Question about Eureka Enviro Steamer 310 Stick Vacuum

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Steamer #410 has cord problem

The ele cord only works when you move the cord around at the unit and you have special star with pin screws so we can't check the wires ,I work at lowes and have sold this 410 steamer to my wife and she loves it ,she uses it on all our floor tiles she can move the cord at unit and it will heat up then stop again only to have to move the cord again.do I sent it back or can we fix it with this special screw driver or allan wranch thanks Larry Laughery

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U can send it back or u can fix it urself its a simple fix all u have to do is check the power cord going in u can cut about an inch n reattach it and it should work good luck

Posted on Nov 16, 2007

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How to get to wiring plug


If you're talking about the cord that you pull out from the reel located at the rear of the machine, you'll have to take the top cover off first. Usually two philips head screws located under rear exhaust cover and one maybe two near the front end. Once that is removed, there will be two more philips screws, one on each side of the top rear of the machine and one on the bottom. Remove all three of them, pull about a foot of cord off of the reel and get it to catch, the using the heel of your right hand, hit the very back of the machine, (the rubber bumper part) on the top with a motion pulling toward the back. This may take a couple of tries if you're not used to removing this part, but one or two swipes should eventually loosen the rear cover. Once it is loosened you may carefully pull it out of the back end of the machine and take off the two wire connections. This will free up the cordwinder assy. so you can take it to a spot where you have some room to work. Now lay the assembly on it's back and take the four screws, one from each corner of the rear cover, out and lay them aside. Thread the cord plug through the opening and wind the free cord back onto the reel, allowing the spring to pull it slowly out of your hand and then wrap the plug end around and around the reel till the spring is unwound, then you can remove the "C" clip from the center post, sometimes hidden under a cardboard washer. With the clip removed you can gently pull the cord reel up and off the post, carefully bringing the rewind spring up and off it's post as well. If you've tested the cord and are sure that it's your problem then you can cut the remainder of the cord from the reel and throw it away. The reel is easier to deal with without the cord on it. Turn the reel over so the back cover is exposed, there should be three screws that can be removed so you can take the connections loose from the posts inside and make ready for the new cord. Once you've attached the new cord and tied your strain relief knot, like the one you removed, you're ready to wrap the cord onto the reel and just reverse the procedure. When you get ready to put the loaded reel back into the cordwinder body, just before you put the cover on, wrap the plug end around the reel three times. This loads the spring so that it will pull the cord completely back into the unit. And it doesn't hurt to drop a spot of oil onto the top of the post for the spring.

Nov 11, 2013 | Electrolux C101 Bagged Canister Vacuum

1 Answer

Miele silver moon s558 powers up sometimes not others, very light use, all filters clean, will not power up with power head attched or not. Is there a fuse to change? Is there anything a home owner novice...


That's remarkably good news. You can almost certainly fix it for about twenty cents in about twenty minutes. First, open the main bag chamber, and remove the upper bag chamber lid. This can be achieved by gently prying back the tabs back by the hinges, and then sliding the whole thing upward. Next, you'll want to remove the exhaust filter and the two screws holding the control unit to the back of the vacuum. (The black part.) Lift up at the front of the control unit and it should lift away. This may make a terrifying snapping noise, don't worry about it. You didn't break it! Next you'll need to remove the screws that hold the main chassis onto the base. I believe there are roughly seven, in a perimeter around the chassis, if memory serves. Note that there are a couple up by the handle part. Once they're all removed, the whole thing should lift right off. Now, here's the actual cause of your problem. Over time, the cord reels in these guys start to wear out a little bit, and what happens is that the electrical contacts that keep power flowing through your reel start to move apart from each other. Locate the cord reel, which should be hanging out in the base area. Grab the white reel itself and wiggle it left and right. See all that play? So here's the fix: get a ziptie from an auto parts store or any place like that. Remove the screw holding the cord reel assembly into the machine and lift out the cord reel. When looking at the reel, you should be able to see the electrical leads that come out of the center of the wheel: one black, one white. On the OPPOSITE side of the reel from those wires, you're going to want to put the ziptie around that central axle. This will then take out all that slack you were feeling. Make sure you clip the end of the ziptie before you re-install your reel. Place the cord reel back in the body and then make sure you re-thread the cord through the hole in the back of the chassis. Place the chassis back on, replace the screws. Place the control unit back on, and replace the screws, snap the chassis lid back in, replace your bag and filter, and you should be in business. Please note that this works 99% of the time, but occasionally a reel will wear out to the point where this fix won't work. If it does, you do now know how to install it, so you shouldn't have to pay anyone else to do it for you. A new reel costs about $120, which is why I ALWAYS tried this fix first. Also of note: I wrote these instructions from memory, so if you're trucking along and you find that I've missed something somewhere, post another clarification request and I'll walk you through it. Good luck! -R

