Question about Maytag SAV5710 Top Load Washer

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Transmission Dead, Rusty Water, Broken Seal and Loud Noises

All of the above items are wrong with my nearly three year washer, parts are covered by warranty, but labor prices are high. What's the likelyhood of this happening again and about how much time and money will it take to fix it?

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Re: Transmission Dead, Rusty Water, Broken Seal and Loud...

This has the notorious triple lip seal. This will happen again and again. Do yourself a favor and get a different machine. Labor will be from 1 hour for just the seal, to 2 hours if transmission too.

Posted on Nov 16, 2007

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My washer mad three loud thumps and then would not spin at all. It will pump the water out but will not spin. Do you think it is the belt. Thanks helyn

The belt might have slipped off the pulley. But when you mention that you heard loud thumps before it stopped spinning is a sign that something else might have gone wrong with your machine. With the washer turned off, turn the wash drum by hand and listen for any noises. It should turn quietly without any kind of thumping noises. Also look how the drum turns. It should turn smoothly and not wobble as it turns. If it wobbles or makes thumpiing noises, it means that the support arms are broken.

Reparing the support arms is an expensive repair, unless it is still under warranty, it not worth fixing. Get a few estimates before deciding to repair or replace it.

Feb 08, 2011 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Clothes left with grease smears

There are two real possibilities, both are in the washer. The first is
that the gear box seal is failing, and the second is that the fabric
softener dispenser needs to be dismantled and cleaned out.

"When the seal starts to fail, this oil floats up into the wash water
in the form of small black drops. The stains are almost impossible
to remove from clothing. Also, as the oil is leaking up, hot soapy
water is leaking down into the transmission, which will eventually
cause it to fail. As I recall, the seal wasn't difficult to replace,
but to get access to it I basically had to disassemble the whole
machine. The hardest part was pulling the agitator off the shaft - I
used a slide hammer puller. I'd start by pulling the agitator off and
see if you can access the transmission seal that way

Apr 15, 2008 | Frigidaire GLTR1670A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

MOdel 110.92579110 leaking water out bottom of

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.92579110


See the Sears site sub-components for the agitator, basket and tub. It's possible that one of the gaskets or seals has worn over time.

I'd also pull off the cabinet and check the hoses leading to and from the pump. It's also possible that the pump is leaking.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet.

The illustrations also show how to remove the transmission.


The black oil / fluid that you see is likely coming from the transmission.

Since it seems to be "spraying" around the inside of the cabinet, I'd assume that it is leaking from the top seal between the transmission and clutch.

See the following for a parts breakdown of Whirlpool top load direct drive washers.

If you look at page 15, you'll see a Seal, Gearcase Cover. It is possible that that is the cause of your transmission leak.

The rust on the bottom of the transmission may (hopefully) be simply caused by the water leak.

I'd remove the gearcase cover (8 bolts) in order to check the gearcase cover seal, and to check the oil level. The Whirlpool transmission takes about 15oz or 80-90 weight oil.



Oct 17, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Leaking washer

This is going to be the tub seal. Take the front off and check to see if the water is leaking right where the tub and the transmission meet and if so the seal is leaking. This also makes the washer noisy. This page should help

Sep 15, 2009 | Maytag LAT3600A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer will spin but not very fast

It is very likely that the transmission needs to be replaced/repaired.

Inside most top loading washer transmissions is a small part that lets the motor drive the transmission in either the agitation mode or the spin mode. When this part shifts back and forth into the position for wash or spin, it can get broken.

When it locks the transmission into the spin position, the motor and transmission can now spin the wash tub to help remove excess water from the clothes. When this lock breaks, the washer will still wash and agitate and the motor will still pump out the water in the washer, but without the fast spinning of the tub, clothes will not be damp dry enough to be put into the dryer. Sometimes the unit will spin a little, but not nearly enough to really remove water from the clothes, especially if you're doing towels and other heavy items, etc.

The part itself isn't much money, but the problem is that the repair isn't easy for even a good DIY'er to perform, as you have to remove the agitator, wash tub, tub seal boot, and the transmission from the cabinet just to get ready for the repair process.

IF you can even get the repair part for the broken transmission (difficult as most manufacturers only let authorized service dealers buy these sub-components these days), it will be VERY messy to disassemble the transmission and remove all the oil and broken metal pieces from the transmission lock part and then completely clean out the inside of the transmission housing replace the gear assembly and put in the new lock piece, plus add back new, clean appliance trans oil and a new end seal on the transmission housing.

When I first started out as a service tech, we used to rebuild the washer transmissions on used customer "trade-ins" when we had nothing else scheduled, so we could resell the used appliances and make a few bucks.

Bottom line is that for all the time, mess and expense you're going to have to go through, it is probably best to buy a new washer. Especially if your washer is more than 10 years old, since the tub is probably starting to get rust spots, etc.

Jul 12, 2009 | GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Loud spin cycle - leaks water

No boot on a top loader, the tub seal and bearing are gone, water leaked from the tub seal, rusted the bearing and quite possibly the milk stool and transmission. Check your warranty, the transmission may have a 5 year limited warranty, usually it will include the tub seal and bearing with the kit.

Jun 13, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MAV9501E Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Knocking noise during agitation cycle - GE WNSR2100T8WW

I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.

Dec 27, 2008 | GE WJSR2070B Top Load Washer

5 Answers


Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.

The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.

Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.

Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model.


May 19, 2008 | LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Belt burnout and transmission gone

It will need a seal and transmission. Expect one and a half to two hours labor. Best bet. Bite the bullet and get another washer as this will probably happen again.

Nov 15, 2007 | Maytag SAV5710 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Noisy spin cycle

Hey ****, what you are hearing is the spin bearing. Maytag redesigned the bearing kit on this washer, there must of been a lot of leaks causing the bearing to go bad. They put out a service flash...TDL-0060-B. New seal and bearing kit, part number12002470. You may want to contact Maytag on this for it could be covered. I know you have 5 years warranty on the transmission and If they change that, they have to use a new seal and bearing. back.

Oct 06, 2006 | Maytag SAV5710 Top Load Washer

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