Janitrol air handler blowing out tepid air - Dry overflow pan
This has been happening for about three weeks. Called out the installer - he drained the pan and said he unclogged the drainpipe, also added a p-trap to the end of the drainpipe. Worked for a day. Called him again - he basically did the same thing. A friend ended up rigging a sort of p-trap right where the condensate comes out of the air handler. We also uncapped the secondary drain opening (when it was closed, the p-trap didn't help, but when we opened it, it immediately started draining). It's worked for two weeks, but today it's back to blowing tepid air (set to 78 degrees, but thermostat stays at 81). Checked the overflow pan - it's totally dry. Could it be freon? Any suggestions would help. Thanks!
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Re: Janitrol air handler blowing out tepid air - Dry...
Sounds like you have airflow issues, the static pressure is such that the siphon action of the trap cannot overcome the static pressure caused by the blower, have you put a new high efficiency filter in the system? It is very rare to have to install a trap in a central unit... if the compressor is operating, a quick check for charge is the suction line, (the large copper line outside) will generally be cold and wet, you should also feel hot air discharging from the unit outside.
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A very common problem that can cause unit to not turn on, assuming you have checked breaker on and no other mechanical problems, is the float switch on the overflow pan. Check you overflow pan for excess water. If this is your problem, your normal drain is clogged and needs to be unclogged.
Another problem that sometimes causes the controls to turn off, is the fuse blows on the air handlers control card due to some control circuit is pulling to much power and blows the fuse. If this is the case you will need an experienced techician to find the cause of overcurrent. It could be but not limited to solenoid coils on main contactor or reversiing valve. It could be a shorted control wire or shorting thermostat wire. Hope this helps.
The thermostat is the device that determines when the A/C unit starts up. It will require a 24v source (transformer most likely in the air handler) to provide power for the control. If the 24V is present, and the t-stat is calling for cooling, then there is probably a safety device preventing it from starting.
One such common safety device is a water level or "float" switch that detects water level in the pan under the air handler. These are most often found in homes that have the air handler in the attic space. Normally, these pans a dry or have a a few dropsof watrer in them. Condensate is created when warm, humid air is passed over a cold coil. It is collected and routed outside. If there is a problem getting the condensate down the drain pipe in the air handler, it will drip out of it onto the attic floor. This is why a shallow pan is installed under the air handler. The pan will collect the condensate and is piped outside and down to the ground. If the pipe has become clogged - preventing draining - the water would overflow the pan and ruin the ceiling in the space directly below. The float switch prevents the signal from the thermostat from turning on until the water has drained to a safe level.
Check the pan - if it is empty, the switch may have been distrubed and actuated - even though there is no water in the pan. Operated the switch to make sure it can move freely. There may be other safety devices inline like the float switch. You'll need to follow the circuit and find where it is being interrupted in order to make the repair / correction.
You need to find out if your drain has an out let outside and vacuum it out with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise you will have to cut the drain line inside and vacuum it out there, The ac supply houses sell a twist and turn clean-out tee that makes it easier to clean your drains.
Hi, here is the theory on the reset button on Air Conditioners. They reset via the breaker panel box in your house. Check that first before anything else. However if your unit is popping breakers, it is because the rating for the breaker is incorrect, or there is something that needs servicing usually in the outside unit called the condenser. That piece contains the compressor. A faulty compressor and pop the breaker. Or If the condenser fan that blows over the coils of the outside unit stops (common failure) The compressor will overheat and shut down. That may not trip the breaker but the house will get hot anyway. Usual action for this is to replace the condenser fan motor and starting capacitor. Make sure the speed rating and directional rotation for the replacement motor is the same as the motor removed. There are other reasons why the system won't come one fully. If the wall thermostat is digital and does nothing. including turning on the fan. There will be a small fuse located on the circuit board of the air handler (part of Air Conditioner mounted inside the house. It houses the circulation fan). That fuse could be blown. That one shuts down just about everything. On air handlers mounted up into the attic crawl space there is an overflow pan. This pan is mounted directly below the air handler. This pan can fill with water when the drain pain contained inside the air handler starts to overflow because the drain system to that is clogged. There is a "float switch" mounted in the overflow pan wired to the system in such as way as to shut down the entire AC system if that pan fills. The handling is to clear the obstruction in the Drip Pan inside the air handler. Then remove enough water from the overflow pan and the AC will run as though nothing has happened. If you have more questions, write to me on this site. One thing more. The capacitor alone in the Outside condenser unit can fail and that will stop the condenser completely if it is of a "split" design and used for both the compressor and fan. When replacing this unit alone, ALWAYS find the same specification part. I hope this helps, Have a Happy New Year, Mark
verymuch so it is clogged up , now open system treat drain pan with bleach ,blow out two lines if there are available but if theres only one treat that on ,then treat the coils clean an treat them after cleaning pour little bleach in the bottom of the pan
The overflow tray should be on the indoor air handler, just below the connection of the white PVC drain line. It will require a 5/16 or so nut driver to remove the panel to get to the pan. It may be clogged in the pan where the drain connects or any part of the drain that is attached to it. Do you have any compressed air?
The condensate drain line/pan is clogged causing the condensation to overflow the pan.
The easy way to fix that is attatch a powerfull wet/dry shop vac to the end of the drain line and such out whatever is causiing the clog. Also take off the panel to the evaporator coil and clean out the pan with the shop vac.
To double check that the clog has been removed, pour a gallon or two of water into the pan and ensure that it is draining properly.
sounds like the overflow drain is picking up the water that means the main drain is clogged.you need to find the main drain pipe if lookin at the air handler in attic there should be 2 drains from unit one higher than other follow it and blow out drain they put the other overflow drain out the eve so if it stars leaking someone notices it and it doesnt damage cieling but it sound like it needs imediate attention befor it does go to the overflow pan and damage your cieling. i hope this helps and good luck
the air handler is in the attic or in a closet right? most likely the drain switch mentioned is in a pan located underneath the air handler, the switch is actuated when the condensation drain tube is clogged, ( when it cannot drain the water out of the pan), the float switch is actuated and the unit shuts off to prevent any more condensation, thus preventing overflow into your house/apt. the drain line can be sucked out by using a simple wet/dry vacuum of any kind from the end of the drain line ( usually a 3/4 inch PVC pipe located somewhere outside ).