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Whirlpool LE4440XWW0 really wants to overheat

Good morning. I'm new to this, and so am fumbling my way through it by reading manuals and learning to use a multimeter. Now I have a lot of facts, but am not sure what they all mean. I'd really appreciate your assistance.

About 10 days ago our dryer wouldn't turn on. I went at it with a voltmeter, and seemed to have conductivity on all the Thermostat Heaters but not the thermal fuse. I swapped the fuse, and all seemed good. But, the next day the fuse blew again.

I checked the air flow at the end of the venting, and it seemed to have decent airflow. Then, I removed the vent tube altogether and held a thermometer in the exhaust immediately as it leaves the dryer. Within 5 - 10 minutes, it rose above 200' (seemed to settle around 210'). Obviously, that's much too hot, and it explains why the fuse (which, according to the writing on the side, trips at 196') blew.

I removed the chute, and cleaned out a bunch of lint. Put everything back together and retested the air temp, but it still rose above 200'.

I tested the heater coil, and saw that it was shorted against metal can in which it is housed. I removed the coil, made sure it looked undamaged, and reseated it so it wasn't touching anything it shouldn't be touching. I reinserted it, verified that it was no longer shorted, and retested the air temperature. No change - it still rose above 200'.

Now I suspected the "Thermostat Heater" (part #61894) or the "adjustable dryer cycling Thermostat Heater" (I think that's what it is called, part #660039). They are #19 and #24 on the last diagram in the parts manual:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%203390403.pdf


If I understand their jobs, they are supposed to tell the coil when to turn on and off to regulate the heat. I tested their resistance (Rx1k) both with the dryer off and then running hot. Here's what I found:

The dryer has three heat settings: "High", "Low" and "Air". The resistance between the posts of the Thermostat Heater read as follows:

On the "High" setting:

4 ohms when off (e.g. conductive, if I understand things correctly)
4 ohms when on

On the "Low" setting:

4 ohms when off
Max resistance (e.g. 1000) when powered on

On the "Air" setting:

4 ohms when off
4 ohms when on


Then, I tested the posts of the "adjustable dryer cycling Thermostat Heater". Here's what I found:

On the "High" setting:

2.5 ohms when the power is off
Max (e.g. 1000) when the power is turned on; if you turn the power off, it sort of drops a little but does not return to 2.5. If you wiggle the clips a little bit or remove the wires from them, then it drops back to 0 - 2.5.

On the "Low" setting:

2.5 ohms on when the power is off
About 1/2 way to max when the power is turned on; if you turn the power off, it sort of drops a little but does not return to 2.5. If you wiggle the clips a little bit or remove the wires from them, then it drops back to 0 - 2.5.


I confess, I don't know if all of this is, or whether it is indicative of some problem. I tested the cutoffs on the can around the heater coil with the power off, and they were both conductive. I haven't tested the heat setting switch yet, mostly because I'm not sure how to do it and wonder if I need to. It need be, though, I guess I can dig in and figure that out.

I would like to avoid replacing parts that don't need replacing. Can anyone tell me whether these readings are normal, or suggest where the problem is?

Thanks,

David

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SOURCE: kenmore dryer blows thermal fuse

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i had the same problem, it was the recepticle blew one of the hots.The dryer was getting power to everything but the heater.buy a 5 dollar tester that is meant for 240 and check both legs on it

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