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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Problem mowing my lawn.
I had the same problem and I already found those recommended solutions\ causes on the web:
1. The motor isn't on full throttle.
2. The blade is upside down.
3. The grass is too high when cutting it.
4. Overlap your cuts.
It helped my problem/ I hope it will help yours too!
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
I believe you mean to say a 'reel' mower. Normally and old fashoined push (non-engine powered) mower.
Most consumer reel mowers do not need to be sharpened. They do however have a knife bed that occasionally needs to be adjusted. It should have the thickness of a regular piece of notebook paper between the blades and the knife bed. (that is really VERY close) You can buy 'lapping compound' from an automotive parts store, and apply that to the bed knife, and then rotate the blades to provide a precise fit for all blades.
Commercial reel mowers, such as those used on golf course equipment are however sharpened normally once or twice a year. It requireds dismantling, and many courses send their blades to a central location for golf equipment, where they are placed on a computer operated sharpener for precision grinding. This cost several hundreds of dollars just for the grinding.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
First and foremost, remove the spark plug wire. Turn mower on it's side, find the right size socket for the bolt in center of blade that holds the blade. If it wont loosen spray with WD-40 and let soak a while, then try again. Once loosend remove old blade, clean bottom of deck where blade fastened, then replace new blade and thoroughly tighten as tight as possible without stripping. Return to upright position and allow to set for 45 minutes to allow oil to drain back into the crankcase to prevent damage. Then reattach spark plug wire to spark plug. Do not attempt to start until oil has had time to return to the crankcase. Do not forget to remove spark plug wire before you attempt to replace a blade.
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
This sounds like a faulty ground condition, the PTO clutch requires a ground provided by the chassis wiring harness to function and a ground for the ignition switch to kill fire to the coils. The other components work as they should because the voltage regulator, fuel shutoff solenoid and starting interlock system have their own grounds. The ignition switch in these mowers is a large round plastic switch not capable of grounding itself, it should have a black wire leading from the terminal marked "G" on the backside of the switch.
to diagnose a faulty ground you'll need a basic 12V test lamp:
Unplug the switch and and install a the test light clip on the positive terminal of the battery, probe the ground wire in the unplugged harness that corresponds with the "G" terminal only. If the ground is good the lamp in the test light will illuminate brightly, if poor or faulty the lamp will not light or be noticeably dim.
Further verification of a faulty ground or failed PTO switch can be tested at the PTO Clutch harness, turn the key on, engine NOT running, and pull the PTO Switch to the engage position, with the test light clipped onto the Negative Battery terminal or chassis, back probe the connected PTO clutch terminals. If the PTO switch is good and the ground is good then Only one terminal will illuminate the lamp, if both wires illuminate the lamp then the ground is faulty, if no lamp illumination then a loss of power is suspected, check the terminals on the PTO switch and Ignition switch for power.
Typical Ground termination locations are on the frame near the rear of the tractor frame, above the transmission, in the steering column area and near the solenoid, check for a loose or corroded eyelet terminal, broken wire, or a missing fastener in these areas.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
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