Frost build up on back on freezer, I had to manually defrost, no ice was being made and can't get temperature to stay set. Normally have it on 36 fridge and 1 freezer

Ice is made when freezer temperature is cold. Freezer and refrigirator will not cool if iced up on back wall. Your defrost system failed, causing frost buildup on the coils and restricting airflow and heat transfer. Most likely cause is a defective defrost timer that is not advancing into defrost (2-3 times every 24 hours). Defrost system comprise Timer, Heater, and Thermostat. You need the tools to diagnose the cause or just try one by one to replace the parts. Other choice is to call a tech. The freezer must be defrosted one time manually to remove the long accumulated frost.

Hello,

Clearing the ice build up is a good start,the problem though is the drain pan under the coil in the freezer thats iced up is blocked so when the defrost heater comes on and melts the frost from that coil,it the water is collecting in the freezer and in many cases drips into the fresh food compartment,clearing the drain will resolve your leaking/ice build up issue.THE DEFROST HEATER IS GOOD melting the frost in the first place and hence forth that melted frost stays in the freezer and becomec ice.

Gene

Hi,

Normally when frost build up occurs it's because warmer outside air is getting into the freezer and the moisture from that warm air cools and condensates then freezes into frost or ice. You either have a bad seal like the other listing states try leveling the front a little higher than the back. Or you may have an issue with the defrost heater, thermostat or timer. Do you have a light that comes on from time to time? If so you have an auto defrost unit. If there is no light you may not have a frost free freezer which means you will have to remove the frost manually.

Please check the bellow links for your knowledge:-

http://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Your-Fridge-from-Ice-Build-up

http://www.ehow.com/how_4781069_prevent-frost-build-up-freezer.html

Please accept the solution if it's helpful. Do get back to us for any further query.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Hello. First thing you want to do is listen to see if you can hear the compressor running. It is the round tank in the back. this holds and pumps all the freon through your unit. If it is not humming, then it will not cool. This is probably the most expensive part. Around $250-$400

If compressor is running, then you will want to look in the evaporator tray attached to top of compressor. It should have some water in it. If not, check that the drain tube above it is not blocked. If so, unclog it.

If all this is working fine, then your problem is in the temperature control unit. Either temp control itself, or the temperature sensor which is located inside the and above freezer panel.

Last possible cause would be the control board which also runs to the compressor and can automatically shut the compressor off it it reaches a certain temperature.

The best bet is to get manual and any parts at www.repairclinic.com

unplug your freezer. Move the fridge 1 foot from the wall. Wait 15 minutes and plug again . if it works good , ok . if not you will need to call the technician who will check the starting relay and the compressor

if u have frost build up in the freezer it will affect the temperature
and it needs to defrost
problems could be
defrost timer.
thermostat.
terminator.
heater s.
unit problems (unlikely) if even frost coating.

Check for a blocked defrost drain. Take the panel off at the back of the freezer section and find the small hole at the very bottom center below the cooling coils. Use hot (but not boiling) water and a turkey baster to flush it out until water runs through it. (it will go into the defrost drain pan, where it will evaporate)

ice build-up on the bottom of the freezer usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the freezer door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost freezers are supposed to self-defrost themselves. Every 6-12 hours they turn off the compressor for a few minutes. A defrost heater then turns on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath. Unfortunately, though, when a component fails, too much frost can build up on the evaporator coils. With no air flow over the coils, cooling in the freezer compartment becomes almost non-existent.
You can manually defrost your freezer by turning it off for 24-48 hours and turn it back on to see if it begins to work properly. If your freezer now works the way it's supposed to, test the three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, or the defrost timer.
You can visually inspect some defrost heaters to see if there is a break. If it looks physically broken, then it needs to be replaced. Otherwise, check the defrost heater for continuity.
The defrost thermostat, which is just a bi-metal switch, lets current pass through at factory set temperatures. It also prevents current from passing through at the temperatures set by the factory. The set temperatures for the defrost thermostat vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
You can test the defrost timer by manually advancing to the defrost cycle. You can usually manually advance this timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise a 1/4 to 3/8's of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.
If, after testing these components, it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

You have a problem in the automatic defrost circuit. I suppose you know that !
You may have to disconnect the power from your refrigerator and use hot water in a pot or a hair drier to melt the ice away. You'll have to remove the back cover of the freezer and clear the ice from there too. You most likely have an open defrost heater and/or defrost thermostat.
If you have a tech sheet which is normally stored near the compressor section, you can trace the circuits and find your problem. If you're not comfortable with this kind of work , you'll need to call a tech to check it out for you. If you don't do something soon you'll lose all the food in both your refrigerator and freezer sections.
I hope this helps you
Stargazer