Whirlpool washing maching won't drain or spin

not sure which way to lead you so check this site out for possible causes. Seems like you have done at least one.

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Washing-Machine/47-5-634596-/new/Whirlpool-Washer-won-t-spin-or-agitate-LSR8010PQ0
Best to you.

you need a new lid switch google model number and order new one

Yes, you will need to replace the lid switch. Here is the part you need.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If your washer doesn't drain or spin, you may read and learn what parts may cause this. First, you will want to check your water pump. You need to make sure it is working. Make sure you check the belt on the pump. Make sure it is not broken or loose. Also, make sure your pulley is not stuck in place. Sometimes, they will stick or barely turn at all. If this is the case, you will need to replace it. If the pump, pulley, and belt are working, make sure your motor is working. You should be able to hear it if it is. If it isn't, check your lid switch. The lid switch can cause the motor to not work. It may need adjusted. If not, go ahead and change it. A bad lid switch may cause the washer to not work at all. Now, if your pump is pumping and the washer still won't spin, you will want to check your belt and clutch. Once again, the belt may be broke or loose. Check to make sure your clutch is not worn also. This may be a case of a bad lid switch again as well. You could have a bad drive motor. This is what controls spinning, draining, and agitation. You could have a broken motor coupler. Over time, they will go bad and need replaced. It is possible that your transmission is slipping or damaged. And lastly, you could have a bad basket drive or spin bearing. This is what allows the inner tub to move. If this is the case, you will probably hear loud sounds or loud banging.

My first thought Lid switch gone bad. This washer has a motor which reverses. The motor is a double shaft design. 1 end of that motor drives the transmission and the other end drives the pump. When moving in one direction the tranny agitates them clothes and the water cannot be repelled out of the washer. On spin cycle the motor goes opposite directione and tosses out that water while spinning the drum. Later models have a fancy spin pawl which allows them pump to empty that water and lessen the strain on the motor. If that safety lid switch don't act right then them washer will be dead in da water during dat rinsing cycle. Now here is a wondermous vido i found on dat new fangled world wide web from repair clinic the most wondermous site to buy them parts for this washer.

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In most cases all brands will fill and agitate with the lid open, but will not drain or spin with the lid up.
It sounds to me like your lid switch is either bad or misaligned.
The first thing to check is the actuator plunger on the lid. Make sure it hasn't fallen or been broken off. Look for a piece hanging down from the lid that looks like a little finger that when the lid is closed, would hit and depress the lid switch ,which is under the top of the washer.
If it looks like the actuator is good shape then the lid switch is either bad or misaligned. Take a pencil or a bic pen and depress the lid switch. Making sure your washer is plugged in and in the spin mode. If it begins to rotate to spin and drain then see if a screw has fallen out that holds it in place or became loose not letting the actuator hit it correctly.
If the switch does not seem loose and it will not start the machine when depressed with a pencil it is probably time to change it out.

This is a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.26722693

If it neither drains nor spins, the first thing to check is the Lid Switch. This prevents the machine from draining and spinning if the lid is open.

I assume that you cannot hear the motor trying to turn.

Following is a Whirlpool installation and maintenance PDF on top load, direct drive washers. It has a description of how to by-pass the switch.

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

You can also use the following illustrated guide to see how to access the console.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, remove the two plastic clips from the console, remove the two screws under the clips, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't drain or spin, the problem points to the timer.

a large load will sometimes get out of the top of the tub and cause the lid switch mounts to break and then the unit wont spin or drain. just look under the top and if you see the lid switch just hanging or not in the right place then replace the lid switch.

lid switch is bad chance are you can by pass this by removing the timer header and crossing the outer wire on the lid switch that it mounted closest to the lid not the power cord this will tell you if you need a switch