Easy way to change door pin and roller bearing

adjust the brakes back off so that the drum can be pulled off first
next remove the grease cap, and split pin
remove the tin nut and the axle nut
pull the hub off the axle
replace the bearings after repacking the cones correctly ( grease between rollers under the cage )
reinstall making sure that the grease seal lip is facing the bearings
install the hub back on the axle and install the nut
do it up until it touches the bearing , spin the hub and do it up a bit more while turning
This ensures that all the tapered rollers are seated correctly
Now without touching any thing undo the nut then do it back up until it touches the bearing again
This is a no pre-load - no end float position that is desirable for the bearing
fit the tin nut positing it so that the split pin can go through the axle hole. If after many changes of position of the tin nut you still cannot get a section to line up with the hole , adjust the axle nut up just a bit until something lines up
any more than one castleantion hole will be too tight .
fit grease cap without filling with grease as that grease will do nothing
what you have put between the rollers under the cage will,be sufficient

Check the blower to make sure it is properly secured on the motor shaft. Also check all of the bearings: motor, tensioner pulley and drum support rollers or drum bearings. You may have to disengage the belt to check the motor and tensioner.

If you are running tapered bearings then I would say that your problem is over-tightening and will destroy bearings very quickly. Too much or not enough grease will do the same . To properly grease new bearings you have to get the grease between the rollers and under the cage (that steel bit that holds the bearings apart) To do this place a small amount of grease in the palm of your hand and use the open end of the bearing to create a scraping action through the grease . This catches the grease and pushes it between the rollers. Do this action until you see it coming out the small end of the bearing. This is all the grease you need for a properly lubricated bearing. Repeat the process for the other bearing. Reassemble and fit the washer and locknut. Tighten the nut at the same time turning the wheel. When the nut is firm against the bearing but not tight turn the wheel a few more times. Now don't touch the wheel but loosen off the nut then retighten it up until it just touches the bearing. This is a no pre-load no end float situation that is most desirable for tapered roller bearings. Fit the split pin in the hole and open up the pin to catch it in the hole. If the pin hole will not allow this to happen tighten it just enough to get the first available slot to line up to allow the pin in. If you have thrust ball bearings they same method of greasing and adjustment is applicable.

remove brush roll and clean any string, hair, or whatever from it. especially around the ends. you can also unscrew the ends and check for debris there also. when you put ends back on use a little wd40 to lube up the bearings. if that doesn't work replace brush and won't hurt to change belt

I had this issue as well and parkerguy's transfer roller cleaning suggestion solved it! One point to mention though if you have the CM1312nfi MFP is that the transfer roller is attached to a cage on the back door of the printer. To remove the transfer roller, you do NOT need to remove the cage. Simply open the back door and locate the white plastic cap attached to the end of the transfer roller. You'll need to slightly pry up the white tab that extends down from that white cap in order to turn the cap clockwise to remove it. Once you've removed the white cap, follow the same process to remove the black cap from the other end. Once you have both the white and black caps off, simply slide the transfer roller toward the black cap end, ensuring to feed the pin through the hole so the pin at the white cap end comes out. Now the transfer roller is free and in-hand, ready for cleaning. Note that the transfer roller pins are shaped/sized differently to ensure the proper end is inserted into the proper hole, so you should note which end belongs on which side. To reinstall, simply reverse the process, sliding the appropriate transfer roller pin through the hole on the black cap end, then insert the other roller pin through the hole on the white cap end and reattach the caps, ensuring the tab on the cap is reseated properly. Close the back door and you should be in business!

have to pull the diff cover,remove the small bolt that holds the pin,remove the pin . With wheels off ,push the axle in remove c-clip ,slide axle out. You will need a slide hammer to remove the bearing.(or pull both sides and drive out with a long piece of rebar from the other end)
Be sure to check the axle surface where the bearing rides,if is damaged the parts stores sell a repair bearing that makes the rollers ride in a different spot on the axle.(called "axle savers")

road wheel off, brake caliper removed from rotor disc, remove cap in middle of rotor exposing the bearing retaining nut, remove split pin that holds the nut from turning and wind off the large nut, once nut is removed you can remove the rotor and bearings, the rear roller bearing at the rear of the rotor may need to be levered off with a screwdriver, should come off easy, replace in reverse order

