How to replace throttle cable on the handle bar end

REQUIRED TOOLS: 10mm T-handle, 8mm T-handle, Phillips-head screwdriver, contact cleaner, 4mm Allen wrench, 10mm box-end wrench, cable lubing tool, cable lube, Pro Circuit Red Lube (or equivalent)

STEP 1:
Start by removing the seat and fuel tank in order to gain the access needed to remove the throttle cables at the carburetor. Next, jump up to the handlebars, pull back the throttle dust cover, and loosen the two bolts that are holding the two halves of the throttle housing together. With the end of the throttle tube now exposed, pull the cable ends (balls) out of the throttle tube. The tube and grip are now free to slide off the end of the bar. Now that everything is apart and exposed, clean the inside of the two throttle housing pieces, the throttle tube, and the ends of the throttle cables with some contact cleaner. Also, clean the handlebar of any dirt and grime that may be present.
STEP 2:
On the right side of the carburetor you'll find a single 4mm Allen bolt that secures a plastic dust cover. Remove the bolt and pop the cover off. With the cover removed, the ends of the two cables can now be accessed. Starting with the top cable, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the lock nut, and the cable end can be pulled off of the carburetor wheel. Repeat this process for the bottom cable. Next, while paying attention to the cable routing, bend back the flexible cable guides that are located on the frame near the headset, and pull the cables up and out of the bike.
STEP 3:
It's time to lube the cables. Because of the hardened metal elbows located near where the cables go into the throttle housing, I recommend lubing the carburetor end of the cables where a cable-lubing tool can be easily fastened. Note: It's important to only use a minimal amount of cable lube. Because these are throttle cables, excess lube will eventually run its way down and into the carburetor. It won't necessarily damage anything, but it will make a mess. Be sure to lube both cables. Holding the cables together, feed them back into the bike from the same spot you pulled them out near the handlebars. Rout them back in so they are tucked up tight against the right side of the frame to keep them out of the way of the fuel tank once it's installed.
STEP 4:
Before putting the throttle assembly back together, we recommend using Pro Circuit Red Lube or an equivalent on all of the moving throttle parts (the inside of the housing pieces and their edges, the balls of the cables and their slots in the throttle tube, etc.). Also, on the inside of the throttle tube put a small amount of cable lube so that it doesn't go on dry against the bar. Because you can put the cables on backwards at the carburetor, start your reassembbly at the handlebar. With the throttle tube on the bar so that the cable ball slots are facing down, slide the cable ends back into the tube, and rout the cables back through the tube tracks. The cables can only go back onto the throttle tube one way. Once in place, line up the two halves of the throttle housings, and get the two Phillips bolts started without tightening them completely. To prevent binding and rubbing, push the tube and housing assembly together until it bottoms out against the end of the bar. Now, back the assembly off the end of the bar 1 to 2mm so that there is proper clearance to twist freely. Now tighten the housing bolts securely.
STEP 5:
Before heading back down to the carburetor, push the throttle tube all the way forward until it stops. This will not only show you which cable to install first at the carb, but will also give you the proper slack needed to do it. At the carburetor, one cable will now be sticking out of the cable housing farther than the other. The longer one (the one with the most slack) is the one you'll start with. It is the bottom or "pull cable. There is a 10mm nut that is thinner (not the locking nut), which slides into the groove on the carb. With the ball of the cable reinstalled on the throttle wheel, and the flat 10mm nut in its housing, tighten the 10mm locking nut to secure the cable. Next, turn the throttle tube back a little bit to take out the excess slack, which in turn will give you the slack needed to install the top or "push cable, and repeat the same process. I like to keep the gap between the 10mm locking nut and the longer 10mm adjusting nuts that are connected to the cable even between the two cables. Because most of the cable adjustment is done at the bar, you don't need a lot of gap (2-3mm) between the locking nut and the adjusting nut of each cable. Once adjusted evenly, reinstall the dust cover and tighten the 4mm Allen bolt.
STEP 6:
If you don't have a personal preference for the amount of throttle play (movement front to back), I recommend about 2-3mm of wiggle, at most. To adjust the play, there's a finger locking nut and an adjusting nut just behind where the cables enter the throttle housing. If you want more slack (play) in your throttle, spin the adjusting nut in toward the throttle. For less slack, back it out. Because it's a push/pull style system, you have to adjust both cables evenly until you get the feel you're looking for. After you've achieved your ideal amount of play, reinstall the fuel tank and the seat. Now that everything is back together, turn your bars from side to side to make sure that the cables aren't binding anywhere, and then recheck the throttle play and adjust again if needed.

What year model. Take tank off. Take cover off throttle on handle bars. Release tension on throttle cable by loosening cable adjusters. Release cable from carburetor. Release cable from throttle housing on handle bar. Reverse instruction to install new cables ...2 cables.

Throttle cables got crushed or kinked by tie downs or throttle grip housing crushed. If that doesnt help check the housing that the throttle cables turn in to make sure the barrels at the grip end of the cables are seated correctly. If that fails check the push pull at the throttle body to make sure the cables are in the grooves. I'll bet it was the tie downs doing some damage at the handle bar area.

To make a throttle cable or any cable you have to have both ends fixed to the same bar. IT cutter shaft mount bar mower handles etc otherwise the inner won't move as when you push the throttle the outer moves and not the inner.. By you video you need to fix this first.

First remove the switch cover
just under the handle bars there are two rubber covered adjustment screws, roll back the rubber covers.
mark where they are set, then loosen off both adjusters until you can unhook the ends of the cables in the handle
remove the old grip and install the new one being careful to have the cable hook-ups in the proper position
install the cable ends and replace the cover
tighten the adjusters to original settings, check to see if there is play in the throttle and if it is returning to the start position when released
make necessary fine tuning to adjusters then tighten lock nuts and replace the rubber covers

hope that helps

replace the throttle case by the new one

they can stick in a number of places.
You may need to dissassemble the hand throttle assembly
Make sure the plastic twist grip turns freely on the handle bar.
Check the new grip doesnt push against the throttle switch assembly.
Check the cables move freely
Check the cables dont have any frayed ends
check the cables arnt missing any of the plastic outer cover
check the cables a routed correctly and dont get jammed or pulled turning lock to lock

remove 2 screws from right handle bar switch open it up and remove the cables from the throttle sleave. to remove from housing move in a circuler motion while pulling them from housing they will pull out as long as you pull them straight. then remove air cleaner cover and backing plate you will see where the cables hook to throttle bodies unhook cables and remove from holder noteing the one with the spring. tie a string to the end of the 2 cables anf pull them through the top, then tie the string on the new cables and pull them back through and re install everything and adjust the cables to 3/8 play in the throttle and done.

start at the handlebar end. loosen the 2 screws and slide off the throttle from the handle bar, wipe down the handle bar, and put a thin film of grease on it, then slide it back on, being sure not to slide it on all the way, about 1mm back, to prevent the handlegrip rubbing on the end of the bar. Next you need to lubricate the cable, this is best done from the top handlebar end, you need to take apart the cable housing, so you can spray some thin lubricant down the cable, such as WD-40, or you can even buy special cable lube. This will fix your problem im sure.

adjust the cables to were they are as loose as possible. one cable should be for snap back and the other for the actual throttle. you will have to put the housing on the bars and the throttle sleeve on the bars, then install the cables in the throttle sleeve.