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if your good with a multi- meter check out put from the unit to the circuit board if no power possible a burnt up winding --unit fried --if power to circuit possible bad board or short in distribution box
1) Adjust the speed sensor 2) Tight very well the connection from speed sensor. 3) Faulty Sensor speed 4) Faulty Main Motor measure for 115 VAC without load. 5) Main motor board faulty , test for 115 VAC,and oupput for +5Vdc. 6) See the transformer for 115 VAC,for primary voltage and secondary voltage. 7) See if some component such: resistors, capacitor, diode, or IC burn. 8) Lubricate the deck belt. 9) Adjust the tension for deck belt for lift 2-3" max. 10)error code e1 vs e2 in some mark is equal is different from some manufacturer. See the block diagram for your diagnostic, for strong resultant.
1) You must check the receptacle wall, for 115volts AC,60hz
2) If Not voltage 115 Vac, check breaker or fuse from the Panel( Main) or Sub-Panel for that circuit.
3) If there are 115 Vac, so proceed with the wires of the plugs, retigh conection and see if the contact of the plug is clean or oxide, ( clean with ethilic alcohol 100%) .
4) Check the Main button if there Voltage use the VOM( Voltimeter) , after check the push button Start , clean this .
5) If not work, check the relais and clean with ethilic alcohol 100% in the Board Controller, after check the Breaker.
6) If everything is o.k now proceed to Start the Motor.
7) In short proceed Step by Step with the logic for Troubleshooting.
Please reply is everything is o.k or you need more assistance, Sincerely . God bless you.
Bosch is not very good about putting manuals or other documentation online for older products, so I'll have to give you generic advice.
Some electric motors have optional voltage connections. If your motor has this feature, there will be a box or removable plate on the motor with 110 Volt and 220 Volt connections inside. You would need to replace the line cord with a 220 Volt cord having the correct plug for the location you plan to use the mixer, and connect the motor "hot" wire to the 220 V connection in the motor junction box instead of the 110 V connection (the neutral wire goes to the same neutral).
If there is no such option available on the motor, you would also have to replace the motor with a 220 Volt version. Check the labeling on the speed control (inside the mixer) to be sure it is rated for 240 VAC, and check the power label by the power cord. If the label gives a single range of input voltages spanning both 110 VAC and 220 VAC (e.g., "Input 97 V- 265 V") then you only need to change the plug. Unless the electrical parts are all rated for 240 VAC or higher, conversion is not safe.
Some products (especially desktop computers) have a recessed switch on the back that lets you select either 115 VAC or 230 VAC input power. If you have this on the mixer, all you have to do is use a small tool to push it to the other position.
An alternative is to get a 230 VAC - 115 VAC transformer or inverter rated for at least 800 Volt-Amps and wire it with a 230 Volt plug on the primary side and a 115 Volt socket on the secondary side; then you can just plug in your unmodified mixer to this. If you cannot find a box like this, you can buy a "control transformer" from an industrial equipment supplier and put it in a suitable metal box. I recommend including a power switch and a 4 Amp dual-element fuse or breaker on the primary side circuit; you don't want somebody burning up the transformer with a 1200 Watt microwave oven or griddle.
You should first start with converting the unit to run on 115 VAC if you can. We had a unit that went thru three ignitors, 2 selector boards, two main boards and a transformer in one summer in part because the electronics in that model are sensitive to spikes and spikes on a 230 circuit are worse than the same spikes would be wired for 115. Jandy was the source for that recommendation, not us. Anyway, consider changing the line voltage and thoroughly inspect your main board to be certain it is not damaged. Assuming the main PCB is ok your best bet with a new part should be low voltage. Since we converted the unit we were working on it has been trouble-free. John
On the back of your unit there is a label with input voltage. It may even be on the model number label. If the label is missing then and it has a 3 pronged plug like any normal power / orange extenstion cord for 115/ \120 VAC use then it is 115/120 VAC.. It is a rare occurance that any US microwave for household use is anything but 115 / 120 VAC.
You will need 12 vdc (battery or converter) for controls to work, and 115 VAC (hydro) for fan & compressor to work. With your fan obviously working, that tells me you have both already but compressor may not be kicking in. Do you hear a "moaning" sound or see lights dim when switched to cool?
http://geeksquad.fixya.com/ThreadView.aspx?prdid=0&thid=797869 Generic problem for all Vacuums Beam Central Vac Breaker Pops Posted by tinateggart1 on Jul 17, 2008 The breaker on our beam model 167 central vac popped while in use. Every time I try and restart it, it immediately pops again. What's the problem? Circuit board? Motor? Overheating? Hello, I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure. Chances are it is the relay switch on the inside of the Beam Central Vac, if it was a motor, it would not turn on @ all. If it was a circuit board, it may or may not be turned on, but if it will turn on and then pop your circuit breaker than it probably is the relay switch. Please, check with your local Beam vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or contact the Beam website or cust serv @ the phone number listed below. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions. http://www.beamvac.com/usa/Owner Support Customer Service 1-800-369-2326 Phone # Email: [email protected] Technical Support:[email protected] Thanks, Don the Vac Man Go Ahead. Use Us.
The Whirlpool Ultimate Care II cannot be outfitted for a standard 115 VAC wall outlet. Your dryer is a 220 VAC appliance. It needs to have it own dedicated 30 amp, 220 VAC circuit with the proper outlet and power cord installed. The dryer heating circuits and timer will not run on 115 VAC. I think you need to reconsider what you are about to do...
This is in an RV correct? Does it also have 12VDC hooked up to it?
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