- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1) ETHER THE INTAKE VALVE OR EXHAUST VALVE IS STUCK. CHECK FOR FREE PLAY....
2) CHECK FOR VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING..
3) CHECK FOR CRACKED ON ORROFACE OF INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVE....
4) CHECK FOR A FORIEGN MATERIALS OR CARBON DEPOSIT ON THE IN AND EX VALVE ORROFACE....
Remove the four front skid-plate bolts holding the front skid plate, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the skid plate.
Pull the plastic splash shield away from the vehicle, loosening the retaining clips. Remove the splash shield.
Place an oil drain container under the oil pan. Loosen the drain fitting with a wrench until oil drains from the pan. When oil is done draining, tighten the drain fitting.
Disconnect the electrical connections running to the starter motor. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the starter motor.
Remove the oxygen sensor socket from the exhaust pipe, using a wrench.
Remove the exhaust manifold bolts where the exhaust meets the manifold on both sides, using a ratchet and socket
Place an jack under the transmission to support it. Remove the pressure on the transmission crossmember.
Remove the bolts that hold the transmission crossmember in place, using a ratchet and socket. Then remove the crossmember. Place a jack stand under the transmission to keep the transmission from falling off the jack if hit. Once removed, the exhaust will hang down, allowing enough room to remove the oil pan.
Disconnect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
Remove the oil pan bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the oil pan and gasket.
Clean the mounting surfaces of the new oil pan and engine block. Make sure what ever you use to clean the surfaces dosn't gouge the metal.
Place a coat of RTV (gasket) sealer on the engine block where the pan will meet the rear main cap.
Place the new gasket on the pan and push the new oil pan into place. Finger tighten the oil pan mounting bolts to hold it in place. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to 18 ft-lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS! Doing so will cause the gasket to deform and create leaks!
Connect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.
Place the exhaust back into position and replace the transmission crossmember bolts and crossmember with a ratchet and socket.
Remove the jack supporting the transmission.
Connect the exhaust back to both sides of the manifold, tightening the bolts with a torque wrench to 20 ft-lbs.
Attach the oxygen sensor socket to the exhaust pipe with a wrench.
Replace the starter motor by installing the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket. Connect the electrical connections to the starter motor that were disconnected during removal.
Push the retaining clips on the plastic splash shield into the appropriate retaining clip holes.
Replace the front skid plate by replacing the four front skid plate bolts with a ratchet and socket.
Fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil. Make sure to check the level on the dipstick to find the exact level when filling.
Hi Anonymous, on old Harley Davidsons valve train tick can be caused by parts reaching thier service wear limits and based on years of experience and assuming that the tappet rollers and bearings and cam lobes are in good shape to eliminate anonnying valve tick I reccomend adjusting the pushrod when the the engine is warm to hot. When the front cylinder exhaust push rod is all the way up, adjust the rear cylinder exhaust push rod untill it spins but with noticeable drag. Then when the front cylinder intake push rod is all the way up adjust the rear cylinder intake push rod in the same manner. Apply the same procedure for adjusting front cylinder push rods. Good luck.
Sounds like a combination of things. First, are you using high octane fuel? If not, try a couple of tank fulls of that. You mentioned "Power Knocks" when starting off from a complete stop. This is typical of detonation due to low quality fuel.
As for the backfiring and stalling. The engine should idle at about 1000 RPM or so. If it's idled lower thant this, stalling is a possiblity not to mention poor oil of the bottom end. The backfiring could be caused by an air leak into the exhaust system. The mixture in your exhaust system should be overly rich for combustion when you backing down using the engine. If the system is sucking air in at a joint sometwhere, it leans the mixture into a combustable mixture and it ignites causing the back fire. If you've removed the "anti-tamper plug" giving you access to the idle mixture screw, back it out about a half turn and see if that helps.
No major problem. The proper mix is 32 to 1 gas and oil. That equals 4 ounces of 2 stroke ENGINE oil to one gallon of gas. Do not use MOTOR oil in the gas. 10w40 motor oil is what goes in the gearbox. Tighten the exhaust flange.