

Feb 18, 2011 | Pitco Frialator 35CS Deep Fryer

1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?

If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Carrier furnace ,burner not staying on after 4th try shuts down completely.cleaned the flame sensor but noticed the 3rd and 4th burner has a delay in lighting by the time the 4th burner lights and hits the...

Remove them and scrub them with a wire brush.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 10, 2010 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

2 Answers

Gas heater won't ignite

I agree. Either the pilot flame is dirty and is not making good contact to heat up the bi metal strip on the pilot assembly, or the pilot assembly is defective. 90% of the time if you clean the pilot orfice and the pilot burner it will take care of the problem

Nov 16, 2009 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

2 Answers


Most problems with gas ranges have to do with the flame—either it isn't quite right or it's nonexistent. Many new gas ranges have "electronic ignition," a spark igniter that starts the flame as gas flows through the burners f, when you turn on a burner, it fails to spark but you hear sparking at other burners, the igniter or the burner switch probably needs replacement by an appliance repairperson. If your range has a pilot light, be sure the pilot light is lit.

have nice time..!! arte the solution!!

Apr 17, 2009 | DCS 24-24G-1 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj

A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

Feb 13, 2009 | Imperial Commercial Cooking Equipment...

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