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mikko harkonmaa Posted on Sep 23, 2015
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Subvoofer burns fuses and dosen`t work

Every time when I put power on, fuses blows...?

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Pieter Vleeshouwers

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  • Master 2,029 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2015
Pieter Vleeshouwers
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If there is a subwoofer with an end-amplifier inside there could be a capacitor problem by deformed or leaking capacitors but also look at the heatsink where are often mosfets placed or vintage conventional NPN / PNP transistors and they are in most times short -circuited between GDS gate drain source if its a mosfet or between base collector emitter if there is a transistor is used maybe when an active transistor output stage is used is it also handy to make a little test bank , to make a serial connection from mains over a 200 watt lamp. this in order to save fuses.

subvoofer burns fuses and dosen`t work - 25877625-kscs3earlhitqtfzpvr402k1-3-0.png Beware ! The accu is example for mains 120V and the meter for the subwooferamp powercable (not for the speakercable) its only an example for a connexion diagram how to spare the fuses in a test mode. if there is a fuse placed

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Amp fuse 30a keep blowing

You have possibly melted a couple of wires together along the radio circuit. Also the radio unit itself has 1 or more protection fuses actually inside the unit that have blown, usually at back of unit in little bay near the wire clusters.
Check your relays too, a blow out through jump starting can do all sorts of little burn-outs.
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Hi my adcom 5802 get right Chanal not working . I don't know why every time I put 2 fuse for that Chanel is burn st thing look like diot ... And after that 2 fuse burn too

If I can read you right you are saying that the device keeps blowing the fuse?

Fuses blow when there is an overload. As it is an amplifier we are dealing with the cause is more than likely a shorted output transistor or more than one, or whatever does the main amplification for the device. These devices are located on the main power amp board attached to a heat sink. If the amp has fuses for each channel then you only need to replace the devices on that channel, with the fuses blowing on it. The cause of shorted devices is often bad speaker wires or them touching.
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My ignition fuse kept blowing and I put a nail in it and it shorted out and caught fire and melted the place the fuse goes. Then I changed my fuse box but my dash lights and ignition still doesn't work....

mmm.. did the fuse start blowing after you did something or worked on the truck? sounds to me like there's a wire very well connected in the wrong place. I know it sounds funny, but what I mean is that a simple short would not set on fire, but instead eat the wire gradually with every spark. in order for it to catch on fire it needs to be bolted in the wrong place. the other wires can be restored after you find the wire that's causing the short.
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic 2 door bought the car found the legacy LA 960 in the trunk worked great for 1 year took on a 500 mile ride and woofer gave out. Took to a repair shop they said fuse of 20 amps...

1. Stop going to this shop.
A fuse that keeps blowing is a sign of a problem. You never replace a fuse with one of a higher amperage because the idea is the fuse is suppose to blow before the the wires melt and catch on fire. The reason it stopped working and the fuse didn't blow is probably be cause the wire did melt someplace and you are lucky the car didn't burn. If it did burn and the insurance company found the 40 amp fuse, they would probably have refused to pay.
The idea that a repair shop would do this tells me that they don't know what they are doing. Read this
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It dosen`t come on at all, just happened today there is power to dryer and to control switch.

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. If your dryer doesn't work at all, it could be because of problems with:
Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee
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you have a short circuit or burned out wires somewhere, could be anywhere.
Try disconnecting the alarm, taking the bulb out of the interior lights, and putting in the fuse, if it blows again you know that the alarm or interior lights are not at fault, if it stays good replace the bulb and if it blows theres your faulty circuit, if it stays good then the windows are at fault.
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No, you are ok. The fuse can blow some time.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/vitaliy_f406165329c75ede

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the machine is pulling to much power.check to see if it is on a 15 or 20 amp outlet. you said you replaced the fuse. the amp size should be on it. if it is a 15 amp fuse,plug the machine into a 20 amp circuit and see if the fuse blows then. it shouldn't since it wasn't blowing everytime on the 15 amp circuit, but never put a 20 amp fuse in a 15 amp socket! the fuse can handle the load[ no pun intended], but the electrical wire would burn not blowing the fuse, thus causing a fire.
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