Question about GE GSL25JFR Brushed Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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My ge side by side will freeze up the coils in about seven days. service tech came out and replaced a heating coil inside of the unit and we are still expieriencing the same problem. the compressor pulls 6.5 amps when cooling so, i don't believe it is a compressor problem.

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Since the heater has been replaced, you could have a bad thermodisk, but more likely a problem with the defrost timer. The tech should have checked the heater and disk rather than replacing the heater blindly.
You probably know some of this but for me it's a copy-n-paste.
All frost-free refrigerator-freezers with exception for the ones with solid-state control have a thing in the system called a Defrost Timer. The thing is a little clock of sorts that tracks accumulated running time. Every 8 hours of run time the thing cycles through a defrost cycle. The defrost cycle is necessitated by the humidity that forms ice crystals on the freezing coils, if the frost is not eradicated it can build up to the point where no air flows over the coils to chill the inside of the box. (it may keep the freezer cold but no air goes to the fridge part. If completely solid neither cools) Most timers are located on the front of the machine, behind that removable grille under the door. Sometimes it's found in the refrigerator behind a plastic cover. The timer has a round hollow shaft through it, and can be turned with a screwdriver. If the compressor is running, give the shaft a slow twist until a click is heard. The compressor will stop. Give the fridge an hour to defrost the coils, and check it to see if it took off running. If an hour has passed and the fridge hasn't restarted, advance the timer again to start. Sometimes the nudge will make the timer run for a while. If this is the case, the unit will chill, and buy you some time to get it fixed. If the timer does not run, you can repeat the process daily until you get a replacement timer.

Hope this is helpful for you.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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Are the doors closing completely? Are the door gaskets completely sealing? Warm and humid air could be sucked inside. That air will collect on the evaporator and freeze. Over time, the freeze will increase.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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1 Answer

Model GSS25SGMCBS coil freezes.heater checkedout ok service man changed the circuit board for $312.After 3 days, same problem again. Freeze temp ok but refrigirator sectio quit working after coil freezes....


Hello,
Control board is new, heaters ok, Check defrost thermostat and thermisters located on evaporator.
PC board not getting information to defrost properly.See site below

Also check the fill tube at ice maker . Iv'e seen these get loose and fill evaporator with water causing ice block

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Coils freezing due to dust blocked coils and or air filter or short of gas. Service your unit completely.Please do not change any spare/s without knowing exact problem. Please follow the steps given below.

Toget proper heat, keep your temp setting at 30+ degree and also mode in "heat"position. If still no heat, check your heating sensor for closed circuit by anOHMs metre.It it's with RV, check power to RV.If it's with heatingelement check power to element. If power is there but still no heat meanselement defective. Replace new heating element. Thanks. To get proper cool, keep the tips as follows:
1. Check air filter is cleaned. 2. Check indoor coil is cleaned. 3. Checkindoor blower motor is working. 4. Keep in cool mode. 5. Set temp minimum 3degrees less than room temp.6.Check compressor is working with correctpressure.
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GE SIDE BY SIDE MODEL #GSH22JFRE CC FREEZER COIL FREEZING AND REFRIG NOT COOLING. DEFROST MANUALLY AND REFRIG COOLS FOR A COUPLE DAYS, THEN FREEZER COILS FREEZE AGAIN


We have a GE side by side that was only 4 years old before it starting giving us problems-coiling freezing over. The warranty period was only one year on all parts, including the compressor. Through our research we learned that profile appliances have or did have a better warranty. I believe it is 5 years on all or certain components. Either way it may be worth contacting GE customer service to help you with the issue and determine if repairs and parts for your appliance are still covered under warranty. They were very helpful in our case and ultimately discounted the parts I ordered and replaced myself. Replaced the the temperature sensors on the freezer side, the defroster thermostat and defroster heater before finally breaking down and replacing the control board. The control board was the problem. It was very easy to replace. While working through the issue, we would defrost the coils located on the inside of the freezer side with a hair dryer. It would get us by until the parts came in or they frosted over again and prevented air from circulating over them, thus causing the freezer not to cool. Good luck. Hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

Coils freeze up, replaced thermostat, defrost unit, mother board, only marginally works when set on 2-3


It is normal for the coils to frost evenly all over but if it's not defrosted it will build up preventing proper cooling. After replacing your defrost components make sure the frost is being melted. The motherboard determines when to defrost based you your use of the freezer/fridge. It should defrost from once a day to once every two or three days.
Is the fan in the freezer running? It won't cool right without it. It should run when the compressor runs.
Are the coils frosting evenly? Uneven frost means it is low on freon and requires a tech to repair.
Is the fan underneath the fridge near the compressor running when the compressor runs. If not It won't cool properly.
Does the compressor ever cut off as it should when it reaches the selected temp.

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2 Answers

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Clean the outside and inside coils and filter. This could be an air flow problem

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1 Answer

Coils freezing


Hi,

coil freezing is a sign of under charged system. Contact aized service center for recharging of refrigerant.

I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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There are three temp sensors in my GE side-by-side model GSS20IEMDWW (two in the freezer and one in the fresh food side). Replacing the temp sensor in the fresh food side was enough to allow the compressor to finally turn off.

For me, the problem manifested with an iced-over evaporator coil inside the freezer compartment. Since the compressor never cycled off (presumably because the temp sensor was providing faulty data about the temp inside the fresh food side, thus causing it to continually attempt to cool), the coils were constantly chilled. Eventually the ice on the coils would block the air flow and the freezer side could no longer freeze

I purchased a pair of inexpensive thermometers from a kitchen store and put one in the freeze and one in the fresh food side so I could occasionally look at the temps to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running - ie, was it really a warm-enough temp for cooling to be required, or was the computer reading faulty sensor data.

Six months later I also needed to replace both temp sensors in the freezer compartment. My refrigerator is about seven years old. I would recommend replacing all of the temp sensors just to rule that out.

http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS20IEMDWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model may be different, but this will give you an idea of part numbers and relative locations of the parts.


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1 Answer

I have a GE refrigerator, Model GSH25KGMC The coils in the freezer side are freezing up and the refrigerator side is getting warm. I have replaced the defrost unit on the freezer (glass tube unit at the...


There are three parts to the defrost system You've taken care of the heater do now check defrost thermostat>http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the Motherboard.



Your motherboard is part 801 on diagram 10>http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=210244

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1 Answer

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Most motors have a thermal cut out that is internal. If the motor overheats, it will shut down. If the unit is freezing up, that would indicate that there isn't enough airflow over the coils or the unit is low on refrigerant. I had a unit that did this same exact thing and after replacing the blower motor and a sequencer, in the end it was the t-stat. You are describing the same exact symptoms and every time I would go out, the unit would work fine. I would suggest replacing the t-stat and then watch the unit. But make sure that the coils are clean and you are not restricting airflow over the coils. Hopefully one of the techs actually looked at the coils to determine if they needed to be pulled and cleaned. Hopefully this answers your question.

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