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Kenmore HE4 dryer kick plate won't come off

Our dryer stopped heating and we want to check the fuses. How do we remove the kick plate from the Kenmore HE4 dryer. We took out the bottom 2 screws, but it sticks at the top. We don't want to force it off and break there a trick?

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With the screws removed, tap each side of the panel and it should drop down. Sometimes the panel can stick (epecially if dryer softener sheets are used).

The Thermal Fuse is located on the blower fan housing. It is a white (or gray) colored plastic component with two wires. If it is blown the dryer will not run at all. If the dryer IS running, however, but not heating, the following link will give you the steps necessary to troubleshoot:

Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked or clogged exhaust ventilation. If this is your problem, please refer to the section that discusses the ventilation. Replacing any failed components with a dryer left in a clogged condition, will result in repeated failures of any components you do replace.

The heating element on your dryer is located on the lower right hand side under the drum. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and Hi-Limit Thermostat are mounted on the outside of the heater box to the left of the heating element. The component that commonly blows in an overheated condition is the TCO. It is located at the end opposite the heating element terminals. If the TCO is bad, replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. These two components are often sold as set.

If you have any questions, or require addtional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009


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Kenmore elite he4 moder 110 won't heat

In terms of likelihood, here is what's wrong:
1) The heating element has failed.
2) One of the several "overheat thermostats" has overheated and failed.
These are found in the back or the bottom of the dryer in the rear.
3) One of the wires to something, like the heating element, has burned in two.
4) The panel where the electric cord attached to the back of the dryer has failed. This will be inside the back of the dryer, usually behind a small plate.
5) The circuit breaker for the "heating" circuit wire of your dryer is popped and needs to be reset. (That is the circuit breaker found in your hall, or basement, or garage, or wherever.)
If you decide to fix it yourself, a question to "fixya" might get you step-by-step instructions.
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A break in the the element should not have passed a continuity check but there are rare cases. For example, I went to a call in my beginngin years for a dryer that was taking too long to dry. This is the usual complaint when the vent is clogged or the liine is restricted cause poor air flow. There was a kink in the vent so I fixed the vent and off I went. A week later the customer called back with the same complaint. At this point I did what you did and had the same results. After multiple call backs I decided to remove the parts becuase I was looking for a shorted wire. As I removed the element I by chance looked down into the canister and low and behold the element was burnt in two but a place where the element wire was touching the canister and giving a false reading. I guess what I'm trying to say is take the element out and look at it. Also when checking the fuses atleast disconnect one wire because if both are on you can get feedback through other roiutes and give you a false reading .

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Check the following to address this issue.

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

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