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copper levels have to be lowered by delution (adding more water)
your daughters hair rinse with lrmon juice the reason this probably happened your PH and alkalinity are both probably low PH should be between 7.2 and 7.6 alkalinity shouls be between 80 and 120 if un aware of pool chemistry take water to a professional
My goodness! I normally don't need to feel that a correction needs to be aimed at a solution provided, but I would not follow the instructions above to correct your foaming issue by dropping the pH to a level of 7.0 That is WAY TO ACIDIC!!!
Try to Never allow your spa water to fall below 7.2 as that is the absolute lowest allowable level for your pH. Keep it balanced and stabilized at a parameter of between 7.4 - 7.6 , higher than that then you are to Alkaline! High pH may cause foaming as will Low pH. but the most common reason for foaming is too much solids in the water or contaminants. Be diligent with your water testing to ensure your Total Alkalinity is balanced at 120ppm but a range of 100-150 is acceptable, if this is out of balance your pH will not Stabilize! Repeat... if Total Alkalinity is out of this acceptable range, you will always have a problem with stabilizing your pH to keep in in range that is needed no lower than 7.4 and no higher than 7.6
Shock on a regular routine basis to "Oxidize" contaminants that have "latched' onto your sanitizing molecule and has rendered it useless. This will cause noxious fumes, that will make you choke & cough and will create foam. Shocking, takes care of this problem. Keep your water balanced and the water free from built up "Solids" and your foaming problem will be a thing of the past, until you get in with bathing attire that has been washed with laundry detergent and not rinsed well. That is why it is recommended to not put your bathing attire into the laundry with soap - just water is all that is needed.
Oh, by the way, don't know if I mentioned it, but the way to keep the Solids in check is to empty your spa 3 to 4 times a year. That is the only way to rid your spa of Solids or TDS - Total Dissolved Solids. There is no chemical to lower this Solids problem. The only way to get solids out of your spa water is to Physically get it out of your spa.
Blue water stains are not caused by hard or soft water. Blue water or bluish green water is caused by the PH of the water. Low PH can corrosion of plumbing (copper lines) causing bluish green water or water high in alkalinity/PH can cause the same issue. Therefore there is no adjustment on the softener to correct this. I suggest a PH test to see what it is. If the PH is 6.5 or lower a calcite filter is recommended to raise the PH. RJH2O
Once you get the "Green" stuff on the walls, you must brush it off.. and one boost cycle will not do.... Make sure you have the correct salt level!!! Keep in mind..big pools can take up to 350 lbs of salt... Now...set you pump at 12 hrs and you chlorinator at 10 hrs between those 12 hrs.. Run this cycle and you should see results within 2 to 3 days... Clean you filter and rinse your electrolytic cell after 3 days because you will have dead algae. After the water turns clear, you can then lower your cycle to 10 pump and 8 chlorinate.. Good luck! hope this helps!
You don't mention the size of the pool. If this is a above ground small pool ... dump the water, clean the liner and refill it. Remove the metal with a sequestering agent. Get the alkalinity correct. Get the pH correct then add the salt to 3200 ppm.
Chlorine kills algae. Are you sure it is algae and not metal in the water?
pH should be 7.2 to 7.6. Alkalinity should be 100. If a gunnite pool, the calcium should be 300. Salt should be 3200. Cyanuratic acid should be 50+ if this pool is outside (not indoors).
What to do. If this is a big pool, and you are sure this is not metal in the water, I would super chlorinate the pool - take it to 20 or so ppm. Run the filter for at least 24 hours. Watch the pressure ... you will be filtering out a lot of stuff.
I assume you have a heater...the green is from the high copper content in your water reacting with the chlorine. Get your pH up as soon as possible and get a copper reading on the water. Assuming it is high you will need a metal-out product from a local pool store. We prefer the Natural Chemistry line of products in our service company.
although you may or may not have enough chlorine in your pool you must also realize that a pool need turned over at least 3 times a day.
an example is if you have 7000gl of water and a 2000gph pump you need to filter at least 10 hours or so.
More important than chlorine is the actual circulation of the water you can have all the chlorine in the world but if you do not have the circulation the water will become cloudy or green this also happens when you have no swimmers for days at a time
the filtration time is over and above the chlorine generating time your 4 hours a night for generating chlorine sound like you are guessing sometimes it may be 4 and sometimes 2 or 6
it depends on # of swimmers a day sun and what was in the pool to start
It is important to have a test kit for ph and chlorine and keep chlorine at 1.0to 1.5 now set your ph
ph will rise and fall with your chlorine level one you have them set good at the first time then ph should stay safe enough and re level as chlorine is kept right
also remeber that the wrong ph causes more problems than wrong chlorine levels
Also make sure your salt is no more than 3000ppm and no higher like some people recommend and no lower than 2500 test kits are available for 10 dollars
all of this can be found on intex.com either in a video or pdf files for water capacity and approximate time for generating chlorine.
high chlorine can cause problems too it will give false readings for your ph and alkalinity.
The most important thing to remeber is that there is a sequence to follow.
First buy a test kit for salt about 11 bucks for 10 tests. you need to have the ppm's at 3000
if it is to high drain 20% water re-fill and filter/curculate for 6 hours then test again. once at 3000 then go for your chlorine it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 with a test kit now with those 2 in line go for ph adjustment ph should be as close 2 7.6 as possible. Ph will cause more problems like cloudy water or algea more than anything else.
another thing you need to realize is that the intex salt system sucks. Once you set it for the # of hours to chlorinate you are basically guessing as to what is needed. Yes there is a guidence chart as to hours to run but it is over kill and lets too much chlorine be generated start with 3-4 hours of generating but remember also that at 4 hours generating that is nowhere near enough filtering
you will need to shut power off get it out of sleep mode and continue to filter
on avberage a pool should be turned over 3 times a day my pool 7000gl and the 2000gph all in one intex salt pump needs run at least 10 hours a day alone without the chlorinator
my pool only 18' so with your total gallons it will be longer
one last thing to consider is that when in chlorine generating mode the filter slows down because of all the electronics. You can not hear it happen but if you put your hand in front of the discharge you can tell
Chlorine generators raise your pH over time. You will always have to monitor and, on occassion, adjust your pH down using acid. Your water being out of balance likely lead to the green water condition.
Check your alkalinity first and adjust it if needed. Once it is stable, adjust pH using acid, then get your pool shocked to kill off the algae. You made need an algacide too but save that for last and only if required.