Question about Maytag Freezers

2 Answers

Maytag refrigerator not defrosting.

The refrigerator goes warm. Defrosted it manually twice, and it runs fine for a while. A repair man on a recall suggested it was the adaptive defrost control board, but would not diagnose or repair without additional service fee, even though he was already here. I am game to replace the part, but don't know how to get to it. Any help or illustrations would be appreciated.

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  • soxguy52 Jul 13, 2009

    The freezer did have frost buildup inside and on the lower portion of the back wall. The repairman from the recall moved the control for the freezer on and off a few times, and based on what he heard, said it was the adaptive defrost control board. This, he said, was behind the control panel in the refrigerator, not the freezer. I am very unclear now, as to what is where.

  • soxguy52 Jul 13, 2009

    It is a Maytag side-by-side refrigerator/freezer; Model # MZD2766GEW; I thought you had this information, based on the info I already put into the FixYa sight. Not trying to give you a bad review, but I had two techs putting the part in two different places. If I am shown how to get at this part, I'm sure I can replace it myself; the other technician took 5 minutes to replace the recalled part.

    Thanks

  • soxguy52 Jul 13, 2009

    What and where is the bimetal, and how do I determine if it is closed?

  • soxguy52 Jul 13, 2009

    I have tried your 2nd test method. Unplugged fridge; turned control to off; waited 4-5 minutes; plugged back in; lights went on, but nothing else started or clicked; moved control to on, and sounds like compressor started. Hopefully, this suggests the ADC board is bad. Still dont know how to get at it. I removed the top panel in food compartment, and that exposed the lights, and square area covered by another plastic panel which doesn't simply drop down. Is this evidence to replace the ADC board, and are there illustrations on how to get at it?

    Thanks

  • soxguy52 Jul 16, 2009

    Received new ADC board, and did manage to innstall it. Did not know there was a mounting piece that might not fit the new board; filed it down, and made it fit.



    While it was unplugged, I kept hearing ice falling in the freezer, so I opened up the back wall. The coils are now exposed, and I see that the freezer wall is cracked and melted adjacent to the bottom of the coil. Looks like there is a heater coil also there. Do I need to be concerned with this?



    Thanks.

  • soxguy52 Jul 16, 2009

    The part is in, and I will put back together. I am crossing my fingers we get some more use out of the refrigerator; don't think this was one of Maytags better efforts. Thank you FixYa.Com.

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 3,037 Answers

The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) Test Mode.

First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.

In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.


Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.

If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

A helpful schematic of the wiring can be found at the following website link http://www.applianceaid.com/images/mayadaptive-defrost.JPG

The control board will look something like this picture =>
http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/MaytagAdaptive.jpg

This is all happening in the fresh food compartment, up top which is where you will find it. It is very failure-prone, so you are definitely not the first, the relay in it is usually the failure. Be sure to unplug the fridge before disassembling or you could get a nasty shock. Been there, done that.

If you don't defrost the fridge manually, then you should let it defrost on its own by turning it off and leaving the freezer door open. Usually, I take apart the freezer and defrost the evaporator. But, if you can get by without it for a few days, just let the fridge defrost on its own.



Benjamin

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 13, 2009

    thanks, did not have that info on the model number before.

    Its located inside the top console inside your refrigerator section
    that mounts to the inside refrigerator ceiling, that console will drop
    down, then you can change it.




  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 13, 2009

    It is a little lever looking piece of metal that has two types of metal on it making it bend and come into contact with another piece of metal depending on the temperature because of the thermal properties of the two different metals that make up the bimetal. It should be clearly visible and acts as a lever like I stated before. It is directly on the adaptive defrost control board

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 13, 2009

    The bimetal is closed if the free end is in contact with another metal contact

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 13, 2009

    Yes, this should be enough evidence to replace the ADC. That last panel should pop down, might need to pry it out with a flat-headed screwdriver or butter knife or similar object.



  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Jul 16, 2009

    If the crack goes all of the way through, then you definitely have a problem, I would try sealing it up as best as you can. As long as the heater coil isn't damaged, you are fine there too. As long as you can keep water from going into the insulation by sealing up the crack, this fridge should last.

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  • Maytag Master
  • 19,396 Answers

If the problem is that when you program the refrigerator to defrost , it does not do defrost, then it is the defrost control board.

If instead you have ice buildup at the back of the appliance, and the defrost system is not working, then you need to test the defrost heating coil, defrost timer, and the fan system. If all this is ok, gns.o for the defrost control.

All parts are located behind the freezer firewall.

The defrost element (coil) and defrost thermostat are tested using a multimeter on Ohms to read impedance. The fan motor is tested reading voltages and checking if it run.
The test must be done by a repairman.

Entering model number here you can get parts and diagrams for your appliance.


Regards.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jul 13, 2009

    If the tech moved the control for the freezer on and off manually a few times, then it is the control board.

    As I said, If the problem is that when you program the refrigerator to defrost ,
    it does not do defrost, then it is the defrost control board.

    That is what the technician did.

    To get part diagrams and location you need to give me the model number as printed on the service tag.

    Sorry that you gave me a bad feedback.

    Regards.


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