Have swapped the brain in the front of the draw from the upper to the lower. Checked all the lid closer, they work although two had ohms of 199 and 302 which were on the top draw. Checked the other boards can see no problems
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I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.
I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.
Hello, The most typical problem with your dishwasher is going to the lid seal motors that raise and lower the seal.thegear on it gets stripped and it slips so lid doesn't fully close on the side where motor is bad,their is 2 motors one on left and one on the right if advisable to replace both of them. By pulling the pins on drawer sides and removing front panel,then releasing the tabs on drawer slide the drawer will come out so you can also inspect the seal for rips of tears in the rubber on it but,i found 50 motors to be the problem for every seal thats bad. To replace the motors on the upper drawer the lower drawer must also be removed so the wiring to the upper drawer lid motors can be connected to the control board in the back behind the lower drawer.
probably the lid switch is faulty,remove screws behind control panel,then pull control panel toward you and lift up and lay back,now remove 2 screws in the lower front panel by the floor and remove the cover,then 2 more screws to remove upper front panel above the lower one,then 2 more screws in front hold the top on then raise top up like a car hood and the lid switch will be under the top cover
One drawer leaks can cause this problem. If you don't fix it. One day it will turn on the pumps from both units without any one touching them since the floor sensor at the bottom housing detects water and it will run for ever until you unplug the power cord.
This dishwasher is a state of art in design and replacing parts is very simple once a person has enough understanding of its mechanism. If the tech fail to find the problem then he is not qualified to touch this dishwasher.
When there is a leak, it is a problem with the lid seal from the top not closing down tightly so during the wash cycle, water shoot up and leaks through the top opening then collecting on the bottom housing of each unit. Let say the top draw is leak, so the bottom housing of top draw if full of water then it overflows to the bottom drawer unit then the floor.
Here is the idea of how it happens.
The top lid is pulled down by 2 actuators from both sides at first start. That is why you can hear the motor noise turning on at the beginning of the wash cycle. That is the noise from the actuators. If the actuators are bad. only one side works then the lid can not be sealed properly there is a leak. If bothe of actuators are week the gear worn out so they can not hold the lid down during the wash cycle then it can cause a leak.
You can pull each tube out and access from the left side at the bottom to touch the bottom housing to fell the wetness. Put in tower to dry them out. If there is a weteness from the bottom housing upper tube it doesn't mean the bottom drawers is leaking. It is wet just because the top is leaking. However you have to dry the bottom in order to continue use the bottom dryer. If you ignore my advice then your circuit board at the bottom housing of lower drawer will be damaged and it is not cheap.
With the information that I provided you can interview a tech claiming know about the this type of dishwasher before letting him coming into your house. Good luck.
When F1 is showing up then there is a leak. The leak is causing by the top lid seal not close down tightly to the opening tube surface groove. Pull out the tube, put in tower in the bottom housing accessing from the left side. Only this side you can have room to put your hand in drying out the bottom. Do the same thing with the bottom drawer since the floor sensor is at the bottom and when it detects water then there is some water at the bottom housing of lower tube also. After Drying it out you can use You can use the lower tube wile ordering parts for the upper tube. Need to order 2 upper actuators and a lid seal with YOKE, if you want to do it yourself. Otherwise, have a F&P serviceman come in and diagnose the problem, not any handyman since the F&P dishwasher is not like others.
I had the same problem. It would pull backwards but not go forward. A closer examination revealed the clear plastic part on the bottom in the very front of the machine had popped loose on one side. If you look at the front of the machine, there is the clear plastic part on top where you see the dirty water being sucked up. The bottom half that creates the channel for the vacuum is where it came loose. It wouldn't create enough suction to draw the water up either. By taking out the two screws that hold the top part in place and removing it, I was able to snap the bottom back in. Works fine now. Hope this helps.
k the only thing you can do is try starting then stopping each drawer to see if the lid will go back up if not it will even be a hard one for the serviceman. you can't swap the wires like you've done it will cause large problems like a jammed lid sorry.
thats tub home sensor switch, mounts to rear right of cabinet and senses drawer closing along with little black box with red switch should also have a little metal actuator( this is what usually breaks off switch), each drawer uses their own. unistall from cabinet and theres an access panel strictly for replacing theses switches