GE WPRB8050D Top Load Washer Logo
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
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My washer has had streaks of grease coming from under the agitator. It is getting on my clothes and I cannot remove it. I took the agitator off and the inside of it is coated with this grease (black, thick, smelly). My washer is about 6 years old. Thank you.

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  • Posted on Jul 13, 2009
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GE style washer Common problems: - greeseOil on the clothes or floor. In most cases a new transmission will be required. You can rebuild the Trans for oil on the floor, but I find it best just to replace the transmission with a rebuilt one = less problems and faster repair. I have a parts breakdown of the old style transmission here. How to access the washer information.
Change transmission in GE washer-Take transmission out for repairs. - Unplug washer. Remove agitator from washer by pulling straight up on it, some agitators have a bolt under the cap, remove cap and look for a bolt first. Remove the agitator bearing from transmission hub. Get top up by pressing on 2 clips located about 6 in in from side between top and cabinet. Putty knife or flat blade screwdriver works well here. Take the filter flow tube off. Lift top. Remove three bolts holding basket to hub, and use a 12 POINT 1/2" socket to remove the bolts. Lift basket out of washer. Remove the two clamps holding the black boot to the tub and to the transmission. There are six bolts holding the transmission in the washer. Remove the bolts and lift transmission out of the machine.
To replace bottom seal - Turn trans. upside down in a bucket, put in vice, etc. Remove the nut holding the drive pulley on. Take drive pulley off. You can now pry the oil seal out of the trans. bottom and replace. If you wish to put the proper amount of oil in the trans. you will need to remove the bottom cover. Unless you have lost a great deal of oil, I would bypass this. I would estimate the oil loss and put in a lesser amount through the opening where you will be putting the new seal. When replacing the pulley, do not turn the nut holding pulley on. Hold nut stationary and turn pulley in the direction that nut will tighten. This will keep you from separating the hub, torque spring, and drive collar in the transmission. If you see evidence of water in the transmission, my recommendation would be to purchase a rebuilt transmission and repair in that manner. You may wish to do this regardless of the condition of the trans. You will receive a one year warranty with the rebuilt trans. I have a parts breakdown here for the transmission if you need it.
Usually you have to only add a little oil to replace what was lost...not much...really!!
The oil used is a Non-detergent, Gear oil approximately 90 weight. The main pulley seal is WH8X281 and foam nut seal is part # WH2X671.

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  • Posted on Jul 28, 2010
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How do you replace o ring under agitator to stop grease from getting on cloths bottom of agitator full of oil this is a GE top load

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Usually problems like this, you just have to take it apart and see. I can tell you a few things that will help though. It's not a deteriorating belt. In fact this machine doesn't have a belt at all, it's what is called "direct drive". The closest thing it has to a belt is a round piece of rubber in between a gear but that's near the motor and it's not possible for it to get inside the tub. In fact, it's hard for anything to get in there to stain clothes. Usually what causes this, is a build up of dirt, soap, mud, mold, etc that collects under the agitator and finally just gets enough to start releasing into the tub. It's pretty easy to take out the agitator and check under there, here's how.

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First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following for how to access the console, pull the cabinet, agitator(s) and tub if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=ef7d852e2285d2944a8b015a847b15db

You don't have to pull the pump, motor, transmission and drive tube to pull the agitator and tub.

HOWEVER:

A number of the diagnostics and repair procedures for these washers require you to remove the agitator(s).

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

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I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner

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Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

With the agitators and tub out, it's relatively easy to clean out the gunk that builds up over time.



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