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I have a kenmore series 90 dryer that will run but not heat up. I am running 240 i beleive to it. How do i know what the machine needs? 120/240?

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There will be a label somewhere, required by law, that gives that information. On my dryer its inside the door. On some its on the back.

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

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Kenmore dryer he4 elite dryer not heating model #95862402


using multi-meter need to check the heating element and the thermostats for continuity. you are getting a full 240 volts at the outlet right? if only 120 then u will be able to run the appliance but not the heating cycle.

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Hi,


On your model, you work on everything from the front.
If your dryer is getting 220/240 volts and just runs and no heat, then its either your thermal cut-off or element thats bad.
This link will guide you to how to take it apart to access your thermal cut-off thermostat on the heater housing and heater itself:

http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html#four

Please leave me comment, if you need further assistance
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I had an identical problem to yours this weekend with my Kenmore dryer. There were 2 problems.

1. Timer was broken. Does not advance to "OFF" position on timed dry, however it still works for auto-dry.

2. Thermal fuse was blown. Upon replacing, dryer heated up normally.

I believe when the timer broke, the dryer had kept running and blew the thermal fuse. On Sears' website, thermal fuse is $5.30, timer is roughly $80.

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Will run but has no heat. replaced element,thermastat and fuse


okay, you need to check to see if you are getting full voltage, see your dryer will run on 120 but if it is not getting hot, then you are losing 120.

see from left side of outlet to middle you should get 120
from right side to middle you should get 120
total voltage is 220-240 volts in order for dryer to heat

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1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the first thing you need to check is the wall receptacle for the proper input voltage. A reading across the two hot leads (left and right slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If this reading is incorrect, check your breaker panel. Some homes have the dryer circuit on two breakers, vice one single 220 breaker. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block in the back of the dryer. Plug the dryer back in and take the same voltage check at terminal block across the RED and BLACK wires. You should see 220-240 VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the wall receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal to the dryer.

NOTE: The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect is because the dryer drive motor only uses 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. So, if you are missing a portion of your input voltage, the dryer may exhibit the symptoms you have.

If your problem is with the dryer heating circuits, the following link explains what to look for and how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. The number one cause of dryer heat related problems are caused by poorly installed, kinked, or clogged dryer ventilation. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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How do you check voltage to dryer?


The first thing you should check on a electric dryer when it does not heat or run is the voltage at the cord.

If you do not have the correct voltage your dryer will not heat and may not even start.

The dryer needs 240 volts for the heater to work. It gets 240 volts by using two 120 volt lines. If one of these 120 volt lines is dead it will not heat. It may or may not still run as the dryer only needs 120 volts for the motor to run.

If you have one 120 volt line missing power and it is the same 120 volt line that runs to the motor then the dryer will not run or heat.

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The drive motors for the washer and dryer run off 120 VAC, but the heating circuits require 240 VAC in order to work. You will need to have a 240 VAC outlet installed in order for the appliance to run properly. There is no conversion for this. This is the way the appliance was made.

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fist make sure the fuses are good.. unit will run on 110 but not heat.. check connectores and cables or pigtail. it not.. then check heater coils and or thermostat...

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