If its got drums its no problem, remove the wheel, take off the dust cap in the center of the drum,remove the split pin and the center nut 24mm, i think.
Take off the drum, clean out the old grease from the bearing, and take out the roller bearings, then you need to knock out the bearing races with a punch.
Use the old races to knock the new ones in, grease the new bearings and reinsert to the races, reassemble to to rear hub.
Dont overtighten the nut, nipped up a bit and backed off will do

The belt on a dryer is inside the body, usually accessed and changed as follows

most base dryers

• unplug dryer(220v is Not Fun)
• remove lint screen
• undo screws inside lint screen holder, screwing it to case lid (so lid can tilt up)
• with putty knife or other blunt blade, release spring catches under front corners of case lid
• raise case lid
• remove screws 1/3 way down front corners of body holding front panel on
• remove door switch cable from door switch
• lift door off set aside

maytag

• remove screws from bottom bend of front panel
• lift front panel off
• remove doo switch cable
• sent front panel aside

1. drum motor felts and bearings are now accessible.
2. lift drum and withdraw fully forwards
3. with drum removed check support rollers for free movement, check drum slides and/or drum felts for wear, easier to replace now, if worn, than have bearings or slides cause belt to break again.
4. loop belt loosely around drum at wear marks from prior installation
5. reinsert drum onto rollers bearings slides felts as installed.
6. loop belt around motor pulley
7. pull tensioner pulley against spring to end of its travel
8. loop belt around tensioner pulley
9. relax tensioner pulley to tighten belt
10. rotate drum by hand to ensure belt is aligned

reassemble case in reverse order.

Notes
There are not many belt, felt, support roller sizes the local parts guy will have a belt, felt, roller to fit,

Tensioner pulley may not be in place, breaking belts often pull them out of their mounts, the pulley and spring will be lying on the case floor, there is only one way they fit in to their mounts so they are easy to reinstall

tensioner sketch is approximate, pulley may be on top run pulling down, or bottom run pushing up

the repair is easy, it takes longer to type or read this than it does to repair the dryer

Belts ~$14 Support Rollers ~$14/pair, felts/slides upto ~$25
New dryer +$200 - its a good repair

The belt on a roper dryer is inside the body, accessed and changed as follows

• unplug dryer(220v is Not Fun)
• remove lint screen
• undo screws inside lint screen holder, screwing it to case lid (so lid can tilt up)
• with putty knife or other blunt blade, release spring catches under front corners of case lid
• raise case lid
• remove screws 1/3 way down front corners of body holding front panel on
• remove door switch cable from door switch
• lift door off set aside

1. drum motor felts and bearings are now accessible.
2. lift drum and withdraw fully forwards
3. with drum removed check support rollers for free movement, check drum slides and/or drum felts for wear, easier to replace now, if worn, than have bearings or slides cause belt to break again.
4. loop belt loosely around drum at wear marks from prior installation
5. reinsert drum onto rollers bearings slides felts as installed.
6. loop belt around motor pulley
7. pull tensioner pulley against spring to end of its travel
8. loop belt around tensioner pulley
9. relax tensioner pulley to tighten belt
10. rotate drum by hand to ensure belt is aligned

reassemble case in reverse order.

Notes
There are not many belt, felt, support roller sizes the local parts guy will have a belt, felt, roller to fit,

Tensioner pulley may not be in place, breaking belts often pull them out of their mounts, the pulley and spring will be lying on the case floor, there is only one way they fit in to their mounts so they are easy to reinstall

tensioner sketch is approximate, pulley may be on top run pulling down, or bottom run pushing up

the repair is easy, it takes longer to type or read this than it does to repair the dryer

Belts ~$14 Support Rollers ~$14/pair, felts/slides upto ~$25
New dryer +$200 - its a good repair