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Fridge not cooling, motor constantly running

Hello, I have a KSRS251. About 1 year ago, the starter relay went out (troubleshooting let me to this solution), and that fixed it. This unit is about 8 years old, and a friend told me I should probably change the capacitor as well. I did this a few months ago.Today, I notice the fridge not cooling properly. I noticed the fridge was running a lot, and no cooling. I think I found it shortly after the failure since everything was still relatively cold, but I have thermometers in both the freezer and the fridge, and they were both reading high.Could the relay be bad again?The replacement relay the first time was 2 pieces: a piece about 1'' x 1/2'' x 1/2'' which connected to 2 pins on the compressor. The other piece was relatively flat, and hooked to the 3rd pin. That flat piece does rattle when I shake it.

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Sounds like low on Freon find the evaporator up in freezer hiding behind back wall or under freezer floor. when removed look at the frost pattern if it is only partial covered in frost , good chance it needs a shot of gas Freon like stuff gas. not sure in your areas what requirements costly in The Great White North. But if there is only a great block of ice from four my best seen it started right where the door panel ends and freezer began 36 hours to defrost. So if ice cube is what greets you Defrost Problems check Defrost timer stuck, Defrost thermostat, Defrost Element, check all wiring in freezer were the last 2 are located.

Posted on Mar 18, 2017

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Fridge and Freezer losing cooling

we bought a f&p fridge freezer and in summer noticed it wasn't cooling and the freezer wasn't freezing, when the service guy came out he noticed our ducted air con was blowing onto the fridge, once we had redirected the air con outlet the fridge started working as normal, apparently f&p's work on air being convected around the cabinet of the fridge and air blowing on the fridge can effect the temperature of the convected air. hope this helps you or someone

Posted on Dec 10, 2007

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: FRIGIDAIRE FRS20ZRGD7 (SIDE BY SIDE) WARM FRIDGE/ COLD FREEZER HELP!

look open the freezer door pull the lower kick plate off look for a small little hole there its a mechanical timer model should be close to the wheel in that hole will be a plastic piece open the freezer door you will hear the fan running in the freezer take out the four or five screws on the lower panel where you keep seeing the frost and remove it you will see a silver honeycomb looking piece that's the evaporator on one of the tubes will be clipped a silver dome looking piece with two wires on it that's the defrost thermostat now turn the timer with a screwdriver that's the piece in the little hole slowly to your right till you hear a click and the fan stops in the freezer now as your turning it it will make a ratchet sound you want the click and the fan to stop look at your watch and note the time then wait about 5 minutes and look at the heater to see if its on if its all frosted up the frosted should look all watery if the heater is on then just let it run if not then reach up and turn the freezer control to the off position then un plug the two wires on the defrost thermostat and take the two wires that you unplugged the thermostat from and plug them back together and turn the freezer control back on and wait stay there and watch the heater come on let it defrost the evaporator if the heater comes on when you do that .that means the thermostat is bad if the heater comes on without you having to by pass it that means the timer is bad if you do all that and the heater does not come on then the heater element is bad now its going to get red like an oven and pop and sizzle but don't let it freak you out now if you had to by pass the thermostat and the timer cuts the compressor on before the frost is all clear just turn the timer around again till the fan cuts off and the heater will come back on if you by passed the thermostat then when all the frost is melted then reach up and turn the freezer control back off and reconnect the thermostat.Now after about 30 mins after turning it off the timer should cut back on if its not bad when you change the timer back out the two screws reach under the fridge and turn the timer and its shield till the screws are in the removal position when the timer is loose remove the shield and unplug the timer plug your new one back in then put the shield back on and back where it goes now id recommend changing both the timer and the thermostat as they fail pretty close together the stuff i described above is to make the unit defrost to save your food with out having to use your hair dryer also when all the frost is melted at he bottom of the evaporator on the right hand side is a hole in the cabinet that has to be clear of frost for the fridge to cool properly now any time during this defrost technique if you have a problem turning off the freezer cold control will turn off the defrost system1.gif too if i can be of help or you need to know something just reply to this post

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

skotkolr
  • 558 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge and Freezer losing cooling

thermostat control to deice the freezer is malfunctioning need a service tech to replace it so it doesn't keep the deicer on . Its exactly that, a warmer to deice the coils.

Posted on May 27, 2008

  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: temperature rising in fridge and freezer

Yes this could be the problem. I would need more information to believe differently.

Posted on Jul 04, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kenmore top freezer fridge does not cool but freezer works

Turned refrigerator off for 8 hours, let the frost melt and the fan in the freezer worked again. The compressor now only has a soft clunk when it goes off.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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The start relay is sticking or is getting a close signal from a wire that is shorted. This is easy to troubleshoot by pulling the relay out of its socket and interrogating the socket terminals with a volt/ohmmeter. If you reply with model and year, I can provide the troubleshooting procedure.

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Doesn't cool


Hi.

Most common problems with refrigerator are either caused by a defective defrost system or by defective compressor motor assembly.

Check if the coils at the back are frozen. In that case the problem is the defrost system. Even if coils are not visibly frozen, try doing a complete defrost and see if the fridge will restart cooling. You can follow the troubleshooting that I just wrote on this page.

If problem is not the defrost system, check if the compressor is starting. If the compressor is not starting at all or is humming and slow to start, then you may need to replace the compressor starter kit or the compressor itself. The starter kit comprises a capacitor and a relay connected directly to the motor. The motor is usually under warranty for many years (up to 12). Call manufacturer if you think that the problem is the motor.

If the motor instead works, stays always on, and defrost has just been performed manually, then there may be insufficient gas pressure. This usually happens with old appliance and requires a repair call.

Modern refrigerators may also deliver insufficient cooling because of a defective ventilation (damper) system, or because of defective temperature electronic control. The most common faults occurring with all refrigerators are still fixed troubleshooting defrost system and compressor starter kit.

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Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

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Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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heatman101

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2 yeaor old kenmore fridge not working, motor runs


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As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer2_bing.gif and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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heatman101

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The entire refrigerator is still under warranty. I would call an authorized repairman.

If you still want to do some troubleshooting: Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} . Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

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Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.

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