Sep 23, 2011 | Miele s558 Silver Moon Vacuum

3 Answers

How do I replace the power cord on an electrolux 8502A vacuum cleaner?


1 Unplug the vacuum and remove all accessories such as extensions and brushes. Open the vacuum's outer casing to get at the end of the power cord. Exactly how you will do this depends on the model of vacuum. Generally it simply involves the removal of two to three Phillips-head screws.
2 Follow the power cord to the two connections at the vacuum's motor. Unfasten any clips or holding bracket and disconnect the cord from the motor. Sometimes this can be accomplished by unscrewing two connection screws, other times the cord is soldered directly to the motor. If this is the case use wire cutters and cut the cord about 4 inches from the motor to give room for splicing on a new cord.
3 Insert the new power cord into the vacuum. Follow the exact same path as the old one. If there were any brackets or clips that held the old cord in place inside the vacuum or out use them on the new cord.
4 Tie a knot in the cord on the inside of the vacuum casing so that it will not accidentally be pulled out of the motor once it is in use.
5 Connect the new cord to the motor in the same fashion as the old one. With wire strippers take off about 1 inch of insulation from the new cord to expose the two wires. Either wrap them around the connection posts and re-screw, or twist the new cord wires around the 4-inch remnants of the old cord and seal all exposed wire and connections with electrical tape.
6 Replace the vacuum's casing in reverse order from how you removed it. Plug in the vacuum to test.

Sep 11, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Could I have a short in my cord? I can vacuum & then when I move the canister it shuts off, if I wiggle the cord it will turn back on. This last time, it just revs like a car trying to start & then...


Whit the vacume plugged in and turned on start where the cord goes in to it and hold the cord whith each hand and bend it slightly. Move up the cord and do the same if there is a brake in the cord the machine will loose power until you bend the section back. When you find the bad spot in the cord unplug the machine and carefully cut the outer insulation away from the wires that are in the middle. Cut the bad section of the cord and resplice the cord wires by stripping off the insulation about an inch of each wire and twist them together and tape each wire with electrical tape so the bare wire is not exposed. Be sure when you splice the wires you do not mix the colors up. Then wrapp electrical tape around the section that you repaired.

Mar 11, 2011 | Miele Red Star Bagged Canister Vacuum

19 Answers

The tray full light stays on even though the tray is empty.this prevent the foodsaver from operating.I have tried unplugging,recleaning the tray but nothing works


I had the save problem with my 3400 series.
The first time i was able to let it dry and it worked alright (48 hours).
The second time even this did not work.
If you remove the screws on the bottom of the unit. There are about 10 and pull it down, you will see the sealer assembly and a small circuit board in the middle.
Trace the wires from the drip tray, there are three of them, red white and brown, to the small white plastic JST connector on the small circuit board. Pull said connector gently to disconnect it.
The unit will function perfectly now, although it will no longer have a drip tray sensor of any sort it will function every time all the time.
All in all this took me about 10 minutes.
Thanks!

