Question about Maytag Freezers
The refrigerator goes warm. Defrosted it manually twice, and it runs fine for a while. A repair man on a recall suggested it was the adaptive defrost control board, but would not diagnose or repair without additional service fee, even though he was already here. I am game to replace the part, but don't know how to get to it. Any help or illustrations would be appreciated.
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by
manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.
A helpful schematic of the wiring can be found at the following website link http://www.applianceaid.com/images/mayadaptive-defrost.JPG
The control board will look something like this picture =>
This is all happening in the fresh food compartment, up top which is where you will find it. It is very failure-prone, so you are definitely not the first, the relay in it is usually the failure. Be sure to unplug the fridge before disassembling or you could get a nasty shock. Been there, done that.
If you don't defrost the fridge manually, then you should let it defrost on its own by turning it off and leaving the freezer door open. Usually, I take apart the freezer and defrost the evaporator. But, if you can get by without it for a few days, just let the fridge defrost on its own.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
If the problem is that when you program the refrigerator to defrost , it does not do defrost, then it is the defrost control board.
If instead you have ice buildup at the back of the appliance, and the defrost system is not working, then you need to test the defrost heating coil, defrost timer, and the fan system. If all this is ok, gns.o for the defrost control.
All parts are located behind the freezer firewall.
The defrost element (coil) and defrost thermostat are tested using a multimeter on Ohms to read impedance. The fan motor is tested reading voltages and checking if it run.
The test must be done by a repairman.
Entering model number here you can get parts and diagrams for your appliance.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
May 08, 2011 | Maytag Freezers
Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Jan 13, 2011 | Maytag 15 cu. ft. / 425 liter Upright...
Frigidaire has also jumped into
the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch
and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push
the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans
should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push
the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator
from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
This product comes equipped with an
Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the
Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature
DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A "d" in the freezer temperature
window and "F" in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the
heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer
temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN
(COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. "d" and "F" will be displayed until the
defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
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