Plugged in but no juice getting through. Unit appears dead.

You could have quite easily have blown something internal.

Check internal fuse

Unless the item has internal fuse, it is burned up.
Look for product manual.
Many times, there is a glass fuse rated for unit voltage.
Replace fuse.
Each fuse has specific markings.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Maybe the power failure affected the internal circuitry, perhaps burning the power supply.
Take it to a maintenance shop to get it diagnosed.

There should be an in-line fusible link on the power supply wire and it should be checked for a blown fuse. If there is no fuse protecting the head unit, it may have received a voltage spike internally and caused internal circuit damage, requiring replacement. What can be done is remove the head display unit and wire it (with a fuse link) to battery posts and see if it powers up. If the unit does not come on, then the head unit will need to be replaced.

If the unit is over about a year old or has lived off of the charger most of the time (never using the battery) then your problem is pretty much going to be a dead battery. A replacment battery (3rd party) is $15-$25 and is fairly simple to replace. Most GPS's don't run when the battery dies and you have what appears to be a dead gps.

You can also have a internal hardware issue with the board or charge circuit or a fuse. None of that is something you can typically fix at home. You should check with Garmin to see if you have any warrenty (think is only 1 year on this one) to get it fixed. If not they have a exchange refurbish fee that you send it in no matter how bad it has been mutilated, pay a fee and they send you back a new or refurbished unit. Keep in mind what a new unit is worth when looking at repairs etc as it can get close to what you will pay for a new one.

My bet it still it being just a dead battery.

The old battery must have shorted out internally. That is why it went dead out of the blue.
Here are my thoughts, in random order, on other possibilities >

• Get a 2amp trickle charger and charge the battery for 6 hours. The starter could be robbing most the juice leaving too little for a good spark. pull the spark plugs and replace with a set of stock plugs. Check for spark.
• A kill switch is on.
• Check the fuses
• Petcock fuel pickup screens are plugged up.
• Water in the fuel
• Fuel pump (if it has one) may have lost it's prime, become plugged up, or quit working.
• The engine may just be flooded.
• the CDI / computer may have reacted to the battery short and gotten fried.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

Hi

The chances are that you bridged the printed track with a splash of solder when you replaced the regulator. A short circuit like this will cause the fuse to blow. You can get replacement 20mm slow blow 2amp fuses quite easily. But before you fit a new one, pull the board out again and have a very careful look under a magnifying glass at your solder joints. Get a small stiff bristle brush and carefully brush across the joints in case there is a tiny ball of solder across two points. When you reassemble the unit, ensure that the ribbon connectors are central and fully pushed into the sockets. I'm sure you can recover your DMR E55 reasonably easily. Best wishes

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you suspect the fuse at all, it's best to replace it.

With the microwave unplugged, if you can easily turn the fuse with your thumb & forefinger while it's in the holder, it has overheated and fatigued and the holder should be replaced.

Simply squeezing the holder's terminals together with pliers is not really a good solution.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

An intermittent door switch will not make the unit intermittently dead, it will only make it not heat, and depending on the model, it will also likely make the turntable and inside light not come on. But again it depends on the model.

You may need to clean and/or realign the door mechanism or door switch mounts.

This is especially true in case a user opens the door while it's cooking without hitting Stop first or slams the door. Both are big no-nos for a microwave.

The main parts that will kill the power are the fuse, fuse holder, or thermostat or thermal cutout, which are usually located on or above the magnetron and on the top of the cooking cavity.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

If the AC power source (outlet) is ok and the line cord and fuse are ok but the unit is completely dead, you may have a problem with the internal switching power supply.

Locate the switching power supply and see if there is a fuse on its circuit board.

Completely dead units are typically caused by a failure in the power supply section.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.

Good luck!

- Jim