Sep 09, 2010 | Vacuums

1 Answer

When i put hose in port it will not turn on...all the other ports work except one


Open the door on the inlet port and look inside. You should see 2 small pins. These pins are spring loaded to make contact with the metal end of your hose when you plug it in. Two low voltage wires are screwed to the underside of these pins. The low voltage wires go all the way back to the low voltage switch/relay on your central vac power unit.
Sometimes one or both of these pins will just break so that they don't make contact with the end of your hose. If you see no pins or just one then you will have to replace the inlet cover.
If both pins are present; push down on them with your finger. If you feel resistance then your inlet is probably OK.
CAUTION: IF YOUR CENTRAL VAC INLETS HAVE A 110 VOLT CONNECTION, REMOVAL/REPLACEMENT OF YOUR INLET SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN.
Remove the two screws in the faceplate. Carefully slide the inlet cover out. Check the two screw on wiring connections. Make sure both wires are securely attached and that there are no breaks.
If neither of the above fixed your problem, you may have a broken or disconnected wire somewhere between this inlet and the low voltage witch at your power unit.

May 04, 2010 | Broan-NuTone CV353 Central Vacuum

2 Answers

Pull cord all the way out vacum doesn't start. Push the recoil switch for a second then it will start. Bad connection or new cord needed? Also how do you reinstall the coil? Thank you.


Greetings,
This definitely sound like a cord reel issue to me. This is really the only problem that I ever see on a Miele vacuum cleaner2_bing.gif. 9 times out of 10 the cord reel needs to be changed. If you purchase the cord from us, and it's not the problem you may return it up to 60 days later for a full refund, that's how confident I am that is what's wrong with your machine.

Ok, so you need to replace the cord reel on a Miele S514 Solaris, no problem! I'll attempt to try and walk you through this repair with a detailed explanation of it, and along with some pictures to help you. You'll first want to buy the new Miele S500 series cord reel. If you haven't already purchased one, here's a direct link to the exact cord that's needed for your S514:
Miele Cord Reel For All s500 Series #05240304

So once you have the cord reel, you'll need either a Phillips head screw driver for the older S514 models, or a T20 Torx Screwdriver for the newer S514 model vacuums. The picture below is actually of the Miele S518 Cat & Dog series, but for this repair the procedure and parts are identical to the S514. You'll need to remove the hose, wand, and power nozzle from the vacuum cleaner before you begin.

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The first thing you'll wand to do is open up the bag housing, and remove the vacuum bag, as well as the exhaust filter which may be either the Cloth Super Air Clean Filter, or the HEPA Filter cartridge which is blue in color. If you're using the Super Air Clean filter, remove the filter, and then remove the bracket that secures the filter in place as well. Simply pull straight up on the bracket and it will come out.

Once the bag and the filter have been removed, you'll need to take off the entire tool lid. While the vacuum cleaner is open so that you can see into the compartment where the bag just was, you need to pry two arms from the tool lid off of the main body housing. Simply put a screwdriver behind one of the blue arms, and pry inwards. Here's a picture of what this looks like;

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Once you have removed both of these clasps, the tool lid will pull straight upwards and off, leaving you with only the bottom part of the canister. This is how the vacuum cleaner should look now;


4e90a53.jpg
Now you'll need to remove the black speed control box from the canister. There is one screw in the front of the black speed control box that needs to be removed. After the screw has been removed, turn the vacuum cleaner around so that the back of the machine where the cord reel goes into the vacuum is now facing you. If you look where the black speed control box meets the bottom part of the canister, you can see two clips that you'll need to release before the variable speed control box can be removed. Simply put a screw driver and push in on the clip while lifting the black speed control box at the same time. Here's where the clips are located on the vacuum;


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Ok, now that the speed control box has been removed, it's time to separate the colored plastic from the base of the vacuum cleaner. There are 7 screws that need to be removed in order to get these housings separated. I have circled the location of each screw in the picture below;


