After adding amp and sub, front and rear speakers wired to reciever will not play.

either your connectors need cleaning or maybe a break in the wiring. Is there on spot where both wires come together if so check there.If there is any plugs, pull them apart and clean them with contact cleaner

To enable the full potential of a SUB for Yamaha DSP A5 ,

you need to have

a separate amplifier for your Bose Acoustimass System.


The SUB out should be connected to an active subwoofer.

So you wanna run the subs off of the rear pre amp output rather than just the sub out correct? just get a splitter and run both the rear speakers and sub off of rear channel and front off of front channel. or run all four off of front and subs off rear output. this should give you the sound you want

Im sorry to tell you, but they are telling you the true. Unless you have the factory Radio that comes with those speaker they are useless to you unless your car is the same make as the one that those speaker came out of. Each speaker have four wires coming form them? If they have only two wires on them you can use them in series with other in your home theather system.

Hello russet327,

There should be no difference in the signal on the speakers themselves. It's simply an AC sine wave, varying in amplitude and frequency.

There might be a phase difference that could affect the sound of your subs, but most amps will allow you to adjust or at least select the proper phase. I'd recommend wiring the LOC the same as you have always done it. "Grabbing" a signal before it gets to the factory amp could be even more problematic because the signal will most likely be at too low of a level for your LOC, the wiring may be shielded, and the impedance will be an input impedance in the range of 20-25K ohms instead of the 4 ohms that the LOC is expecting.

Hope this helps.

I ran into a similar problem installing a sustem in a Mazda RX8. He had BOSE speakers which operate at a different range. We had to purchase the Rockford 3sixty.

What you have been told is correct, these proprietary systems are great for the manufacturer, but when they start to have issues (and they will) they leave you 2 options: pay through the nose to stay original or replace the amps with new ones....the upside of this is aftermarket amps are soooo mugh better than stock that it is lauhgable.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9

YES!! You used the blue wire to turn on factory amp (blue wire to GM pink) you NEED to use the Blue/White wire. That is the amp turn on. The blue wire goes dead when you play a CD or DVD because it's for a power antenna. So, Blue/White ok?

Enjoy,

Larry T
Winona Lake, IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

1990 Mazda 626 Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: N/A
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Black
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 4′
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2′
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Side Shelves
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green

I had the same problem and here's what fixed it. By default, I did not connect the blue/white striped remote wire to the harness. Apparently there is an amp somewhere in the vehicle I did not know about. After looking at the factory wiring and the aftermarket harness, I noticed that the remote wire was used and I connected it with the remote wire on the harness and everything came up and worked perfect.