Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Wiring I just got a Kenmore electric dryer without a thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, thermal cutout, high limit thermostat,and a heating element terminals. Can anyone help me to connect all of them correctly ?

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You are missing over $150 in parts. You can buy a working unit out of the newspaper for that or less.
All of the wires on those models have letters and numbers on them near the connectors at each end.

Go to the Sears Parts Direct website with your Model Number and you may be able to print out a wiring diagram, because that is what you will need.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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I have a Whirlpool electric dryer M/ WEP5300o that will not heat. I have replaced the Cycling Thermostat, High limit thermostat, Thermal fuse and heating element. It still doesn't heat. There are


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Does the Kenmore Series 700 dryer use circuit breakers or a thermal fuse to shutoff the heating element?


All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.

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The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

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1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Series 70 Dryer and I changed the thermal fuse got hot for a few minutes the model #110.74722400


The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.

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Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

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Kenmore dryer blows cold air. I replaced heat element still no luck? model 96263800


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

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The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

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The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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Dryers with lint filter on the front.

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Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


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1 Answer

No heat


The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing while the thermal cut-off is located on the heater housing. If the dryer is electric, runs but doesn't heat, the thermal fuse is not the problem; otherwise the dryer will not run because the thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and cuts power to the motor when it fails. The problem could the heating element, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, or cycling thermostat. These components can be found in the blower housing and the heater housing depending on the model of the dryer. Specify the model number of the dryer for a more specific advice.

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1 Answer

There is only cold air in my kenmore elect dryer


The motor runs on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC. Cycle the dryer circuit breaker. Other than a simple issue like that, the problem could be a bad heating element, thermostat, high limit control, thermal fuse, motor centrifugal switch, timer or electronic control. It can also be a wiring issue.

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check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.

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1 Answer

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Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal

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