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After removing all 7 screws, you can then simply pull upwards on the colored plastic housing, and remove the housing from the base of the vacuum cleaner so that the motor and cord reel are exposed. Once you have exposed the cord reel, you'll need to remove the internal wires (white wire is in the higher position, and to the left of the lower right side black wire), as well as the rubber hose part. The rubber hose part simply pulls off, just like the wire terminals do. After removing these parts, you'll need to remove one more screw with your screw driver. Here's the picture of which screw needs to be removed;


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After the final screw has been removed, you'll have to remove the rectangular shaped wire harness that sits at the top of the cord reel. Pay close attention to how this wire harness is correctly seated which will save some aggravation when putting the vacuum back together. Here's a picture of the wire harness that needs to be removed from the old cord reel;


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Once the wire harness has been completely removed from the old cord reel, you may simply pull up on the cord reel and remove it. The new cord reel will come completely assembled, with all the parts and components that your faulty cord reel had. You simply need to line up the screw hole on the new cord reel with the hole in the bottom of the base of the vacuum. When installing the new cord reel be very careful that you don't pinch any of the wires down by putting the cord reel on top of them. The wires have a specific place they go, and you'll be able to see the correct path for these wires when paying close attention. Also remember to install the rubber tube back onto the new cord reel as well. Once the new cord reel has been installed, and screwed down, pull the plug out a little ways, and guide the plug through the colored top housing first, then screw the 7 screws that hold the upper housing to the lower housing back into to secure these housings together.

That's about all there is to that repair! Please feel free to request a repair clarification if you have any questions about the repair that I can help you with, I'm always more then happy to help.

If this repair guide was helpful to you, please click the thumbs up icon in the bottom right part of this solution to rate it has helpful.

Thank you so much,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

Apr 15, 2010 | Miele S514 Solaris Bagged Canister Vacuum

1 Answer

My vacum is not powering up


Reason number 1 (not sure why Kirby Co. still has not fixed it) - improperly installed outer bag. You have to push the bag all the way to the unit so it presses the safety switch that is between exhaust and the vacuum shell

Reason 2 - defective cord - try wiggling it. If you know how to do it - try removing cord and supplying power directly to the unit using another cord or wire (ONLY if you know how to work with electricity.If you get zapped - do not blame me)

Reason 3 - bad power switch (instructions on how to replace it HERE)

Reason 4 (very unlikely) - motor KAPUT

Apr 07, 2009 | Kirby Ultimate G Bagged Upright Vacuum

2 Answers

Electrolux EL5020A VacuumCleaner - taking apart


these[ things] you talk about are called lock clips.with a little force and a small screwdriver they open be careful not to snap them, take your time as you move along; the lock clips will start to reveal themselves more openly again take your time ,after the casing is opened it should reveal the electrical cord.;before you start this procedure make sure the electrical cord is unpluged from the power supply hope this helps you.adrian

Feb 16, 2009 | Electrolux EL5020 Vacuum

1 Answer

Vacum


Hi there!

It would certainly help if you said which model it was.

I can only give generic help now, and do the best I can for you.

Most plastic products rely heavily on moulded catches that click into grooves upon assembly. The screws are fewer in number, and tend to be centred in the assembly, or spaced at intervals around the periphery. This is the "belt & braces" method which works quite well.

With the screws out, press around the seam line to see if it will pop open at one of the clips, then chase the gap around to all of the clips. You may have to insert a spacer as you go so they don't snap shut again.

There may be hidden fasteners under labels, star lock springs, or solvent welding to make more money for the manufacturer who insists you buy a new unit instead, but with a little care, and seeing which parts are not moving - and finding out why, then you should do it.

Worse case scenario, you crack the casing and have to glue it, saving the expense of a new motor. - Usually worth it.

If this helps you, Please rate as Fixya!.. Much apreciated thanks.

Jun 20, 2008 | Vacuums

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